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Author: Subject: Ideas for removing stubborn silencer
Hugh_

posted on 8/3/08 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
Ideas for removing stubborn silencer

I've had a rattle from the near side of the Fury for a while, and today decided to investigate it.

It transpired that it was a rivet holding the end of the silencer on which had come adrift and was rattling around the silencer which I've removed. However in the process I realised the wadding is much to densely packed so tried to get the silencer off so I can remove what wadding I haven't been able to get out so far.

The clamp came off easily, however the silencer will not! I've tried wiggling it, twisting it, heating it, WD40 (must remember not to start car in garage next time I go out!), hitting it with a rubber mallet, and finally using the pneumatic hammer/chisel thing. It simply won't move.

Any ideas or suggestions appreciated, obviously I'd rather not destroy the thing as its a decent repackable one so not cheap!

[Edited on 8/3/08 by Hugh_]






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gregf27

posted on 8/3/08 at 10:54 PM Reply With Quote
try heating up some engine oil and pouring it onto the edge of your can, might be enough to free it up?
idea nicked from salvage squad tv programme , when they used it to free up a seized engine. no damage to your can either

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Mr Whippy

posted on 8/3/08 at 11:15 PM Reply With Quote
normal hack would be to cut a slot in the tube to let the joint expand, done on the side that faces the car with a dremel that should so the trick. The Exhaust clamp would cover the slot anyway.






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adithorp

posted on 8/3/08 at 11:17 PM Reply With Quote
Beat around the join with a hammer. Shock from that will break up any corrosion and will also beat out any crimping from the clamp. On the plus side you won't see any damage once the sill goes back on.

adrian

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MikeRJ

posted on 9/3/08 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Beat around the join with a hammer. Shock from that will break up any corrosion and will also beat out any crimping from the clamp. On the plus side you won't see any damage once the sill goes back on.

adrian


My dad taught me this trick and it's always worked for me.

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adithorp

posted on 9/3/08 at 03:57 PM Reply With Quote
So did mine! It works several times a week for me.

adrian

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rusty nuts

posted on 9/3/08 at 04:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Beat around the join with a hammer. Shock from that will break up any corrosion and will also beat out any crimping from the clamp. On the plus side you won't see any damage once the sill goes back on.

adrian


Find it works better if you use 2 hammers, one as an anvil and the other to hit the pipe.

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Hugh_

posted on 9/3/08 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers for the replies, muchos beeting with a hammer and WD40 over night eventually got the damn thing off. Now the baffle won't shift, currently employing similar techniques, I'm sure I'll get there eventually!






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