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Author: Subject: How to dismantle RV8 manifold?
coozer

posted on 5/8/13 at 03:20 PM Reply With Quote
How to dismantle RV8 manifold?

So here is the middle part of my EFI inlet manifold I want to take apart.

Basically i want all the steel trumpets out of the ali base plate. They are pushed in quite a way and dead flush inside, there looks to be some kind of sealant present as well.

I want to replace the trumpets with 45 SS bends.

Whats the best way to get them out?







1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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mark chandler

posted on 5/8/13 at 04:18 PM Reply With Quote
Heat them with a blow torch which ruins the sealant then pull out
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r1_pete

posted on 5/8/13 at 04:30 PM Reply With Quote
Are we having 8 bike carbs??
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coozer

posted on 5/8/13 at 04:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Are we having 8 bike carbs??


Yes indeed, was going to MS the injection but there was a comp racer in one of the Landy mags with bike carbs that look the dogs and was fast as

Plus probably lot easier than trying to set the MS up (again!)







1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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chrism

posted on 5/8/13 at 08:15 PM Reply With Quote
Getting all 8 synced is probably going to be fun.





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A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
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coozer

posted on 5/8/13 at 09:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chrism
Getting all 8 synced is probably going to be fun.


Dead easy mate





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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Agriv8

posted on 6/8/13 at 06:59 AM Reply With Quote
warmed mine in the oven and twisted them out.

ATB Agriv8





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mcerd1

posted on 6/8/13 at 07:28 AM Reply With Quote
some inspiration for you...









-

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BaileyPerformance

posted on 6/8/13 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
last time i did it we just used splash of thinners around the base (soak overnight) and the trumpets came out.

If you want a rover to go well the only real way of getting decent power is forced induction, even a 5.5L struggles to make 350BHP NA.

We have tuned almost every combination of tuning goodies on a Rover, from 3.5 to 5.5. We did the fasted landrover in the UK (santa pod competition afew years ago) We also did a drag racing TVR, 4.6L on megasquirt, 300BHP with a 250 shot of gas on a STOCK bottom end, still going strong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B64qG0iAZeE (probably been beaten by now buy we are working on it, it has 2 M90 blowers now!!)

The twin turbo 4.6L TVR we mapped made 415BHP and 600lf/ft Tq at 20PSI of boost, again a stock bottom end.

If you are into off roading a simple blower conversion (assuming its within your racing rules) on a 3.9L on megasquirt will give you all the power you need, much more you'll just start to snap driveline bits.

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scudderfish

posted on 6/8/13 at 09:45 AM Reply With Quote
<thread_hijack>
What blowers work well with a Rover V8, say one of 4.3 capacity?
</thread_hijack>

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BaileyPerformance

posted on 6/8/13 at 11:56 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by scudderfish
<thread_hijack>
What blowers work well with a Rover V8, say one of 4.3 capacity?
</thread_hijack>


Eaton M112 off F150 pickup truck, available from states used.

Will work ok non-intercooled but charge temps are too hight really. Intercool if poss if not water injection.

The best all round blower is a centrifugal type such as Procharger but these are expensive.

The power per cc of a rover v8 has always been poor, but with minor mods and a blower you can get decent power and great drivability without spending loads. Gear a M112 for 12psi of boost on a 4.3l and you will see 320bhp with bags of grunt from idle

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r1_pete

posted on 6/8/13 at 12:28 PM Reply With Quote
Stop it you lot, I really fancy building something with a V8 now, and I've a couple of sets of R1 carbs as per that Bogg Bros picture

Steve, I must see pictures of your progress........

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richardm6994

posted on 6/8/13 at 12:46 PM Reply With Quote
I was dead chuffed that my v8 sat under the bonnet without any big cut outs.......however now you mention blowers I could make an exception....

mmmmmm.....the roar of a V8 make a bike engine sound like a screaming baby






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mcerd1

posted on 6/8/13 at 01:45 PM Reply With Quote
you mean like this...







-

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coozer

posted on 6/8/13 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Stop it you lot, I really fancy building something with a V8 now, and I've a couple of sets of R1 carbs as per that Bogg Bros picture

Steve, I must see pictures of your progress........


Ok, will take plenty pics as I go on.

Mr. Bailey, I'm not after tons of power as I know trying to get Rover V8 up is very expensive. I was thinking of using a Ford 302 to get 300bhp but just at the moment I'm OK for the RV8. All I'm after is the grumbling sound

I think it may be about 190bhp and hopefully my jeep will be around 1000kg.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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BaileyPerformance

posted on 6/8/13 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Stop it you lot, I really fancy building something with a V8 now, and I've a couple of sets of R1 carbs as per that Bogg Bros picture

Steve, I must see pictures of your progress........


Ok, will take plenty pics as I go on.

Mr. Bailey, I'm not after tons of power as I know trying to get Rover V8 up is very expensive. I was thinking of using a Ford 302 to get 300bhp but just at the moment I'm OK for the RV8. All I'm after is the grumbling sound

I think it may be about 190bhp and hopefully my jeep will be around 1000kg.


Stick a stock pair of SUs on it, if you run K&N filters you will need different needles. Use the early type dizzy with the larger bulkhead mounted ignition module, no vacuum connected to the dizzy, set timing at 36degrees at 4000rpm. Bike carbs will give you virtually nothing and cost more that a stock SU setup, on fact you may loose power with bike carbs if you chose the wrong ones, you need 45s, most bike carbs are smaller that 45.

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