les
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:20 PM |
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additional radiator?
hi all,
my avon (2L zetec) struggles to keep cool enough when ina queue or ticking over- on the move its fine. I have a polo rad fitted at the moment, was
thinking of adding a small second radiator (form a motorbike maybe?) as a way of knocking the temp down by a few degrees.
anyone done this or any thoughts on how to plumb one in? I guess a good option would be to plumb it where the heater normally goes?
les
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andy o
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:25 PM |
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is your fan working when it should and correctly positioned?
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:25 PM |
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If you are struggling to cool it with a Polo rad then i'd suggest you have an issue somewhere rather than a lack of cooling ability from the
radiator!!
First thing i'd check is the radiator fan. Bypass the thermostatic switch in the radiator with a short piece of wire with a couple of spade
connectors and see if the fan is working properly and forcing air through the radiator. Otherwise its possible you have an air lock i guess but
unlikely if you arent having issues when on the move but i'd suggest its most likely to be the fan.
[Edited on 7/4/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:26 PM |
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you could use a heater matrix, they can transfer alot of heat for their size and are peanuts from the scrappy
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Guinness
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:28 PM |
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I wired in an additional switch so I can manually turn the fan on for a bit while stuck in traffic.
Although the thermostatic switch operates the fan OK at it's pre-set 87 degrees, I like to have the ability to switch it on myself. Usually
when coming to lights or a traffic jam after a bit of a blast.
Surprising how quickly the temperature comes down with the fan on.
HTH
Mike
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les
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:29 PM |
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hi,
fan is the biggest i could fit on the rad. it cuts in when the temp gets to just under 100, if you leave it ticking over the temp will only very
gradually fall, only getting down to about 95. and if left, the temp never gets low enough for the fan to switch off. as i say once on the move its
seems fine. in a queue it once went to 120, not sure who was sweating the most me or the engine!
not sure on airlocks etc, i have had the system empty a couple of times. with the cap off the expansion tank there seems to be a reasonable flow
through there.
les
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:37 PM |
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Just under 100degC - i'd suggest its time for a new switch then myself so it turns on earlier!!
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les
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 01:57 PM |
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ok, thanks for the replies guys
I got the switch with the kit from tiger- most stuff they supplied was rubbish!!
can anyone give me a part number / source for a switch for polo rad?
les
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:04 PM |
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Water boils under one bar pressure about 115c leaving a fair safety margin.
The normal temperature operating range for a Zetec is 92 to 100c.
Normallly Mondeo fans cut in at 100c and cut out at 93c.
According to the Haynes manual The standard Mondeo thermostat starts to open at 92c and is fully open at 106c
I suspect the root of the problem is the size of the cooing fan, but you need to do some checks before doing anything major.
(1) Check the fan is turning in the correct direction and is mounted close to the radiator.
Using a digtial Wide Range Probe Thermometer:
(2) Check your instrumentation is giving the correct reading.
(3) You need to check the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature -- normally on a Zetec it only starts to open at 92c, I would expect it
to be fully open by 95c
(4) You need to check the fan switch cut in and cut out temperatures.
[Edited on 7/4/08 by britishtrident]
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les
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:10 PM |
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interesting,
I have a mechanical racetech temp guage, which I have fitted into the large hose which comes out of the black thermostat housing- guage was new so
fairly sure it will be right- but maybee the location is not so good?
I should say in all this that it has never actually boiled over even when reading 120!!
les
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
Just under 100degC - i'd suggest its time for a new switch then myself so it turns on earlier!!
Actually some tin top fans don't cut in to well over 100c.
The Mondeo silver top two speed fan switches on at 100c and goes into second speed at 103c.
The Mondeo OEM thermostat starts to open at 92 but has to reach 106 before it is considered full open.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by les
interesting,
I have a mechanical racetech temp guage, which I have fitted into the large hose which comes out of the black thermostat housing- guage was new so
fairly sure it will be right- but maybee the location is not so good?
I should say in all this that it has never actually boiled over even when reading 120!!
les
I still suspect the fan is a bit undersized -- if you can fit an 11" fan Rimmer Brothers have a bulk buy of Rover SD1 Fans imported from India
very very cheap.
Of course I assume you have a thermostat by-pass connection in the plumbing, if not try drilling a couple of 1/8" holes in the plate of the
thermostat to allow some by-pass.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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smart51
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:21 PM |
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If the fan switches on at 100°C and the rad cools slowly then the coolant and rad seem fine. I'd check that the fan is wired the right way
round as it seems to be the cause of the problem.
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les
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:32 PM |
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It does have a thermostat bypass- i think you might be right about the fan though- i bought it new from cbs it is as big a fan as you could fit on the
rad- fitted on the back of the rad, sucking- ill check the direction and wiring, then if no joy i think replace the thermostst bypass plumbing with a
heater type rad plumbed in as the heater and see what happens
les
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meany
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 03:30 PM |
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has it always done this or has it just started happening?.
if its always done this, maybe you still have the 2.0l water pump on, which from reading on here, if you have altered the drive belt route , as most
have to, the pump runs backwards causing ouver heating at tickover.
this is what i have read on here, but i havent done mine yet, so would be interested to hear the outcome.
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