John G
|
| posted on 13/5/22 at 03:20 PM |
|
|
Sierra drive shaft rubber replacement
The drive shaft rubbers have some cracks on my Stuart Taylor. Where is a good place to purchase and what is the procedure to replace them?
regards Jon
|
|
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 13/5/22 at 06:47 PM |
|
|
Depends on if you can split the joint i.e. pull the shaft out. Some fords (like my fiesta) don't split so you have to use one of the stretchable
boots. Those are alright but still tough to get on, very messy and need a cone to fit them, plus they are quite thin. If the joint does split then its
a doddle to just pull the shaft out, change the boot and pull the boot back up.
Look up changing driveshaft boots on YouTube and you'll see how its done. Quite a bit of labour so pays to do it yourself.
|
|
|
Sanzomat
|
| posted on 13/5/22 at 07:02 PM |
|
|
I've done the Lobro type but not sure if the push in type are the same. For the Lobro ones its a doddle. A bit messy though!
Once you've removed the shafts by ondoing the 6 bolts each end and have them on the bench you can remove the gaiter clips. There are several ways
to do this but if they are the crimp type you can't re-use them. Looking at the end you'll find there is a circlip on the shaft ends, most
likely covered in black grease. Once you've removed the circlip the whole CV joint simply slides off the shaft. You can then easily remove the
small end of the gaiter off the shaft. The new gaiter goes on small end first followed by the CV joint and circlip. It is good practice to clean off
all the old grease and fully re-pack it with new grease, especially if the old gaiter has been letting dirt in. If the grease is still
"clean" you could just top it up though. New gaiter kits usually come with a sachet of grease but easy enough to buy a tub.
The new gaiter clips are almost always the crimp type and you need a special crimping tool to tighten them. If you try to do it with normal pliers you
will almost certainly wreck them. The crimping tools are cheap enough and if you are only using it every few years a cheapo one will do.
I bought my new boots from J&R and they seem fine.
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 14/5/22 at 03:44 PM |
|
|
the bolt-on (aka Lobro) type are easy if thats the ones you have -
but if you want them to last get proper GKN made boots - I had a set of cheap ones that came with the recon CV joints and the failed after a couple
of years (the car wasn't even on the road!)
these types come in 3 sizes (used on loads of different cars inc VW, Porsche, BMW, etc...)
most sierra's that have these use the 100mm OD size (86mm P.C.D. on the bolts) 2wd cossie's used the bigger 108mm ones (94mm P.C.D. )
you can get the standard type with the bellows style rubber boot but weirdly the 'aero'/'fast' boot style is often cheaper and
have more clearance for suspension arms / de dion axles etc..
these are the ones I'm using:
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/gkn-aerodynamic-cv-joint-boot-243477/
-
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 15/5/22 at 12:20 PM |
|
|
I replaced the boots on my push-in Sierra drive shafts. Got the overhaul kits from my local Ford main dealer.
I had to cut open and remove the metal can to split each joint apart. Crirclip pliers required to remove circlip from the shaft ends. The most time
consuming bit was peening the replacement metal cans closed when reassembling each joint (4 in total).
Time consuming, but satisfying job.
I did mine in 2003. No idea if Ford main dealers will still have the overhaul kits.
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 16/5/22 at 10:55 AM |
|
|
Some photos (from my archive) showing the dismantled and reasembled / overhauled push-in driveshaft.
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 17/5/22 at 06:47 AM |
|
|
Ford stopped doing the parts around mid 2000s. I got the last ones from my local dealer.
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 17/5/22 at 06:48 AM |
|
|
I believe but never had it confirmed another cars parts can fit. The cans are a little larger. I think they're from a VW.
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 17/5/22 at 06:53 PM |
|
|
Unfortunately you have to get the can off to completely dismantle the joint so fitting the new boot is easier. Otherwise you may as well use that
cone type tool and stretch a replacement boot on.
|
|
|
