Deckman001
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| posted on 13/2/20 at 03:27 PM |
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Throttle peddle/cable connections ?
Hi All,
I need to make a decent connection between my throttle cable and the pedal bar.
I am using a pedal box that for the throttle, it gives a straight bar that sticks up into the engine bay, this bar swivels from below so just pivots
forward and backwards like it needs to.
My throttle cable comes from the bike carbs and has a cut cable end that i need a locost way to fix it to the pedal.
What have others used, and is there a cheap kit for this, my temporary way to use a terminal strip isn't a great way to leave it lol
Jason
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 13/2/20 at 04:11 PM |
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I've used somthing like this
https://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-ancillaries/sytec-twin-throttle-cable-pedal-block.html
on the pedal, I would then use a cycle cable end to stop it pulling through.
[Edited on 13/2/20 by Schrodinger]
Keith
Aviemore
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/2/20 at 04:21 PM |
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That's interesting,, ,, I'll look into that idea, cheers 
Jason
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jps
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| posted on 13/2/20 at 04:36 PM |
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I was reading up on this recently. Lots of people mentioned using a 'choc-bloc' electrical connector (the same as a terminal strip?) to
secure a loop as a their permanent solution. I guess there's not exactly a lot of force going through the accelerator cable.
Bicycle gear and brake cables usually just clamp with a grooved washer that bolts down to secure the cable, and I expect the forces are higher in that
setup than for operating a carb?
[Edited on 13/2/20 by jps]
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TimC
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| posted on 13/2/20 at 06:41 PM |
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Is it c.10mm round bar?
I’ve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - can’t recall) and then
used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about.
Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.
TC
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Myke 2463
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| posted on 14/2/20 at 08:12 AM |
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Much better than terminal block, eBay item number:184014982278
Be Lucky Mike.
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JeffHs
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| posted on 14/2/20 at 03:39 PM |
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I've fitted a hard pedal stop so I can't break the cable end again after an overtaking embarrassment when with wide open throttle the
solderless nipple let go and the engine dropped to idle. Ooops!
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Deckman001
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| posted on 14/2/20 at 04:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Is it c.10mm round bar?
I’ve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - can’t recall) and then
used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about.
Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.
TC
Yes I think it is.
So, I have drilled through the bar at the height it comes out of the bracket in front of it, and so far have just threaded it through and used a
terminal strip piece to lock it off.
Am i right in thinking that i could now cut the bar just above the drilled hole, and then drill down into the top of the bar so that this new hole
that is to be 'tapped' bottoms out at the cross drilled point, and then i could use a bolt to lock the cable to the pedal and maybe lock
nut the bolt for good measure ?
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 14/2/20 at 04:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JeffHs
I've fitted a hard pedal stop so I can't break the cable end again after an overtaking embarrassment when with wide open throttle the
solderless nipple let go and the engine dropped to idle. Ooops!
Eek,
Thankfully the slot i cut in the foot well top for the pedal rod to pass up into is the exact travel of the cable originally bought, What a lucky
first attempt I hope !!
That and the bike throttle bodies have full travel lock points so can't be over extended, I just need to make sure the tension is kept correct
hopefully.
Jason
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jps
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| posted on 14/2/20 at 04:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Is it c.10mm round bar?
I’ve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - can’t recall) and then
used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about.
Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.
TC
Yes I think it is.
So, I have drilled through the bar at the height it comes out of the bracket in front of it, and so far have just threaded it through and used a
terminal strip piece to lock it off.
Am i right in thinking that i could now cut the bar just above the drilled hole, and then drill down into the top of the bar so that this new hole
that is to be 'tapped' bottoms out at the cross drilled point, and then i could use a bolt to lock the cable to the pedal and maybe lock
nut the bolt for good measure ?
Jason
Sounds like it - but that sounds like it would cause the cable to flex at the end where it is clamped, and eventually snap. That was the main reason I
knocked up a little clevis arrangement. If the limits of the travel were set I think a crimp end on the cable would allow a clevis to be used
(assuming you can't just pop the clevis on the wire then put a blob of weld on the end to make it too big for the hole you've pulled it
through...
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/2/20 at 05:08 PM |
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Could someone post pictures to this thread. I'm struggling to Imagine what is being described.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 21/2/20 at 02:27 PM |
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Here it is, sorry, still trying to work out best way to post pics.
Jason
 
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