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Author: Subject: Striker 4AGE (20V) Idle Valve Puzzler
Litemoth

posted on 5/7/07 at 11:51 PM Reply With Quote
Striker 4AGE (20V) Idle Valve Puzzler

I have a newly built Striker that I've bought (and I'm rebuilding because the build quality is a bit pants) and I've noticed that there's air being sucked through the aux. air valve (or idle contol valve if you prefer) with no pipe connection or sock filter on there. I presume it was originally connected to the airflow meter ducting or similar. I spoke to a guy at RAW and was told that this was standard practice on their conversions. Can this be right? The valve sucks air on cold start and during normal running.
The fuel pressure regulator is also devoid of its vacuum pipe which is also 'normal' according to RAW. I have a hard working fuel pump in that case.
Thoughts and suggestions please....

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bimbleuk

posted on 6/7/07 at 07:33 AM Reply With Quote
I agree there should be a filter of some sort on the idle control valve inlet but it can be left open apart from that.

FPR: Is the car using an OMEX ECU or similar? If so then the car is mapped to run this way and is no problem. There are dozens of conversion running like this. If the car was running the Toyota ECU then I would recommend connecting a vacuum line to the FPR. The FPR on an unboosted car will pull the presuure down never up!

I've been running 3 diferent 4AGEs like this for the past 3 years with no issues. Now I'm running running boost on my 20V I've connected a vacuum line (really its a boost reference line) to the FPR and its corrects for boost perfectly. Increasing fuel pressure from something like 45 to 60 PSI depending on how many PSI are seen.

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Litemoth

posted on 6/7/07 at 09:52 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for your swift reply.
The car is running an Omex ECU and was a Raw conversion (according to the guy I bought it off) It just seems a sloppy slution to allow the engine to draw air like this. I'll probably re-pipe the intake to gain more height and put a small sock at the end.
The sloppiness seems to continue with the fuel regulator. Forcing the pump to run at full pressure by removing the vacuum line is just naff engineering. I can hear the pump working it's nuts off whilst idling in traffic and it's gnawing at me a bit. I guess it was done to overcome fuel starvation problems encountered using the original FPR. I think I've seen adjustable range FPR's with vacuum control somewhere so may experiment with one.

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rusty

posted on 6/7/07 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
We connected the ICV input in behind our cone filter and it works fine.
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bimbleuk

posted on 6/7/07 at 11:51 AM Reply With Quote
The way I see it the pump runs at a constant rate and the FPR just bypases excess fuel back to the tank. As a test though just connect a vaccum line and give it a quick test down the road. Obviously the fuel pressure may drop so don't put the engine under a lot of load for the test.
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Litemoth

posted on 6/7/07 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
Can you elaborate a bit on the cone filter connection there Rusty? Do you mean it's sucking air through a filter that's feeding the engine? Mine (and many others) have rampipes and sock filters or gauze.
I've just ordered a high flow filter designed for one of those pumped-up remote control cars (boy have they moved on since I had one!) It looks right for the job.

Bimble, I'll give the standard FPR a chance and reconnect the vacuum to it and see if the pump gets an easier time of it. If it looks like I'm going in the right direction, I'll machine up a new connection for the fuel rail and mate up an aftermarket (adjustable) FPR

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thomas4age

posted on 7/7/07 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
I have set the engine up with only a RAW engineering omex 500 MAP the rest I did myself,

No ICV, Vacuum lined FPR, I balanced the idle on the ITB's which was a bit of a nightmare to get right, but when it's ok it stays ok for a long time.

do use the FPR they way it's desinged to be.

grtz Thomas





If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.

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bimbleuk

posted on 7/7/07 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
Yep sounds like Rusty is using a 16V 4AGE with a single throttle not the ITBs on the 20V?

The nitro car filter could be a good idea as they are rather advanced now! I will fit my ICV next week after 3 years. I only need it now as the supercharger pulls the idle down briefly when you lift off.

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thomas4age

posted on 7/7/07 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
or 20v with airbox that is.

the omex600 can do the ICV and Speedon tells me the idle is very nice and stable.

@blimble: can't you use a simple Idle-up valve from a 16v t-vis to get the idle up when the rotrex kicks in? far simpler in desing though only on and of,

grtz Thomas





If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.

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