les
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 posted on 27/3/07 at 09:16 PM |
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she is alive!!.....sort of!
hi gents,
started engine for first time!!! after schoolboy error of wiring coil pack to earth rather than +12V, once corrected the zetec roared gloriously into
life....NOT!!
it ran rough as an old dog at about 500rpm, with full choke, dying at any hint of throttle!!!
hopefully someone can confirm that now i have spark it means that crank sensor is working and edis / megajolt wired up ok?
going to move on for now- once bodywork sorted, and exhaust on, ill get work on it more- currently using a pipe held up with some fuel in it!! (tank
not plumbed in)
les
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/3/07 at 09:32 PM |
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did you have any kind of fuel pump? fuel pressure maybe?
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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soggy 3
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| posted on 27/3/07 at 10:42 PM |
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Its an great feeling when it first starts up isnt it.
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tks
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 12:04 AM |
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The edis has a limp home mode..
You would need to confirm it isn't in that mode also the (spark mcu to call it this way) needs to be "mapped" is it mapped?
wich? map? is it known good??
etc.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 02:02 AM |
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Good sign - and yes, it looks like the Crank sensor is working.
However you could have it connected the wrong way round!
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les
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 07:23 AM |
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thanks for the replies gents!
so if the Crank sensor is the wrong way round, would i still get a spark?
les
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les
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 07:26 AM |
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map is listed as standard zetec 3d default.
tps guage in the software is working with the throttle, any other way to confirm if its in limp home mode?
les
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DarrenW
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 09:01 AM |
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From my experience - car wouldnt start with crank sensor disconnected so i assume this rule applies if it is wired wrong. The fact you have ignition
suggests it is basically OK.
My first job after connecting the MJLJ up was to fire the car up. It ran very rough. I connected laptop (after curing the comms problem). I got the
map into the PC and could see it was all wrong. I changed the map over and got it to run quite nicely.
Next job was to reset the map to 10 deg at idle (i populated several bins with 10deg to ensure it was running at 10deg in several areas). I then
connected strobe and checked i had 10deg at the crank wheel. I used Snap on advance timing light - due to new system being wasted spark the advance
and rpm read double so i had to halve whatever was on the digi display. I had exactly 10deg so this proved the crank VR sensor was set at exactly 90
deg BTDC.
I then reset the map to a good starting point for road trials.
Next job will be to connect TPS to throttle spindle of carbs so i can get it running in 3D mode. TPS will need to be calibrated - quite easy to do if
you follow instructions.
If you know it is all connected correctly and you have good comms but it still runs rough check the VR sensor gap and integrity of the bracket. If the
sensors moves you can lose the signal. Most people say 90% of running issues are down to VR wiring and bracket stiffness.
Also worth noting is when using the config software, you can get map, alter it and then upload to MJLJ. If car runs great you have to burn the map to
the MJLJ unit otherwise when you switch off and restart it will default back to the last loaded map. Guess how i know?????
Fingers crossed for you. Report back your results please as it may help me when i do the road trials.
Just thinking - another reason mine ran rough was that i connected the plug leads up wrong. I thought the numbers on teh coil pack weer same as dizzy
positions and hence got the 1-3-4-2 running order wrong. Changed them so 1coil pack - 1cylinder, 2 - 2, 3 - 3, 4 - 4 and it was good.
Cheers,
Darren.
[Edited on 28/3/07 by DarrenW]
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 09:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
From my experience - car wouldnt start with crank sensor disconnected so i assume this rule applies if it is wired wrong.
Not sure if that assumption is correct - from what little I have looked into Megajolt/squirt, the VR sensor provies AC signal so you would change the
polairty - the detector is looking for a zero crossing so it should (without thinking too hard about it) not make any difference whcih way round it is
connected.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 10:34 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
From my experience - car wouldnt start with crank sensor disconnected so i assume this rule applies if it is wired wrong.
Not sure if that assumption is correct - from what little I have looked into Megajolt/squirt, the VR sensor provies AC signal so you would change the
polairty - the detector is looking for a zero crossing so it should (without thinking too hard about it) not make any difference whcih way round it is
connected.
Im no expert yet but doing a search of the Autosports forum certainly quoted VR sensor polarity as one of the main problems in first getting the car
to fire up. I also know the Ford OE sensor and plug are keyed so they can only be connected one way round - hence where my assumption comes from.
All comments in my post are purely from my experience to date.
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les
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| posted on 28/3/07 at 11:36 PM |
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hi chaps,
filled a bit of fuel in the tank and allowed the fuel pump to run until it settled,
then engine fired up straight away, and ran well!!
I can confirm crank sensor has to be the correct way round- tried it both ways and would only run one way.
i think im still in limp home mode- no rpm reading on megajolt software, but tps guage is reading ok- so thinking it must be wiring from edis to mj-
will check on friday and report.
had some fuel leak problems- two points both where fuel hose joins the solid pipe i have run through the tranny tunnel- i havent flared the ends of
the pipe- just used hose clips- when tightened it now seems ok- any thoughts ?
is there a tool for doing this?
les
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 29/3/07 at 07:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
Not sure if that assumption is correct - from what little I have looked into Megajolt/squirt, the VR sensor provies AC signal so you would change the
polairty - the detector is looking for a zero crossing so it should (without thinking too hard about it) not make any difference whcih way round it is
connected.
It is an AC signal yes, but depending on polarity you will either get a positive peak first or a negative one. The way that EDIS performs it's
zero crossing detection, the VR sensor has to be wired correctly to make it work.
Some engines (e.g. Rover K series) will run with the sensors connected backwards but very badly with very retarded timing.
[Edited on 29/3/07 by MikeRJ]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 29/3/07 at 09:07 AM |
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Les - ref fuel pipe joining i have had good success using a brake pipe type flare on the solid pipe, then pushing the flexi over it (may need a drop
of light oil as lube) followed by the hose clamps (i use jubilee type clips on my braided hose but others propose proper fuel hose clamps for rubber
hose).
great news about getting the car running - well done. Not sure why you wouldnt get a rpm reading on the PC, After i sorted my comms problems out (by
using V3.0 MJLJtune) it all worked fine. Only thing i could think of is if the tickover is below the point at which the revs show on the screen but
suspect the car wont run good at that (below 400rpm iirc). As you say its maybe a connection from the EDIS. Mine is built into the MJLJ box so one
less thing to worry about (unless it goes wrong!!).
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DarrenW
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| posted on 29/3/07 at 09:17 AM |
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Just thinking again - and bear in mind im no expert yet. If you are in limp home mode does this suggest an EDIS fault? (i dont mean NG unit, maybe
just wiring). In this mode you should get a fixed 10deg advance. If you have a strobe light you can check for it at the crank wheel. Assuming the
loaded map has increasing advance over the rev bins, at tickover you should observe 10deg at the timing marks, increase the revs and if it stays at 10
then your assumption sounds right ref limp mode.
If you dont have 10deg (assuming a std map) then this maybe because your crank sensor is not at 90deg BTDC. (i checked this point before mapping by
population a map with 10deg at all points and confirming with an advance timing light).
Once you know VR sensor is aligned correctly and you know you have good comms, changing the map in the software should give the corresponding change
at the timing marks (you can often here the engine respond without the timing light). Once you have a decent map loaded into the MJLJ dont forget to
burn it (there is a button on V3 software to do that) otherwise it will default to the last map when you switch off. (I dont think V2 software needs
you to burn afterwards).
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les
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 07:37 AM |
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hi,
yes ive got the new software and found the burn to flash button. going to checkout the wiring this morning, then see where i am.
i havent set any of the bins yet- there was a link to a program which calculated the bin values when you enter your max and min tps readings, so was
going to use that- Ill report back, as always hoping it will be something simple!!
les
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