David Jenkins
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 12:33 PM |
|
|
X-flow rear crank oil seal
I've now got my x-flow out of the car while I case a persistent oil leak that's been getting steadily worse and worse (in a x-flow? Surely
not!)
It looks like it's the rear crank oil seal (not a rare problem in these things) - is it possible to replace this without dropping the sump?
It's been a very long time since I stripped & rebuilt this engine and I can't remember how it all fits together... needless to say,
the Haynes Book of Lies is no help whatsoever...
The reason I ask is that I already have an oil seal, but I don't have all the other gaskets I'd need if I had to take the whole sump off.
that would mean mail order, and some delay.
|
|
|
|
|
Alfa145
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:13 PM |
|
|
Just done the same on mine, although I did the sump at the same time as I wasnt sure which bit was leaking.
Personally I'd do both at the same time, worth the cost as there's nothing worse than putting the engine back in to find its leaking even
more......
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:27 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Alfa145
Just done the same on mine, although I did the sump at the same time as I wasnt sure which bit was leaking.
Personally I'd do both at the same time, worth the cost as there's nothing worse than putting the engine back in to find its leaking even
more......
I've just been in the garage cleaning everything up before I get stuck in - and I think I'm in the same situation.
You're right - might as well do the lot.
Now - someone here mentioned that they'd fitted a 'competition' sump gasket set that was far better than the usual bits of cork -
can anyone give me some pointers?
|
|
|
Alfa145
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:33 PM |
|
|
This is the one I fitted
http://www.burtonpower.com/competition-sump-gasket-set-711m-x-flow-fp713kc.html
I still used a sealant with the gaskets to make sure its oil tight. Also follow the recommended torque settings in Haynes. I was surprised how little
the sump bolts needed, which probably meant I overdid them originally which caused the leak.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:42 PM |
|
|
Maybe you can save me some time 
To do the bottom end, I believe I'll need
Sump gasket set (the competition one)
Rear oil seal (which I've got)
Real oil seal carrier gasket
Have I forgotten anything?
|
|
|
Alfa145
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:46 PM |
|
|
That all I think you'll need to do the sump and rear oil seal.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:49 PM |
|
|
Thanks!
Now it's ordering time...
|
|
|
Alfa145
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 01:57 PM |
|
|
It might be cheaper to buy a full bottom end gasket set than to get the crank seal and cover seal individually.
I used gaskets for classics on ebay for the bottom end set: FORD 'X-FLOW' - BOTTOM END GASKET SET - VEH 750 | eBay
FORD X-FLOW CONVERSION SET
and bought the competition sump gasket separately from burton.
Plus that gives you a few other gaskets in case you notice any dodgy looking leaks coming from oil pump, fuel pump, etc...
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
Too late - already ordered!
(and I forgot to add a new set of exhaust gaskets...  ... not the end of the world, I can get them locally).
|
|
|
Westy1994
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 05:34 PM |
|
|
It may have been me that suggested the use of the Burtons Comp gasket, I did fit one recently. To date it is fine, NO leaks, BUT, when it arrived the
rear 'rubber' section was far too short, by about an inch. A call to burtons soon had this sorted and other one was in the post the next
day. I think whoever made up the kit threw in an odd seal from some other engine?.
However I now do have a small weep from the front timing cover seal, not bad enough to warrant removal at this stage, but will need changing for next
year.
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 16/8/12 at 05:46 PM |
|
|
I used a competition sump gasket when I originally fitted my shortened sump and I reused the same gasket when I rebuilt the engine . No leaks to date
|
|
|
.jpg)
