02GF74
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posted on 10/12/16 at 11:09 AM |
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hairline split in radiator - can it be fixed
Have found a 1 cm long hairline split in radiator, between water inlet and oil coolet inley. It is plastic radiator, volvo 850.
Can it be fixed, if so how?
I realise the temperature cyle is a lot, 100 c, as well as being under pressure which is not in my favour.
Clean and dry area, some epoxy resin (or would pu be better?)and maybe a small patch on top, or am i dreaming?
Replacing radiator is huge task.
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britishtrident
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posted on 10/12/16 at 11:13 AM |
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Short term fix at best
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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02GF74
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posted on 10/12/16 at 12:01 PM |
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Oh i realise that, if it lasts until spring when days get wamer and longer thatll
Do.
So epixy or pu type, im thinking pu, got some bostik strong stuff i think better as it is flexible and says for plastic on the tube
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mcramsay
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posted on 10/12/16 at 01:03 PM |
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I would take the hit and change the radiator. The crack is only going to get worse no matter what you put over it. And Sod's law says that it
will fail when you are in the middle of nowhere. Or it will cause more damage. If it's cracked the cooling system won't pressurise, too
much risk of overheating in my view.
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pewe
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posted on 10/12/16 at 01:06 PM |
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I reckon if you score it heavily with a Stanley knife and then apply some thin ali mesh held in place by a generous amount of JBWeld it should be
OK.
However do you really want/can you afford to risk your pride and joy to at best a temporary fix ^^?
As you know the water temp guage will only tell you the temp of the water that's in the system not if there's water in the
system.
Fleabay shows rads at c.£75 - worth the gamble not spending that amount?
Cheers, Pewe10
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Smoking Frog
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posted on 10/12/16 at 02:05 PM |
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Had the same problem and used JBWeld as a temporary fix. Lasted over ten years, just luck I guess, but for piece of mind I'd fit a new rad as I
would never trust it over a long journey.
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craig1410
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posted on 10/12/16 at 03:31 PM |
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If you do decide to repair it then I'd suggest drilling the ends of the crack (2mm maybe) to stop the crack spreading and using those holes to
screw in small self tappers to secure whatever you use on top to patch it, assuming a patch is possible here. Choice of adhesive and surface
preparation is crucial as you want adhesive with good bond but a bit of give and ideally similar thermal expansion to the rest of the plastic.
Best bet is obviously to replace the radiator but I would be tempted to repair it.
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r1_pete
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posted on 10/12/16 at 04:27 PM |
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How about solvent weld used for plastic pipe, if you have some cellulose thinner wipe a little on the rad plastic, if you get black on the cloth and
the surface of the plastic is affected, solvent weld will seal it if worked well into the split.
Failing that how about the soldering iron trick?
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luke2152
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posted on 10/12/16 at 09:40 PM |
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+1 for JB weld. I put a temp sensor in a thermostat housing with a hole too big (like m10 sensor in m14 hole or something like that) with JB weld to
fill the gap as a temp fix and its still holding years later taking the full heat and pressure of the cooling system.
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Jon Ison
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posted on 10/12/16 at 09:55 PM |
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Always carried body filler for temporary repairs in my grass track days, lasts for years.
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02GF74
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posted on 10/12/16 at 10:35 PM |
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Thanks for advice, warnings etc.
I know its a bodge but the tiny dribble has been there a while and there is coolant level sensor. Initially i thought hose was leaking but after
cutting off 2 cm off it which didnt fix it, i came to conclusion radiator was holed, sadly removing hose and having a closer look and proding i found
the crack (as the bishop said to the actress)
Using bostik sticky pu stuff with small ali plate for now but will get a tube of jbweld for repair mk2.
Worst case ill replace rad over the post xmas - pre new yr period.
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