Lotusmark2
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posted on 21/1/05 at 04:24 PM |
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A series engine
Anyone know about the "A series" engine, what sort of BHP and weight can you run with them without going ott on costs.
Got the Vizard book coming but thought I would see what people had to say.
Mark
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britishtrident
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posted on 21/1/05 at 04:46 PM |
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Depends on how much you rev it ---- and how much power you want and what base engine you use. My experience with the normal cooking 1275Gt engine
was all bad -- they blew head gaskets, burn't valves and I saw more than a few with premature piston ring problems. In the Marina although the
spec was similar. it was more reliable but still blew head gaskets.
The 1275 MG and Cooper S seem not to have head gasket problems to the same extent --- they use a different head with an extra stud which strangely
was no where near where the gaskets blew.
The 998 and 1098 engines were much more reliable ---- the 1098 MG Midget engines are very strong.
The word in MG circles is If building an A series engines these days the trick is not go down the old tunning routes used in the 60s and 70s but to
gety hold of an MG Metro engine A+ as the head carb an manifolds produce a nice powerfull reliable engine. The A plus head is apparently also less
prone to gasket problems.
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Lotusmark2
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posted on 21/1/05 at 05:40 PM |
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What are the differences between the A and A+?
Always fancied a metro turbo engine but they are getting harder to find these days.
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NigeEss
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posted on 21/1/05 at 06:31 PM |
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The A+ is a stronger casting identifiable by extra ribbing on the outside of the block.
If the compression is kept below 10:1 there shouldn't be gasket probs.
A friend of mine rallies a mini with an A+ bored to 1380cc, Piper 286 cam, twin 1 1/2 SU's, stage 3 head and it's giving 90bhp at the
wheels with no reliability issues at all. Happily spins to 7000rpm too !
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Peteff
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posted on 21/1/05 at 06:40 PM |
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Also
A series had a bypass hose on the head which was a ballache if it went on the mini. The A+ has it built into the head. Biggest one I've actually
seen was taken out to 1430cc and went like stink.
[Edited on 21/1/05 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Spyderman
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posted on 21/1/05 at 08:12 PM |
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When you start tuning A-series engines you also need to upgrade the Transfer gears (if keeping gearbox under engine) and the clutch. These will shred
otherwise with predictable regularity.
I had a tuned Turbo motor pushing out over 100 horses in my Metro and got fed up of replacing clutches and transfer gears.
I never had any other problems with the engine, other than heatsoak. Biggest bugbear with tuning the turbo engine is it becomes very peaky. All the
power came in a lump which is probably why it shreded clutches and transfers.
Make sure you go for the A+ as they are stronger. Make sure the case is good around the mains and thrust washer faces. These are commen wear
points.
Terry
Spyderman
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Lotusmark2
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posted on 21/1/05 at 08:37 PM |
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I know there is the bike engine option but is there any other high performance small fwd (pref gearbox under slung) unit that springs to anyones mind
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andyps
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posted on 21/1/05 at 10:20 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Lotusmark2
I know there is the bike engine option but is there any other high performance small fwd (pref gearbox under slung) unit that springs to anyones mind
I may be wrong, but think the Peugeot 205 had a gearbox in the sump.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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white130d
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posted on 22/1/05 at 01:01 AM |
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A Series
I am using a 1275 A series from a 69 ish midget, along with the transmission and radiator. And the steering rack. I am using a fast road cam and a
40 DCOE weber with mild head work and +.040 pistons. I am guessing about 90 flywheel horsepower. In the 60's the Series 2 L7 had the 998 A
series with the twin 1.25 SU ( the L7 A (america). These engines are stout and pretty tune-able. All the stuff that fits the upper end of a mini
will work. BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.
I think it is a good vintage choice of engine, but ya can't beat the ricer for reliability and hp/ci.
D.
[Edited on 22/1/05 by white130d]
"There's only 2 things that money can't buy, and that's true love and home grown tomatos" Guy Clark
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locogeoff
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posted on 22/1/05 at 03:25 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by white130d
BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.
quote:
Are you sure about that? I was under the impression that it could be done with Marina/Ital bits to convert it to longitudinal, but not sure.
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Peteff
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posted on 22/1/05 at 09:24 AM |
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It needs the crank from an inline engine so it's not really a viable proposition unless you have a Marina one lying around with a good crank and
a knackered block. Unlikely as they are not exactly plentiful these days.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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MikeRJ
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posted on 22/1/05 at 11:11 AM |
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The Maestro/Montego had the 1275 A+ mated to a 5 speed box. I'm fairly sure this used the longitudinal crank rather than the transverse one
with the taper for the flywheel.
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britishtrident
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posted on 22/1/05 at 11:54 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by white130d
I am using a 1275 A series from a 69 ish midget, along with the transmission and radiator. And the steering rack. I am using a fast road cam and a
40 DCOE weber with mild head work and +.040 pistons. I am guessing about 90 flywheel horsepower. In the 60's the Series 2 L7 had the 998 A
series with the twin 1.25 SU ( the L7 A (america). These engines are stout and pretty tune-able. All the stuff that fits the upper end of a mini
will work. BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.
I think it is a good vintage choice of engine, but ya can't beat the ricer for reliability and hp/ci.
D.
[Edited on 22/1/05 by white130d]
1275 ain't exactly reliable if revved and the BHP didn't set the heather on fire even in the 60s and 70s --- a full race 998cc Imp engine
made about the same or more BHP as a full race 1293 S engine and was more reliable.
The trick with the 1275 is concentrate on what it is good at low and medium speed torque.
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MikeR
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posted on 22/1/05 at 03:25 PM |
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just to post some useless trivial........ the maestro / montego a+ gearbox was made by VW.................. and bl**dy nice it was too! It bolted on
the end of the engine like most (all) modern cars now so i would guess the crank is "in line".
(dad had a maestro before you wonder)
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britishtrident
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posted on 22/1/05 at 05:09 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
The Maestro/Montego had the 1275 A+ mated to a 5 speed box. I'm fairly sure this used the longitudinal crank rather than the transverse one
with the taper for the flywheel.
The Ital 1.3 was supposed to be an A+ but was only partly to A+ spec -- not sure of the exact differences.
The Mini/Metro engine can be converted to RWD with a change of crank and I seem to remember one of the main bearing caps.
Of course you also need all the other RWD bits.
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locogeoff
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posted on 23/1/05 at 11:07 PM |
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thanks for clearing up that one
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