daniel mason
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| posted on 21/10/12 at 01:54 PM |
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any hayabusa experts? loads of questions for install
hi all am almost ready to start the fitment if my new engine.(hopefully in 2 weekends time) and have many questions regarding electrics, oil and fuel
systems.
1;i have a second hand SBD dry sump kit and when holding the oil pump and turning the input shaft (no oil inside) it seems very notchy turning one
direction and quite stiff the other direction! is this normal?
2; i have a large radical dry sump tank which is rectangular in shape, will this be ok as ive read squarer shaped tanks can lead to trapped air in the
oil? is this correct or will a cooler on the tank return sort the problem out?
3;what oil capacity should i run in the dry sump setup?
4;is there a set position to mount the d/s tank? eg higher or lower than oil pump? i understand they need to be as close to engine as possible to
retain high pressure.
5; i am wanting to monitor oil temp and oil pressure on my dash,so wheres the best place to measure these? the d/s tank has a temp sensor built into
it but id have thought the oil would be a fair bit cooler there than at the engine? and what about pressure sensor with a dry sump setup?
6;i have an mbe 992 ecu and bosch electric waterpump, can the waterpump be controlled by the mbe?
7;with regards to the fuel system i currently have a external high pressure pump from my last injected engine and a nice fpr! do i need a fuel swirl
pot and another low pressure pump? if not where do i pipe up my fpr into the fuel line?
sorry for all the questions and cheers
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Andy B
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| posted on 21/10/12 at 04:16 PM |
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Hi Daniel,
I have fitted up a fair few of these as they are amongst the best systems in my opinion, below I have tried to answer your queries in order
1 definitely not, the pump should be smooth and free running, what you describe sounds like debris has passed through the rotors - do notuseit like
this
2 the key to a good dry sump system is proper deaeration of the oil, in my experience the tank design,internal baffling and cyclone effect are
massively important and for this reason any tank that is not round in section is compromised
3 we normally fill the tank so that there is 10 mm of oil over the top baffle, then start up and with engine running bring the level back up to just
over the baffle again
4 we normally mount the base of the tank pretty much on the floor of the car
5 you need to get a temp and pressure sender onto the main oil gallery or as close as possible as this where the figures really matter
6 I believe you can, speak to Damian at Daytuner he is a font of knowledge on the MBE set ups
7 Give me a call on Monday and I'll talk you through fuel set up and any other questions
Hope that helps
Andy
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daniel mason
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| posted on 21/10/12 at 04:43 PM |
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top man,cheers. im concerned about the pump as it feels like cogs grinding,but un sure as ive never used one before! cheers
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