myeates
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 03:53 PM |
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engine flushing oil
hi my engine was recondition not very well a while back by Humberside Engines in Scunthorpe (dont take engines there) and there is still oil build ups
in the engine in places. Its very close to being run as soon as i fill up with oil.
The question is, is there a engine flushing oil you can get that is put in the engine instead of normal oil then emptied after a short time.
I know there is the stuff from halfords that you add to the engine before an oil change but as mine has not been run and has no oil in it i want to
make sure that it is ok before running properly. Or am i going to have to fill with normal and add other stuff.
thanks guys
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 03:56 PM |
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there are flushing oils, but to be honest they don't do a very good job. If there is tar in the engine it will not flush out, it needs a proper
hot chemical wash.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Catpuss
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 05:22 PM |
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I'd avoid flushing oils if you can. Certainly on a bike engine it can be quite harmful.
As said, get it properly cleaned or do the normal run in oil change at 600 miles or so.
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myeates
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 05:44 PM |
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thanks guys sounds like i will stear clear of it will just do the first oil change early. im new to reconditioned engines will i need to use running
in oil or do anything differently
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 05:52 PM |
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just use a cheap mineral oil and change it after 300 miles
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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myeates
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 06:00 PM |
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thanks mate will do
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andyharding
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 06:47 PM |
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Use a basic mineral oil with nothing added. Halfords basic mineral oil is good. Limit yourself to 2/3 max RPM but use full throttle and the whole
(reduced) rev range as much as you can to get a good seal on the rings. After 150-200 miles change to a semi-synth oil and really give it some stick.
After 1000 miles change again either semi or full synth.
If it's got a new cam and not run don't forget to run the cam in properly.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 07:02 PM |
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Using semi or fully synthetic depends upon what engine it is , older type engines are not always suited to them . Use the oil recommended by the
engine manufacturers
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myeates
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 07:06 PM |
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its a 1.3 x-flow from 1972 so fairly old
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 17/4/07 at 12:39 AM |
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Stay away from any sort of engine oil flush, or cleaners. They tend to loosen the sludge/carbon and block passages. If you have an older sludgy
engine I recommend running diesel oils as they have a mild detergent, but not enough to hurt.
For a new engine, run whatever is recommended (sounds like regular dino-oil in your case). I highly recommend adding a bottle of GM EOS pn: 992869
(engine oil suppliment) to any new engine. Replaces the zinc and other good stuff that is no longer in new engine oil. GM requires a bottle of it
for every crate engine for warranty purposes.
Keep in mind that I am from a whole different market, so my info may not be accurate on your side of the water.
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/4/07 at 10:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyharding
Limit yourself to 2/3 max RPM but use full throttle and the whole (reduced) rev range as much as you can to get a good seal on the rings. After
150-200 miles change to a semi-synth oil and really give it some stick.
hmmm, there was a discussion about running in a while back - pretty sure I posted a link of some guy in US that recommends thrasing the b*ll*cks off
the engine as this get the rings matched up to the pistons best.
found it - see here
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 17/4/07 at 02:12 PM |
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There are two things that are priorities. First is camshaft break-in. If its a flat tappet you need to keep it well oiled while running it for a
while. Because most engines do not pump oil well at idle you need to raise the rpm. Generally 20-30min of no load 2000rpm varying the rpm slightly is
whats called for (this is where the EOS is recommended as well). Then change the oil. No synth oils unless thats what is recommended for the
engine.
Depending on what rings you're using ring break-in can be important as well. Usual procedure for this is to be in 2nd or 3rd gear and roll on
the throttle until WOT and near redline a few times. Then drive it gently for the next couple hundred miles, avoiding the same RPM steady and no
extended idle. Change the oil at about 1000miles and you are now good to go.
Having said that, with modern engines using roller lifters, and solf moly rings break in is virtually gone. The roller cams do not need break-in,
and the rings seat so fast it's not required.
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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Catpuss
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| posted on 18/4/07 at 08:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by myeates
its a 1.3 x-flow from 1972 so fairly old
Semi synth at best then. The tollerances are too loose for fully synthentic, wear may well increase and it could get past seals.
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myeates
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| posted on 18/4/07 at 08:47 PM |
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thanks guys appreciate all you help will hopefully be starting engine for the first time in 6 years within the next couple of weeks 
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Stu16v
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| posted on 18/4/07 at 09:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Catpuss
quote:
Originally posted by myeates
its a 1.3 x-flow from 1972 so fairly old
Semi synth at best then. The tollerances are too loose for fully synthentic, wear may well increase and it could get past seals.
Ahh, the misinformed....
Mineral/semi synthetic/fully synthetic. The tolerances will not have the foggiest idea what the oil base is made of.
Fill the engine full of fully sythetic 10w/40, and it will leak just as much as mineral 10w/40. It is the numbers that make the difference -
basically, the higher the numbers, the thicker the oil - got naff all to do with what/how it is made. For the record, the Xflow etc are probably best
with thicker oils like 20w/50.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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