dave_424
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 07:50 PM |
|
|
Adjustable cam gears needed with cylinder base spacer?
Hi, I am looking at adding a 1.6mm cylinder (Possibly another 0.3mm gasket) to my zx9 c1 engine to drop compression for my turbo.
I know that increasing the distance from the cam sprockets to the crank sprockets will advance my timing but will this have a huge effect? The engine
is pretty well used so I bet the cam chain is already stretched which would work in my favour.
Just wondering if I need to fork out some cash for some adjustable cam sprockets, or can the pressed on ones be pressed off, then pressed back on in a
retarded position (I have tools that can set this position)
Thanks
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
BaileyPerformance
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 08:00 PM |
|
|
Just out of interest why do you need to drop the CR? Unless you are aiming for massive power running a turbo with NA CR ratios is possible with
careful mapping.
Save yourself a load of hassle!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 08:10 PM |
|
|
I am the person who has been emailing you about my turbo zx9 engine in an autograss frame the I am currently turbocharging and running on megasquirt
(got my megasquirt BTW)
I'm going to come to you for the mapping
I guess I could save myself the hassle, run around 6psi wastegate pressure which should see me to the 160-170whp from 130whp.
How far do you think I can go with boost on stock compression (11.5:1) and completely stock internals
I already have a 1.6mm cylinder spacer, just managed to get myself a set of Wiseco forged pistons for a very good price but the cylinders will have to
be bored to 923cc for the pistons. Might as well mess around with putting in the cylinder spacer in when I get the bores machined.
Dave
|
|
|
BaileyPerformance
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 08:18 PM |
|
|
:-) i remember!
You could run 8-10PSI no problem assuming you have a good intercooler and only use 97/98/99RON fuel. You would probably see 200BHP. You would also
need to change the plugs to 10's (think they are 8s now?)
If you have a set of forged pistons you MAYBE able to get them machined to lower CR, all depends on the crown thickness (how much meat in the top of
the piston. The last thing you want is any sort of space plate.
What turbo have you got? - if you have already told me i cant remember! ;-0
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 08:40 PM |
|
|
I would like to run on either bog standard pump gas or super unleaded, this is a rag around the fields buggy so don't really want to be shelling
out for fuel.
I have an intercooler, roughly 400mmx300mmx50mm, could also add water/meth injection at a later date to turn up the boost.
Pistons,rings,pins only cost me £50 from a hardly run bike, so depending on how much meat there is on the piston, I could get them machined down like
you suggest.
Got a TD04HL-13T supposed to be around 360-380CFM. It's going to be slightly restrictive in the top end but it is what it is, can always go up
to a 16t or 19t for more power.
Dave
|
|
|
BaileyPerformance
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 09:14 PM |
|
|
97RON is super unleaded as found in most garages, 98 "optimax" id shells own super version, 99 is tescos so all pump petrol.
you will always need good fuel for a turbo engine.
Water injection is a good idea, keep the inlet temp down will help power and add a safty margin.
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 10:22 PM |
|
|
Fair enough, shall be run on super unleaded.
Anyone around the shropshire/herefordshire/powys that does engine machining? I know a guy who machines cosworth engines but not sure if he does
customer work.
Dave
|
|
|
Bare
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 10:38 PM |
|
|
"Well used" and the added loadings of a turbo are Not a good combo.
Perhaps a competent rebuild first... or it may burst ..sooner rather than later.
|
|
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 10:44 PM |
|
|
Well, I say well used but I only know the history of the engine since I have had it, it's has a good amount of abuse but that's what it is
going to have to live through, it's not really cost effective for me to do any kind of rebuild, I can find a replacement motor for the same cost
as a set of bearings and a gasket kit.
If it lasts more than 2 years with being driven for a few hours every couple of months then it's served me well.
Dave
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 25/3/13 at 11:21 PM |
|
|
Price of old bike engines, it's not worth the gaskets taking apart, my unknown blade engine has been pushing 200bhp at 7psi for a couple of
years, it gets driven hard at the track.
I just change the oil each time I use it, the biggest cost was the lock up clutch, this cost more than the engine 
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 26/3/13 at 08:07 AM |
|
|
An option is to have offset woodruf keys made up if you cam chain sprockets are located with them
You need to do careful calculations but woodruf keys will be much cheaper than 2 vernier sprockets
[Edited on 26/3/13 by snapper]
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
