r1_pete
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 09:47 AM |
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Vacuum take offs.....
I'd omitted to ask Boggs to include vac take offs on my manifold, thought the carbs had them but they dont. Been struggling to find a
'correct solution' without returning them for another 9 week wait.
Changing the tip on the mig last night yielded the solution, drill out mig tips to 2mm, drill and tap the manifold M6, screw in the mig tips with a
dab of loctite, smooth off the protruding bit inside the manifold.
Anyone see a flaw in the plan before I drill and commit myself?
Cheers.
Pete.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 10:00 AM |
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You might find this bit of the MegaJolt instructions useful...
LINKY
...it's what I'll be doing soon (probably).
It doesn't tell you how to tap into the manifold runners, but it does tell a good way to set up the pipework.
HTH
David
[Edited on 2/11/07 by David Jenkins]
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02GF74
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 10:00 AM |
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how thick is the manifold you plan to drill & tap?
sounds like a good plan; not sure if the copper/aluminium interface will be a problem but I doubt it.
another alternative would be to lumiweld a aluminium tube but not wasy with the large thermal mass of the manifold.
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bigrich
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 10:04 AM |
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i have used brake cylinder bleed nipples to do the same on bikes for carb balacing then permanently fitted long vac lines, to stop the need for a full
strip each time.
works spot on.
Rich
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A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 10:11 AM |
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Having a lathe I will probably make some aluminium nipples (ooer!) with a threaded bit at the bottom. If they are screwed in with some semi-permanent
thread sealant then they should be fine. My tube wall will be 3+ mm thick, so should be fine.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 11:19 AM |
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Braze or Silver solder them in if you haven't enough thickness to drill & tap
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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indykid
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 02:05 PM |
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i used copper brake pipe and super glue. i left the stubs long and used a sanding drum in a dremel on the inside.
it's worked fine thus far. i made a small damper from 15mm copper pipe and it doesn't seem to pulse too much. it's only for dizzy
advance so the damper might need to be bigger for a MAP sensor
tom
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r1_pete
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 04:26 PM |
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Thanks everyone, I have 3 - 4 mm of ally so threading will be fine, I was thinking I'd resort to making some up on the lathe, but then the mig
tip idea struck, already threaded and drilled. The 15mm pipe damper idea sounds good, could drill the sides and use grommets to seal it against the
stubs, mmmmmm more ideas.
Definately worth tossing these things round on here....
Cheers.
Pete.
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paulf
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| posted on 2/11/07 at 08:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
I would try them without drilling the hole larger, it would help to damp the signal without causing to much of a lag in the signal response .8mm
should be ample.
Paul.
Changing the tip on the mig last night yielded the solution, drill out mig tips to 2mm, drill and tap the manifold M6, screw in the mig tips with a
dab of loctite, smooth off the protruding bit inside the manifold.
Anyone see a flaw in the plan before I drill and commit myself?
Cheers.
Pete.
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