jcduroc
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| posted on 5/12/02 at 10:16 AM |
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SOHC Pinto Tuning
Hi guys
I just got the engine+gearbox out of an 1600 Sierra (up the car, down the powertrain complete with subframe).
I need your advice on a good book about tuning a SOHC Pinto engine.
Thanks
Joćo
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Stu16v
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| posted on 5/12/02 at 01:41 PM |
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David Vizard wrote a book on tuning the SOHC Pinto engine. In fact, I think that is what it was called.......
This guy knows his stuff, and although he is probably better known for tuning Mini engines, writes in an easy to understand manner.
HTH Stu.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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bob
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| posted on 5/12/02 at 08:19 PM |
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HOW TO MODIFY S.O.H.C. ENGINES
Yep stu is right its by David Vizard.
Here's the ISBN
ISBN 0 86343 0856
If the regular internet book sellers cant get it or mail it to you try this one as its where i got my copy http://www.chaters.co.uk
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UncleFista
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| posted on 6/12/02 at 01:30 AM |
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Not books but good URL's 
Puma Racing
Dave Andrews
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 6/12/02 at 09:58 AM |
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tuning pinto
First note that I pick up on from your posting. You say you've got a 1.6 pinto, OK you need to be aware that Ford produced two versions of the 1.6
lump and the differences are subltle but they affect the posibilities further down the road.
Early version was/is orginal with shorter block,shorter cambelt, short throw crankshaft (relatively) and standard bore pistons. Also cam cover says
1.6 on lower pulley cover.
Later versions called the E-max used 2.0l block, crank, rods, cambelt, timing cover (2.0l on lower pulley cover). The big difference was in the small
pistons used. To a degree this engine is slightly better in that they will run unleaded without problems and you get bags of torque compared to the
early unit, and the block is stronger. The easiest form of tuning is to take the rocker cover off with the engine out and swap the 1.6 cam (1 nipple
on length of shaft between No 1 & No2 cyl lobes)for a 2.0 job (2 Nipples). fit new fingers & spray bar. (instant 1.6GT)
After that you need to know if its an early lump or an E-max lump cos you start playing with major assemblies and you could swap the 1.6 head for the
2.0 (bigger valves & cam swap) but you might have problems with valves fowling the block?. After that you pay your money and you take your pick.
Hope that this is helpful
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jcduroc
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| posted on 6/12/02 at 11:18 AM |
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TUNING SOHC PINTO
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
... you need to be aware that Ford produced two versions of the 1.6 lump and the differences are subltle ...
Thank you all for the info. I guess that I must start by identifying which 1600 Pinto I have.
Along with Vizard's book at Chaters (Hi Bob) website I found 2 other from D.Hammil; are they any good?
Good info in the two site as well. Thank you UncleFista(?)
Cheers
Joćo
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matt@teamturtle
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| posted on 11/12/02 at 08:42 PM |
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First question you need to ask yourself. How far do you want to go?
Set yourself a budget, by pricing all the parts you will need, including gaskets, oilseals, bearings, etc. Price cams, head work, conrods, pistons as
well. It will soon mount up. Do this before starting any work.
Seek advice by asking people and reading books on the subject. www.veloce.co.uk do some books on pinto tuning, choosing cams and cylinder head
work.
Don't buy parts that aren't needed. Let commonsense rule.
Plan a work schedule. That way you will be able to spread the budget around what you are able to afford.
Build for reliability. Even race engines have reliability built in. You don't want to be replacing parts on a regular basis.
If you sub work out check out the supplier. Plenty of people on here will have recommendations.
Above all be methodical and clean in your work. I've seen the damage a piece of shot peen can do to a £100K F1 engine, in isn't pretty.
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