I HAVE FINALLY GOT MY CAR RUNNING!! soooo happy...........although it's making a few funny noises and as I'm new to the engine
rebuilding I'm surprised I have got this far!
The noises that I hear (hopefully can hear them on the video as well) are a slight rattly noise sort of high pitched coming from the front of the
engine area. Sounds sort of like a pulley is loose or something maybe wrong with the cam setup?
Second noise is coming from the distributor when I turn it to get lower revs it starts ticking??? no idea could be a "blonde" moment?
Other than those two problems, is there anything else you can see or hear that could be wrong? Dont mention the copious amounts of oil and water on
the floor - forgot to put the dip stick in and it blow some oil out
I have uploaded a video to Youtube
Hope you can help or at least settle my mind
Cheers in advance guys!
Matt
Edit - Just uploaded the video so it may take a few minutes to sort its self out.
quote:Originally posted by adithorp
Can't really tell what the noise is(I never can from video) but why are you using the ignition timing to adjust the idle?
You need to set the timing then adjust the idle with the carbs.
That was the first time I have turned it on since the engine was in bits, I was just getting it going and setting the ignition timing when I heard the
noise so thought I would get a quick vid of it.
The noise is roughly 14 seconds in would be a good example of it, like a clicking sort of noise :S
quote:Originally posted by MikeRJ
Have you checked that the crank and cam pulleys are tight?
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posted on 9/4/14 at 10:33 PM
Probably something to do with the single port vacuum take off on No1 cylinder and running twin 40/45's. Single port vacuum take off is NEVER a
good idea when running DCOE's as the vacuum pulses from one cylinder instead of getting a balance across all 4 cylinders. IF the vacuum goes to
the dizzy then I recommend taking it off and blocking the take off on the manifold. Then get a vacuum-less distributor when funds permit.
HTH's
JGG
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
could be a "blonde" moment?
Good to see it's getting along. My steering went in today, rear upright back from the powdercoaters tomorrow and it'll be on all four
wheels, trundling up the lane. It'll be ready at the same time as yours hopefully!
quote:Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Probably something to do with the single port vacuum take off on No1 cylinder and running twin 40/45's. Single port vacuum take off is NEVER a
good idea when running DCOE's as the vacuum pulses from one cylinder instead of getting a balance across all 4 cylinders. IF the vacuum goes to
the dizzy then I recommend taking it off and blocking the take off on the manifold. Then get a vacuum-less distributor when funds permit.
well hopefully that is one problem sorted how about the slight tapping/clicking/rattle, have you got any ideas what that could be?
And good to hear James, although your car should have been done months ago!!! I'm coming back for Easter so will have to pop up and see how it
is going!
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posted on 10/4/14 at 10:12 AM
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
quote:Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Probably something to do with the single port vacuum take off on No1 cylinder and running twin 40/45's. Single port vacuum take off is NEVER a
good idea when running DCOE's as the vacuum pulses from one cylinder instead of getting a balance across all 4 cylinders. IF the vacuum goes to
the dizzy then I recommend taking it off and blocking the take off on the manifold. Then get a vacuum-less distributor when funds permit.
well hopefully that is one problem sorted how about the slight tapping/clicking/rattle, have you got any ideas what that could be?
And good to hear James, although your car should have been done months ago!!! I'm coming back for Easter so will have to pop up and see how it
is going!
Matt
The tapping could be the what-ever is on the end of the vacuum tube going a bit mental with the pulse. Clamp the tube off to start with and see if it
stops it. Simples snick.
[Edited on 10/4/14 by jollygreengiant]
[Edited on 10/4/14 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
quote:Originally posted by jollygreengiant
The tapping could be the water ever is on the end of the vacuum tube going a bit mental with the pulse. Clamp the tube off to start with and see if it
stops it. Simples snick.
Simple indeed, I didn't even think that could be the culprit (hope it is )! In response to your first post regarding the vacuum advance and
getting a dizzy without one. How expensive would this be, I have had a quick look while at work and have come up blank. Could I get something like a
megajolt to do the ignition? My understanding of the vacuum was to improve flue efficiency when the throttle is partially open such as a long motorway
journey or something so would the only downside of running a dizzy with no vacuum be less flue efficiency or will i also loose performance?
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posted on 10/4/14 at 10:35 AM
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
quote:Originally posted by jollygreengiant
The tapping could be the water ever is on the end of the vacuum tube going a bit mental with the pulse. Clamp the tube off to start with and see if it
stops it. Simples snick.
Simple indeed, I didn't even think that could be the culprit (hope it is )! In response to your first post regarding the vacuum advance and
getting a dizzy without one. How expensive would this be, I have had a quick look while at work and have come up blank. Could I get something like a
megajolt to do the ignition? My understanding of the vacuum was to improve flue efficiency when the throttle is partially open such as a long motorway
journey or something so would the only downside of running a dizzy with no vacuum be less flue efficiency or will i also loose performance?
Thanks a lot for your reply
Matt
Hey come on now, be SERIOUS, you've fitted DCOE's, WHAT fuel economy.
Fuel economy only comes with DCOE's if you don't move the throttle pedal, to change speed leave the throttle buried and select an
appropriate gear.
Water ever in original post should have read WHAT-EVER, I blame it on me being tired and I'm orf to bed now, Night shift finished.
[Edited on 10/4/14 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
quote:Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Should have read WHAT-EVER, I blame it on me being tired and I'm orf to bed now, Night shift finished.
[Edited on 10/4/14 by jollygreengiant]
Don't worry I got that! I'm quite a fluent speaker in sleep talk I just didn't connect the noises with the parts in the vaccum
advance bit on the dizzy. Just assumed it was coming from the engine - which it might be if it doesn't work. I will have to go down tonight to
investigate
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posted on 10/4/14 at 11:22 AM
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
In response to your first post regarding the vacuum advance and getting a dizzy without one. How expensive would this be, I have had a quick look
while at work and have come up blank.
try H&H ignition - phone them, they are really helpful guys and will build you a dizzy to any spec you like (including electronic ones with
modern coils) and they are normally at the stoneleigh show too http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/
modified dizzys are normally £150 - £300 depending on the spec
(prices from burtons)
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
Could I get something like a megajolt to do the ignition?
yes, i'll cost between £150 (sourcing your own donor bits) and £250 (buying complete kit) to get all the bits and fit it to a pinto
megajolt also gives big powerful spark from the modern coil pack, lets you tune it easily with your laptop and can be used with most engines which is
ideal if you fancy a swap to a zetec or something at a later date
the same is true for the alternatives systems like nodiz, but so far they seem to be a bit more expensive overall, but you don't need the donor
bits so take your pick.....
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
My understanding of the vacuum was to improve flue efficiency when the throttle is partially open such as a long motorway journey or something so
would the only downside of running a dizzy with no vacuum be less flue efficiency or will i also loose performance?
if you tune the dizzy to suit you won't loose top end performance, but you will miss out on a little of the drivability/throttle response and
quite a lot of fuel economy - but as above your fighting a losing battle with fuel economy and DOCE's anyway....
you can (with a bit of fiddling) run a vac line from each cylinder into a small chamber to combine them and even out the pulses then take a line from
this to the dizzy - its also what folk do when they want to use a MAP sensor for electronic ignition instead of the TPS
Hmm, well I'm all but nearly spent out at the moment on the car, is it possible to run fine without using a vacuum on the normal dizzy just
block it off? - If I do what do I loose and if so how much?
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posted on 10/4/14 at 12:12 PM
quote:Originally posted by MP3C
Hmm, well I'm all but nearly spent out at the moment on the car, is it possible to run fine without using a vacuum on the normal dizzy just
block it off? - If I do what do I loose and if so how much?
it will work with it blocked off - but I can't tell you how much you loose compared to a modified one thats be re-tuned to run without the
vac. advance
connecting to all 4 cylinders is your best locost bet
soooo happy...........although it's making a few funny noises and as I'm new to the engine
rebuilding I'm surprised I have got this far! 
