AntonUK
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posted on 1/7/18 at 03:50 PM |
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Fuel Pump Issue?
Attended a trackday at Llandow yesterday, traveled Friday afternoon and camped locally until this morning.
The traffic on Friday was aweful, and while water temps were stable at 90-100 ish in traffic twice after a significant delay the engine cut out. Both
times I managed to roll to the hard shoulder and both times the car re-started with no issues immediately. I didn't think much of it and though
perhaps the fuel rail was getting too warm as it felt like i was running out of fuel.
Anyhow, morning sessions at Llandow were great, but during the afternoon, the engine seemed to be holding back, almost very slightly missing when
giving it full throttle. The first 10mins of the session were fine, after that it got progressively worse until i pulled off to the pits for a
cooldown. After a quick break, and returning to the track same happened.
Traveling home today, it has got worse and worse. First 30min were fine then I could feel it loosing power when the engine was under load
(hills/overtakes) again a feeling of fuel loss. When the loss is felt the AFR goes lean. Limped it home, by the time I was within 10miles of home it
would actually cut out every few mins.
Each time it cuts out it will immediately restart no problem only for it to return again a little while later.
My thought are fuel pump related, but I wonder if any of you clever lot might cast any thoughts too?
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owelly
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posted on 1/7/18 at 04:06 PM |
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Pump, hoses collapsing, filter blocked, drawing in air somewhere, breather/vent blocked....
[Edited on 1/7/18 by owelly]
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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gremlin1234
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posted on 1/7/18 at 04:10 PM |
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almost classic symptoms of vapour lock
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock
also check fuel cap breather
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40inches
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posted on 1/7/18 at 04:51 PM |
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Vapour lock? Possibly fuel boiling in tank when level is low, a couple of gallons of cold fuel would solve that problem.
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AntonUK
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posted on 1/7/18 at 07:08 PM |
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Thanks all.
Whipped the pump out this afternoon, the gauze a the end inlet to the pump inlet was quite frankly horrid, clogged with some kind of sand type
material. Ive swapped the gauze and the pump and fingers crossed that will solve it.
I wish I has realised prior to going.
Interesting reading about the vapor lock. how would you reduce risk of this?
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gremlin1234
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posted on 1/7/18 at 09:06 PM |
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quote: Interesting reading about the vapor lock. how would you reduce risk of this?
put the hi pressure pump in the tank
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02GF74
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posted on 1/7/18 at 09:27 PM |
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Symptoms of a block fuel filter.
Buy a few transparent plastic ones, cheap and easy to replace.
Had the same on my land rover, removed the metal filter from facet fuel pump, tap it on a wooden surface and all sorts of sand like stuff came out. I
guess the landie, ex mod, was used in a desert campaign. Luckily the tanks have drain plugs so flushed it out a few times with petrol.
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AntonUK
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posted on 2/7/18 at 06:35 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote: Interesting reading about the vapor lock. how would you reduce risk of this?
put the hi pressure pump in the tank
It already has the the pump in the tank.
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AntonUK
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posted on 2/7/18 at 06:36 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
Symptoms of a block fuel filter.
Buy a few transparent plastic ones, cheap and easy to replace.
Had the same on my land rover, removed the metal filter from facet fuel pump, tap it on a wooden surface and all sorts of sand like stuff came out. I
guess the landie, ex mod, was used in a desert campaign. Luckily the tanks have drain plugs so flushed it out a few times with petrol.
I was always under the impression that the cheap plastic ones were for carbs. I'm currently using random metal canister one that was selected
for size/hose fittings from a tintop. Filter was new about a month or so ago and did a 500mile goodwood trip ok.
[Edited on 2/7/18 by AntonUK]
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Ugg10
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posted on 2/7/18 at 08:32 AM |
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In terms of filters the plastic ones are fine for between the tank and the pump as this is under very low pressure (pretty ,much atmospheric) and I
would always put one here as any contamination will probably occur (sucking up crud from the bottom of the tank) here and it will prolong the life of
the pump, between pump and engine then for carbs the plastic ones are OK but you will need metal ones for injections if you need one at all.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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AntonUK
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posted on 2/7/18 at 10:28 PM |
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All fixed, replaced the pump and the pickup gauze and its now running well again. Noticeably quicker too.
Thanks for the responses. For info anyone searching in the future I'm running a zetec 1.8 on ITB's supplied from an Land Rover - ESR3926
in tank pump.
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