mikeb
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posted on 5/12/11 at 03:15 PM |
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zx6r carb connections and setup
I've got the same carbs as these
zx6r carbs by mjb22001, on
Flickr
is the pipe centrally in the middle the main fuel inlet, where the guys thumb is? assuming no return pipe.
the black pipes that link between the carbs, are these the water pipes that aren't needed?
For a basic set up what do people recommend, will get it somewhere for a proper tune once she's on the road
1. Main jets drilled out ot 1.6-1.65mm
2. Air jets blocked off to improve idle
Anything else?
is it possible to get a new connector of the tps, and new screws for the tops to make them look more shiny?
[Edited on 5/12/11 by mikeb]
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whitestu
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posted on 5/12/11 at 03:53 PM |
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Yes, the fuel pipe is the one near the guy's thumb, with a little T piece coming off it. There is no return as this is not needed.
The small black pipes at the bottom are heaters and are not needed.
What engine are they going on?
Mine on a 2.0 Zetec have 1.6mm jets, which if anything is a bit on the rich side with a sausage filter. [safer to be rich rather than lean].
There is no air jet to block off - this applies to ZX9R carbs, not ZX6R ones.
I fine tuned the mixture on mine by altering the needle height as they are adjustable on ZX6R carbs.
Mine is just set up by me with a wideband meter on the road, which is fairly cheap and easy to do. I've thought of taking it somewhere but it is
as fast as anyone else's car I've come across with a standard Zetec motor, so have never got round to finding the time to do it.
They are really easy carbs to set up and work great.
Good luck.
Stu
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deezee
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posted on 5/12/11 at 03:54 PM |
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Where the thumbs is, that's the fuel inlet, there is no fuel return. The ZX6R manual lists that top pipe as a breather. I've left mine
open to atmosphere on my set up. I've got my 2 ltr RS2000 16v engine on 1.7mm jets around the middle notch on the needles. For a TPS connector
I got a 2nd hand loom off ebay for 99p! So just took my connector off that.
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deezee
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posted on 5/12/11 at 03:57 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by whitestu
The small black pipes at the bottom are heaters and are not needed.
Stu
Are you sure? They look a lot like the connector pipes between the float chambers, and not the electric heaters found on later models.
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whitestu
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posted on 5/12/11 at 03:59 PM |
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quote:
Are you sure? They look a lot like the connector pipes between the float chambers, and not the electric heaters found on later models.
I took them off mine and nothing leaks out!
Stu
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mikeb
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:01 PM |
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they have an inlet and outlet at one end of the carbs respectively and are very small dia.
What adjustement does the needle height give?
its a 1.8 CVH, to be later swapped with a zetec
[Edited on 5/12/11 by mikeb]
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mikeb
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:04 PM |
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whats the bigger pipe in the top right of the picture ?
[Edited on 5/12/11 by mikeb]
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whitestu
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:06 PM |
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The needle height richens or weakens the mixture by moving inside the main jet.
The needle is tapered and lifts as the engine vaccuum causes the diaphragm to move.
When fully down the needle blocks the main jet and when fully up it allows full fuel flow through the main jet.
Adjusting the static needle height thus alters the mixture in relation to load.
Lower = leaner and higher = richer.
The big pipe is a breather I think.
If you are swapping to a Zetec fairly soon wouldn't it be easier to stick with the CVH carb? That's what I did and was quite happy with
the performance.
Stu
[Edited on 5/12/11 by whitestu]
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mikeb
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:13 PM |
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The one I have is a crock o' I don't have all the bits and no clue where everythign goes plus it looks a bit rubbish!
I ran the engine with it just to check everything but other than that its good for the bin.
Plus I though it would need a bonnnet chop for the air filter which I don't want.
Bike carbs are already on and waiting and looking poo hot!
IMAG0330 by mjb22001, on Flickr
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whitestu
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:19 PM |
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Fair enough - that CVH looks very clean! Where is the manifold from?
I'd be inclined to start at 1.5mm and see how it goes. You can always go higher if needed.
The carbs are fairly tolerant of set up and will work with a wide range of settings. You need to have some way of checking the mixture isn't
dangerously lean though.
For the idle mixture screws screwing fully in and then out by 2.5 turns should be a good starting point. A decent balancer is needed as well to get
the carbs balanced properly.
Stu
[Edited on 5/12/11 by whitestu]
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mikeb
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:23 PM |
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Manifold is home made from a laser cut plate, used my rage saw to cut the compound angles looks neat for a home made.
Some rough edges on the inside, wondered if liquid metal stuff could be used to smooth them out (big overlap between the walls of the round 45 ID tube
and the flat of the oval inlet, worried it might drop out and shred the engine.
Gave the engine a coat of paint before fitting and did the rocker cover at the weekend, didn't go overboard but wanted it to look good until the
zetec goes in which could be ages!
Need to find where all the adjustment screws are for mixture etc.
IMAG0329 by mjb22001, on
Flickr
[Edited on 5/12/11 by mikeb]
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whitestu
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posted on 5/12/11 at 04:44 PM |
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quote:
Need to find where all the adjustment screws are for mixture etc.
Underneath the carbs - one on each pretty much directly under the butterfly. They are easily adjusted in situ with a small terminal screwdriver.
Stu
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