DarrenW
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 08:42 AM |
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Bike carb manifold and bike carb advice
Just looking for inspiration to get on with bike carb conversion.
Manifold
I had an ali manfold made but it is in its raw state. External welds are a bit messy - what would you recommend tool wise for grinding them down? I
have tried a die grinder but as my carbide tool is crap and compressor is small what else can be used to make them look more appealing? I was thinking
taking the rough down with angle grinder but dont know what attachment would be best for ali and im guessing the grinder would have difficulty
accessing between the pipes.
Inside of pipes - imagine the manifold back plate is 10mm thich and has pipes welded on at an angle, this has left steps inside. I have die grinded
them a bit to smooth out but there are still steps in some that need to be filled. What is best for filling them (assuming i dont have access to ali
welding kit). Would JB weld or similar be OK?
Carbs
I have ZZR1100 carbs. No TPS which i need for the MJLJ. I have just found out a mate has a spare set of ZX9R carbs which have TPS. Which carbs would
you go for and why? Would the ZX9R's need any mods (im thinking air holes etc). Assume i know nowt about carbs. I have always had a niggle that
the ZZR1100's may be too big for the pinto.
Does anyone know if the spacing for ZX9R's and ZZR1100's are the same (if not then this will add a new manifold into the equation).
Has anyone had a home made manifold and conversion into Boggs for setting up? Did this cause any issues? (im sure they would prefer people to buy
their own manifold - hence wondering if this gives some advantages at set up time which makes their manifold cost a bit more sensible when thinking of
the total cost).
Thanks in advance,
Darren.
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 11:26 AM |
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grinding stones are not too clever for use with aluminiuim as will clog up. angle grinder discs have been known to heat up and explode - I think you
can by special ones for aluminininininium.
I used a dremel with a steel reamer to port v8 manifolds - this will cut aluminium alloy and is small enough to get into your gaps. Or a cyldriccal
sanding attachment, the coarse one doesn't block up too badly.
or hand filing - remember as long as the manifold sticks together, its appearance is not critical to operation.
re: the gaps; lumiweld or technoweld (same thing, different name) is what I would suggest but 10 mm aluminium is a sizeable heat sink - you will need
to pump in a pretty huge amount of heat for it to melt the rod. I am not sure if the heat will distort the face manifold face - it shouldn;t but
something to thinl about before doing it.
Sitting it in the kitchen hob with the lighter on to heat it then a blow torch for local heat application may do it.
With epoxy filler type stuff I'd be concerned with that falling off and getting into the engine, not saying it will happen but like I say,
I'd be concerned (no reason why you shouldn't try it after all it ain't my engine) 
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BenB
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 11:44 AM |
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I use a dremel type tool with a cutting wheel to clean up welds. Hold it perpendicular to the weld and "stroke" up and down the weld with
it. Makes a very neat appearance without further need for finishing.
Technoweld etc would be fine in theory but a pain in practice. Ali is such a good conductor that the whole piece tends to assume the same temperature.
So whilst you're brazing one part of the piece your existing "welds" melt and roll away!!! Frustrating!!!
I'd actually use one of the aliminium based fillers (can't remember the name but by the same people as P45). Not sure why (ie whether
it's got anything to do with ali content or not) but it seems to stick well to the aliminium and I've never had any flaking issues when I
used it inside my airbox...
I wouldn't personally worry about epoxy aliminium bonds. I did a stress test on an ali / ali epoxy bond and 40mm2 (surfaces roughened first)
sustained 12kg!!! Technoweld sustained over 20kg before my testing rig collapsed!!!! Even when the epoxy did let go it was an internal fracture
suggesting I hadn't mixed it fully or it had got contaminated during mixing rather than the epoxy / ali bond giving way....
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DarrenW
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 11:44 AM |
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Hand filing and dremel with sanding drum is a good idea. I might try getting down the big bits in accessible areas with angry gringer and one of those
sandpaper discs first then the coarsest file i have etc. Should be able to finish off with emery tape at the end. Im not bothered about a show finish,
just make it look a little more presentable.
Ive had good success with JB weld on oil pick up strainer in sump (checked after 18 months / 4000 miles and still looks like new) and also to seal a
leak on an alloy spacer. The key always seems to be to rough up the area and make sure it is extremely clean. Just wondering if anyone has had a bad
result i guess.
Carb spacing on ZZR1100's is 75 - 85 - 75 for reference if anyone knows the ZX9R spacing.
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mitch2b
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 06:09 PM |
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hi darren
I took my Rhood to Boggs last week,
i used a manifold made by cryoman and a set of gsxr 600 carbs,
Dave the dad of the Bogg bros set them up without issue, in fact he commented how well made the manifold was.
I recomend having them set up properly the cost (60-70 quid) is excellent value
Mitch
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DarrenW
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| posted on 28/6/07 at 10:15 PM |
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Some good feedback, thanks. it has had a positive effect - ive spent 2 hours with my Aldi dremelalike special and its looking great. Not perfect but
certainly far far better than it was. All it needs now is;
1. Outside going over with emery tape (it wont get a polished finish),
2. Internal profiles blended with JB and smoothed in,
3. Flange surface flashing over on a miller.
So, just need to turn attention to the carbs - any ideas?
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