Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 11:05 AM |
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C20XE sump removal
Hello,
I am trying to remove my old sump from my Vauxhall C20 XE engine but can't get the thing off. I have removed all fixing bolts but the thing is
stuck solid. Is this normal? Any views on what I can do to get it off as I can see me smashing it to pieces in a little while.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 11:09 AM |
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If all the bolts are out, and some may be hidden behind pulleys etc, then a few gentle taps with a hammer and a bit of wood around the gasket area
normally does the trick.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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grassracer
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 11:28 AM |
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Problem with those is that they have 2 sump gaskets seperated by the baffle plate. Can be rock solid (cork gaskets) Can you get a small lever of some
type in and gently prise apart to break the seal...not too much force though!! once it starts to move it'll come apart fairly easily
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 11:37 AM |
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Make sure you don't forget the two bolts at either end. Two by the bottom pulley and two tucked behind the flywheel. See if you can get the 8v
windage tray with the rubber gaskets attached for when you put it back together. It does need one of the flaps bending down out of the way but it will
be obvious which one when you compare it with the 16v one.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 12:09 PM |
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Hi,
done loads of these. As was said, make sure you don't miss the two deeply recessed bolts behind the flywheel.
Lever the sump off, bin the cork gasket, but keep the windage tray.
Don't get the 8v tray, use the 16v one, but fit the 8v rubber gasket. (engine code 20 SEH)
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 12:11 PM |
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wide blade screwdriver and rubber mallet does the job 
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 01:24 PM |
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Thanks for the help, feel a little stupid having made such a meal of a straight forward job. Anyway got it off with the help of a load of screw
drivers and a stanley knife.
Why go for the rubber gasket out of interest?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 01:34 PM |
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Much better at staying sealed than the cork ones. Cheaper too which is always nice!
It just wraps around the windage tray. The later Ecotec engines used the rubber gasket and tray setup as well.
Use the rubber one and clean and loctite all the sump bolts, then tighten them very carefully! I use a cordless screwdriver to tighten them, set to
one of the higher torque settings, this then easily tightens them all to the same torque (bearing in mind its too low for any normal torque wrench to
read. They certainly will actually feel pretty loose, but that's how they are! I'm guessing around 18Nm
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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