Westy1994
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posted on 8/10/12 at 03:05 PM |
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Silencer repack on a sealed box?
Having now got the weather gear finally sorted out, I have noticed that the exhaust is far louder inside the car, the exhaust has always been on the
loud side but now it's really not nice with the roof and doors on, so....
Has anyone repacked a sealed Westfield supplied silencer, the one I have is dated 1994 which is about right for it's original build date, I have
read a few posts on cutting a 'letter box' style hole in the side of it and also some posts where folks have cut the end off ( just as
most repackables are done), which method is better?, bearing in mind its a sealed box from WF.
I have spent the afternoon making a cover for the 'letter box' if I go that route, but before I get the grinder out I thought I would ask
the collective...
Rich.
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Davey D
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posted on 8/10/12 at 04:18 PM |
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is the silencer all stainless? if so i would just chop the end cap off, then drill, and fit captive nuts inside the can to make it into a repackable
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Slimy38
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posted on 8/10/12 at 04:34 PM |
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I'd have thought an 'end off' job would make a better job of it, rather than simply packing some loose material into a small slot?
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snapper
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posted on 8/10/12 at 04:57 PM |
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The other option is a rectangle hatch where it can't be seen
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Westy1994
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posted on 8/10/12 at 05:14 PM |
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Yes it is stainless which is why I really don't want to replace it, polished up it looks brand new, just wish the packing was.
I too think cutting the end off would be a neater solution, just one catch with that, I cant see how its built internally, so cutting without knowing
what will happen is a bit of a risk, which is why I mentioned it was a WF supplied can. There is a weld at the end which I assume attaches the
internal tube to the main casing, I gather then that by cutting the end off you also cut this internal perferated tube off as well, as I have no clue
as to how it attaches ?!.
I have a spot planned to put a side slot in it where it is not seen so that is still possible.
[Edited on 8/10/12 by Westy1994]
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StevieB
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posted on 8/10/12 at 05:15 PM |
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I got some acoustafil packing in readiness of needing to do my Westfield silencer (Elvington is my local trackday and noise limits are getting strict,
so figured a re-pack might just help).
When I went to do the filling, I found that it's not a re-packable silencer after all (don't know for the life of me why I didn't
check first).
My thoughts are to cut the end plate away where the tail pipe comes out, leaving a small lip on both the outer tube and around the tail pipe. I would
then get make a stainless plate into a doughnut type shape and rivet to the inner and outer flanges using a bit of sealant.
That's one option - the others are to take it to somewhere and get it properly re-welded and made into a re-packable unit or just get a complete
new silencer from Wunoff or similar which could be a bit bigger and keep noise down better.
I'm going to try option 1 first though, as if it goes wrong the fall back is a paying someone to fix it or a new one anyway.
What could go wrong?
ETA - having seen the pics, my silencer is the same as yours.
Have you tried the WSCC forum?
[Edited on 8/10/12 by StevieB]
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Westy1994
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posted on 8/10/12 at 05:44 PM |
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Thanks Steve, If I were to cut the end off I would most likely cut it about an inch or so inwards, that way it leaves enough material to fasten back
to. I guess your can is the same condition as mine then, externally perfect - just the wadding has gone. I guess thats the price you pay for having a
SS can , even after almost 20 years of life the outside condition is fine.
As you say, if it does not work out then I too would have had to buy a new one anyway, just seems a great shame to bin something just because you
can't maintain it.
I will grab a few cans of courage this week and see if I can have a go at it.
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StevieB
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posted on 8/10/12 at 05:53 PM |
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I suppose if I could find a tube that has an ID to match the OD of the existing can, it would be possible to both ends leaving an inch or so of
material, then remove the middle section of tube, re-pack and fasten the larger tube with sealant and rivets.
My silencer is also in excellent condition, but has the advantage of being fitted with a heat guard too, which helps if I manage to make things work
but it looks a bit on the poor side.
I might be tempted to see if I can find a decent c/f tube to do the job.
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david_l_perry
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posted on 16/10/12 at 02:08 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Westy1994
Having now got the weather gear finally sorted out, I have noticed that the exhaust is far louder inside the car, the exhaust has always been on the
loud side but now it's really not nice with the roof and doors on, so....
Has anyone repacked a sealed Westfield supplied silencer, the one I have is dated 1994 which is about right for it's original build date, I have
read a few posts on cutting a 'letter box' style hole in the side of it and also some posts where folks have cut the end off ( just as
most repackables are done), which method is better?, bearing in mind its a sealed box from WF.
I have spent the afternoon making a cover for the 'letter box' if I go that route, but before I get the grinder out I thought I would ask
the collective...
Rich.
Hi Rich
I stumbled upon this thread last night whilst doing a search online for repacking my westfield silencer......so just registered
I am not far from you myself (Chorley)
I am looking at doing exactly the same thing to the westfield exhaust that is on my Robin Hood that I bought a few months ago.
Its damn loud and pretty sure it wants repacking.
I was going to cut the end off and then make it repackable. What I dont know is if the inner tube is connected to both ends or Just one....???
Dont suppose you are any the wiser yet are you.....?
I dont want to cut one end off only to find the tube is welded to the other end...but that may be the only way to find out
Worst case scenario is having to replace the full silencer......but pretty sure a repack and polish will get it all as new....
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 16/10/12 at 04:42 PM |
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Hi,
No, to be honest I have left it for now. I did take the car along to an engineer mate who thinks there maybe NO packing in it at all !!, that is from
standard, Now I cant confirm this either way at the moment, but if you look at the bottom photo of mine posted above, about a third of the way up
there is a band inside, at this point the can sounds solid as if there is a structure inside. It therefore was suggested that perhaps the WF silencer
was a two part silencer being built from baffles inside and not a straight through pipe with wadding ??.
Also having taken a bit more notice of it recently, I have seen that the portion before the 'band' is at a far higher temp than the rest
of it ( yes I know it's the closest to the engine), just after the 'band' the temp falls rapidly, to the point where once its cooled
enough on the main part you can hold it, whereas the 'banded' section is still too hot to handle ( as they say)
As I say I can't confirm that until I get some kind of endoscope or something to peer inside it, I really don't want to hack it up till I
am sure of it's internal construction first. To be fair, the car is only louder now because of the full screen, doors and roof, before when it
was aeroscreened you could hardly hear it, and having stood away from the car whilst my mate revved it at the weekend it has not got any louder since
the day I bought it - 5 years ago now.
I would appreciate any owners who have opened up a WF can to let me (us) know, as it would be a real shame to hack it up and find it's baffled
instead.
Cheers
Rich.
ETA
David, can you check if you also have this internal band about a 3rd of the way up?, I can't tell from the pics.
[Edited on 16/10/12 by Westy1994]
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david_l_perry
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posted on 17/10/12 at 07:54 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Westy1994
David, can you check if you also have this internal band about a 3rd of the way up?, I can't tell from the pics.
[Edited on 16/10/12 by Westy1994]
There is not an obvious band in the metal case that I can see, but there is a very clear change in the 'heat tarnish' of the outer can,
this would match what you are suggesting......
I have dropped Westfield an email enquiring about how the older silencers are made up....will let you know the outcome
In the meantime the hacksaw is on hold.....
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 17/10/12 at 09:44 PM |
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Hi, yes mine does that, not showing on the photos as I polish it off when it gets noticeable, I did consider emailing WF themselves, but I
haven't had much luck on replies in the past, so I never bothered, hope they back to you and let me know what they say
As your not far away we can have a joint 'opening of the can' ceremony, lol....
Rich
PS. If they don't get back to you let me know and I will have a go at mailing them
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david_l_perry
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posted on 18/10/12 at 01:20 PM |
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Email I sent plus reply today
quote:
Hope you can help
I have an old Stainless Westfield exhaust fitted to my car
I would like to open up the exhaust and repack it as it’s a fair few years old and sounds as though it’s possible lost some of its wadding, it’s very
loud, although this just maybe the way they are as I have no frame of reference
The silencer is not currently repackable, but I was going to cut the end plate off, re pack it and then re-attach it making it repackable for future
maintenance.
Does this older type of silencer have any mid mounted baffles ? some discolouration of the outer body housing would suggest something is different
internally and I don’t want to cut the end plate off to find that I can’t actually repack it.
I currently can’t afford to replace the silencer, and if repairing this unit is possible it would be my first choice
Can you offer any advice on how the older silencers are made up and if they had any mid baffles or packing in them
Many thank in advance
And Email reply :-
quote:
Hi David
The specification silencer you have consists of a perf tube centrally fitted and wadding around the outside.
You would have to cut both the outer sleeve and the perf tube to repack this type.
The problem you will have is rewelding the perf as this is done normally at the same time of build and installation of the tail section.
The design of the non packable system makes it very difficult to cut and repack.
For this reason the repackable specification silencer was designed.
Kind regards mark
Very helpful and very quick
So it sounds like its just standard pipe, but I imagine I will need to cut both ends so I can remove the centre perforated tube to pack it
properly.....I could just cut one end and pack the silencer around the perforated tube, but would not be able to wrap the perforated tube with wire
wool before hand, and form what I have seen, thats the best way to repack....more thought required before the hacksaw comes out. The plus side for me
is that I have a full heat shield that covers the exhaust so that any joins will be hidden
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 18/10/12 at 02:52 PM |
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Thanks for that David, I wonder then what the 'band' is inside mine if it is supposed to be just a tube and wadding?, I am still not
convinced myself, there is definatey some sort of structure inside there, what I have no clue yet.
If what they are saying is true, then maybe the reason that both of ours are discoloured at the same point is that there is a weakness in the wadding
here and possibly a result of the banded bit just before it, seems odd two cars have done the same thing...
Really not sure what to do now, like you, I really can't afford a whole new can when the basic construction is perfectly sound in every way (
other than the silencing aspect) , seems quite odd in a way to construct an almost lifelong product then fill it with wadding that can't be
maintained....., would have better off making a normal steel one which would rust away before the wadding had chance to wear out.....
I may just email them myself now and enclose the pic of the banded section, maybe there are two different tubes in there with wadding and not just one
solid piece oir perhaps a baffle system at the front which then goes onto become a tube and wadding?
I'll keep you posted.
Rich
[Edited on 18/10/12 by Westy1994]
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Westy1994
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posted on 19/10/12 at 11:54 AM |
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Well, there must be someone manning the email account at WF these days, as I too got a fairly fast response... Thanks WF.
Anyway, as suspected I think my can is the type with the resonator in it, there is more than just a band in there given the sound of it when
it's tapped.
Quote from WF
Early silencers had support bands for the perf within the shroud, some of them also ran a separate res chamber. The built and sealed silencers
are not made to be dismantled. I explained this in the earlier mail to your collegue. If you are members of a club and a few of you are looking for
silencers Im sure we could do a deal on supply. I know your trying to save money doing this but this is not the advised route cutting the standard
silencer.
Wonder what they would charge then for a new one?, would you be interested David, or anyone else reading this post?
Rich.
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cerbera
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posted on 19/10/12 at 01:20 PM |
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If you're thinking of buying a new Westfield exhaust have a chat with 907 on here first.
He made a repackable exhaust for a mate of mine, with a Westy, and he was very chuffed with the item he received and saved a bit of money over a
Westfield item.
Do a search for him on here and I'm sure you'll find lots of satisfied customers.
His website.
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david_l_perry
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posted on 19/10/12 at 08:37 PM |
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your email reply makes more sense than the response I got about the build up of the exhaust.
I would love to go for a new silencer, but just can't afford to shell out a couple of hundred £ at the moment so I will still look at the repack
as the initial solution. If it all goes tits up then I will need to sort a replacement and sell one of my children.
If I go ahead with the repack I will of course post the method and results !
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 19/10/12 at 09:16 PM |
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Dave, let me know when you intend to do this, I would be interested in seeing inside one for myself, my problem and one I did see coming, is that
currently the 7 is my only car so cutting up the can to find I need a new one in the end is really not an option. I too have issues spending cash on
what is basically a sound can only to have to replace it because you can't maintain it's internals.
cheers
Rich
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david_l_perry
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posted on 19/10/12 at 09:21 PM |
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Will give you a shout when i plan on cutting the silencer rich and you can come and watch and share a brew and laugh as we realise i have just messed
it all up.....
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 19/10/12 at 09:23 PM |
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Dave, just sent you a U2U with my email address
ETA.
We posted at the same time almost, yes please do.
Rich
[Edited on 19/10/12 by Westy1994]
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indykid
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posted on 19/10/12 at 10:27 PM |
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Have a look at this guide Avoneer wrote up here for my solution I did with
him.
Not a westfield silencer, but even if you had to cut and pack from both ends, it's dead easy to do.
If you do have to cut the perforated tube (all the cans I've done so far have been slip jointed onto tube stubs at the end so don't just
plough straight through in one go!) I'd roll a strip into a ring and weld it to the perf tube to make your own close fitting slip joint.
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david_l_perry
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posted on 20/10/12 at 07:41 AM |
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Nice one, exactly what i was planning on doing, didnt think mastic would be happy with the heat, but looks like it would. Cool. Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 20/10/12 at 01:59 PM |
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Thanks Indykid, I have to admit I had thought I had read a thread somewhere on the net about this , but was unable to find it again, I am pretty sure
thats the one I saw years ago.
As Dave says, thats what I had in mind also, I see no reason why that method is not feasible with a WF can. Obviously WF themselves will not recommend
such a mod, as they just want to sell you a whole new can.
Got your email Dave.
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david_l_perry
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posted on 28/10/12 at 08:58 AM |
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Well here we go Rich:-
Had a few hours yesterday whilst the monkeys where at the sister in laws so decided to get the hacksaw out....
It was an easy job to cut around the casing with the hacksaw, but withdrawing the pipe was real hard work.
The centre perforated pipe is welded to a mid baffle that is a tight push fit, so it took a lot of pulling and shouting to get it out...
I assume the front short section has the same arrangement only shorter as you can see a second baffle inside the main tube after taking out the rear
section.
But here it is, showing very little remaining wadding.
Got it repacked, inner joint band of stainless cut and fitted and then all re fitted. My exhaust is covered by a heat shield so I was not to
concerned with how it looked, but it came out ok.
And here it is mounted back on the car with the heat shield
It was a real pain to do to be honest, but at least I now know its repacked. Only a run out will tell me if its really made a noticeable difference
or not, as starting it up in the garage sounded no different to me at all.........
Hope that's of use Rich !
If its made bugger all difference it will being replaced with a wunoff unit next year I think....
Dave
Mid life crisis made me buy a Robin Hood 2B, 2.1Pinto with ZX6 carbs - now fitted with a Jag SType 3.0 V6Loving it !
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Westy1994
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posted on 28/10/12 at 01:36 PM |
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Thanks Dave, thats a huge help. You have also solved the mystery of the 'banded' section in what I see on mine. That disc at the end of
your removed part is what I am seeing, I think mine has expanded somewhat and is forcing the outer case outwards ( which is why it is more visible on
my can) also you you mention a section at the front with 'another' tube in it, this is also what I assumed to be the 'baffled'
section ( as per what WF told me in the email).
As regards actual noise from the repacked system, I think you will find that once on the road and in the open it will be better, garages are not the
best place to judge sound, as the waves bounce off all the walls. What I need to do is either borrow or buy a DB meter, this would be the ultimate
test as to how much a repack helps. In my racing days I used to ring up the local MSA noise tester and meet up somewhere , he tested my car for a
fiver or so - far cheaper than failing noise during scrutineering at an event.
Keep me posted on wether you think it is better , once we get some dry weather..... its a tad wet here today.....
Rich.
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