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Author: Subject: Another cooling question
tegwin

posted on 10/10/08 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
Another cooling question

I have been having trouble with cooling my 1.6 Pinto since I built the car...

It has a standard 1.6 pinto, cortina single rox rad and a stonking great sucker fan...


The engine will happily reach normal engine temp and sit there at idle up to about 2000RPM.... But when you drive the car under any load the temp shoots straight up to the start of the red.....

I cant figure out why this is...

Would the cortina rad be up to the job of cooling the pinto?...


When the fan kicks in it blows a lot of air out of the bottom of the car....

Im really getting stuck on this one, I cant drive far because it just gets too hot!


Edited to say...

Its running on a modern pressurized header tank system....and it definitely gets up pressure when its hot...the pipes go rock hard!

[Edited on 10/10/08 by tegwin]





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meany

posted on 10/10/08 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
An airlock?






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phoenix70

posted on 10/10/08 at 05:34 PM Reply With Quote
Have you ducted the nosecome to force all the air through the rad, I had cooling pronblems with my 2L Pinto and ducting the nosecone made the biggest difference to the cooling.
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r1_pete

posted on 10/10/08 at 05:50 PM Reply With Quote
is the head gasket ok, could be blowing into the water kacket at higher revs....






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t16turbotone

posted on 10/10/08 at 05:57 PM Reply With Quote
i would second that! could well be the head gasket gone...
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David Jenkins

posted on 10/10/08 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
Here's a few things to consider...

Is the timing set properly?

Is the dizzy vacuum advance/retard working OK?

Has the fuel mixture been checked under load (i.e. on a rolling road)?

No air leaks, etc. in the inlet system making the mixture go lean when the engine's sucking hard? (I had to be careful that I typed those last 2 words correctly! )

When the engine starts overheating, stop it and check a plug - see if it's the normal colour (light brown). If it's been running really lean it may be coloured white or pale grey. N.B. This is a crude test, but it may give a clue.






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britishtrident

posted on 10/10/08 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
As suggested above Ignition is timing too retarded or not advancing with RPM not unknown for old centrifugal distributers to stick if a car has been laid up or the distributer clean out..

Also check the moving part of distributer base plate isn't floating around quite common on cars with vac advance.

First check the timing at idle with a timing light then, check it is advancing with a timing light at 2500 rpm the ignition should be fully adavanced this generally will be about 32 to 38 crankshaft degrees total adavance with the vac disconnected..

With Lucas distributers remove the rotor arm and put one single drop of oil on the screw and work the spindle back and forth a couple of times. If that dosen't work remove the dizzie and give it a soak in WD40 and clean out.



The Centrafugal advance is the main advance, the vac advance is really an economy device to enable use of weaker mixtures at low throttle openings.



[Edited on 10/10/08 by britishtrident]

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02GF74

posted on 10/10/08 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
The engine will happily reach normal engine temp and sit there at idle up to about 2000RPM.... But when you drive the car under any load the temp shoots straight up to the start of the red.....




3 things.

1. "shoots straight up" - what sort of time are you talking about?
2. you know for sure the water pump impeller is sound?
3. most impoprtantly, do you trust your gauge? if you have faulty gauge/sender or gauge/sender mismatch, it may well show incorrect temp.

4. are there any signes of over ehating e.g. radiator cap blows?
5. is thermostat opening? try without the 'stat to see what happens.

.... but get a theermometer one of the IR ones to measure engine temp.

Itwill be someting simple or really complicated or something in between






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tegwin

posted on 10/10/08 at 11:17 PM Reply With Quote
I have a multimeter connected to a temp probe in the engine....so I can measure the temp to 0.1 degree....

The engine was rebuilt before it went in the car by a company in b_ham, so I assume it is sound...the waterpump was new...

There are no signs of overheating atall....

Thermostat definately opens at around 85 degrees...

the temp shot up to the bottom of the red within 10-15 seconds once I got the car on the road in a 30mph zone...

At idle...or spinning with no load the temperature does not go up that fast...

The engine does hestiate when you open the throttle quickly, I have richened the mixture a bit toi try and stop this...but it is possible that the timing is also the issue there...





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