pigeondave
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| posted on 26/1/21 at 10:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
You can't over-cool if you have a stat? OK that's a slight simplification, but for anything close in size you can't. The stat will
open when it's the right temp, and close when it's cooled below it, averaging out at the right flow through to give the right temp. If
your rad over-cooled, the stat would shut to let it heat back up. There's a bit of hysteresis of course.
[Edited on 25/1/21 by coyoteboy]
Maybe over cool was the wrong word.
What I mean is, if the stat takes ages open as the cold water in the rad and the stat bypass pipe takes a long time to warm up. This makes the oil
take a long time to heat up, or get to temp too. So I have to wait a lot longer before I can really depress the loud pedal.
I paid for ARP bolts and damn it! I'm going to use them 
But I'm not so crazy that I'm going to rev above 3k with cold oil.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 26/1/21 at 11:44 AM |
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You could go electric water pump and pull the stat entirely and free up some engine hp - fastest possible warm-up. Or just reduce the volume and
cooling of your bypass circuitry. Or do what Peugeot do and lob in a coolant heater (weighs about 200g) on a switched ECU output/stat switch.
[Edited on 26/1/21 by coyoteboy]
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pigeondave
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| posted on 26/1/21 at 12:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Or do what Peugeot do and lob in a coolant heater (weighs about 200g) on a switched ECU output/stat switch.
[Edited on 26/1/21 by coyoteboy]
I have been looking at block heaters if truth be told. The type which go into the freeze plug.
I dunno, I'll get the oil drained and changed and install the sump plug for temp and play it from there.
I'm thinking I'll be able to go with a smaller rad in the end. Trouble is when you stop, the water temps creep up quick. I should really
be running the fan off the ECU and not the switch in the rad, but that's a whole different thread.
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