Brook_lands
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| posted on 1/5/07 at 07:02 PM |
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Pinto mis-fire suggestions please up-date
Thanks to all those who replied to this morning's post. Started the journey home tonight, first 6 miles car ran like a dream then the first
cough which continued on and off for the rest of the journey home. Definately only happening on a medium/light throttle. The rev counter is dropping
to zero when this happens so I suspect that it is electrical and possible heat related. If its the electronics playing up its going to be fun so easy
bits first, couldn't find any rogue loose or damaged wires with a quick look before I set off. Next I think its going to be a coil change as I
have a couple of spares, unfortunately no time to do it tonight, great weather so any excuse of a drive, and of course I would have to do more than 6
miles to see if the problem re-occurred.
[Edited on 1/5/07 by Brook_lands]
[Edited on 1/5/07 by Brook_lands]
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russbost
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| posted on 1/5/07 at 09:20 PM |
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Have you possibly got a ballast coil with 12v going thro it?
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jamesbond007ltk
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| posted on 2/5/07 at 06:50 AM |
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Are you using the standard pinto electronic ignition?
I had a very similar problem recently. Behaviour exactly as you describe.
Replaced my iginition module (got a new one from an ebay shop for around £15). Also took the oppurtunity to rewire the whole low voltage side of the
ignition. (my original wiring was years old). Havent had the problem back since.
Just got a brocken trailing arm bracket instead!
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02GF74
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| posted on 2/5/07 at 07:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Brook_lands
The rev counter is dropping to zero when this happens so I suspect that it is electrical and possible heat related.
It is electrical on the LT side. Also try disconnecting the rev counter - unlikely that it is at fault but one less thing to investigate.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 2/5/07 at 08:52 AM |
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i too have had an amp fail before - aftermarket intermotor amp. Replaced it with OE motorcraft 2nd hand one and it was cured.
In your other thread you said you were using the later electronic ignition (if i understood it correctly). I dont believe many people have used this
as it is hall effect ECU based and potentially difficult to transplant from donor to kit. Im curious as to how you achieved this. Dont get me wrong -
im not saying youve done anything wrong but curious if the donor had some other bits and bobs in the loom that need to feed a signal to the ECU that
could have been missed. As with megajolt the ECU will need a crank trigger input or similar to send the correctly advanced signal to dizzy / coil etc,
so really out of curiosity im interested how the system does that.
Hopefully it is just a coil related fault. maybe an old owner has changed a coil before and fitted wrong type - just a thought.
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Brook_lands
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 12:20 PM |
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Thanks for the input once again guys.
12 v through a coil that is supposed to be ballasted is a possibility – coil came out ofthe donor but I have no idea of the history of the car before
that. One of the spare coils I have is a Sparkrite (by that takes me back about 30 years) marked 12v.
Using the complete electronic system is quite straight forward if you take the loom with the ecu and engine. While it looks very complex there are
only 3 external connections required, ground and two +12v (one ignition controlled) if I remember rightly.
I don’t think there is a crank position sensor, the firing must be triggered from the distributor as you can alter the timing by rotating the dizzy in
the old traditional way.
Like the disconnect the rev counter idea, will try that first followed by a coil swap. Forecast of Monday looking annoyingly iffy so the trip to
Stoneleigh might be off so less incentive to get it sorted.
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