Northy
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 07:35 PM |
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Lobro driveshaft bolts
I'm going to get some hex head 12.9 tonne bolts to replace the Torx bolts on my drive shafts, but the question is, do I really need the
little metal plates that go between the two bolts? What do they do?
If so, is the best place to get them Ford?
Cheers
G
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing! 
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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bob
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 07:41 PM |
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graham
They prtect the CV joint casing,i'd keep them myself but i have seen a few people discard them.
check the torque of these bolts too,its critical so i've been told. I'm sure its been talked about before this one.
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bob
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 07:47 PM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=21284
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 08:28 PM |
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Hi G,
Got the rear shafts on yet?
As Jon Ison said - just use frilly washers.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Northy
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 08:41 PM |
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Nah, not yet. Not even got the bearing carriers on yet. It's starting to drag on a bit now, I'll have to get my arse in gear.
I just didn't feel like doing anything today, as I was up early to watch the GP 
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 10:18 PM |
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Graham,
have you managed to establish if the stub shafts will pass through the rear uprights without removing the ABS teeth, yet?
I've still to dismantle my rear end, but, without proper measurement, it looks as though it'll be tight!
Regards,
Andy.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/3/05 at 10:42 PM |
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G,
Like me and Carl said before - easiest way is to just replace the tube in the middle of the upright with one of greater diameter.
No need to remove the ABS teeth then.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Northy
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| posted on 7/3/05 at 08:02 AM |
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Andrew, no not yet. I've got all the bits cleaned and primed so I can start looking how it goes together this week.
Pat, how can that be the easiest way when I've already got fabricated uprights? It would be hell moding them, and if I made new ones
they'd be like MK ones, not Tiger jobbies.
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/3/05 at 08:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Northy
I'm going to get some hex head 12.9 tonne bolts to replace the Torx bolts on my drive shafts, but the question is, do I really need the
little metal plates that go between the two bolts? What do they do?
If so, is the best place to get them Ford?
Cheers
G
I have done this several times, and I use the 12.9 caphead bolts (hex socket ones as you are using) and nothing else at all apart from a drop of
loctite.
I don't bother with the plates or any washers, and I use this setup on my grasser which has a locked diff and puts enormous stress on the
shafts, and I have never had a bolt come loose or any problems with the CV cage yet.
If the plates were to "protect" the cage, then I hate to think the damage that the balls in the joint would do to it given the loads that
they apply!!
Have a look at some GKN competition joints, they don't use any washers/plates.
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