I took my 12 month rebuilt 893 Locoblade for its first journey at speeds of over 30 mph today.
All was well until I went to change up from 4th and could I hell find 5th gear! Tried it with the engine on and off, at all sorts of speeds etc, but
to no avail.
I remember when I bought it that the owner (Ceebmoj on here) mentioned something to do with speed/rev matching in certain gears, but I can't
remember exactly what he said!
Am I being daft?! Any input would be great!
Just for interest, here's the car in question ........
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Building: Magenta LSR Ver 2.2.3 AKA Tupperware Turd
posted on 8/3/15 at 10:24 PM
Not wanting to sound daft but are you counting the one down and the rest up?! ie. You're not counting first? I only mention it as I had a bloke
who wanted me to fix his bike as he couldn't find five gears. He hadn't realised first was down and the rest up!
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Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 8/3/15 at 11:02 PM
You do not need to speed match going up the box, just foot off the gas and nudge it into the next gear, you will need the clutch coming down. It
sounds like you need to drop the sump and have a looksee for something bent
Haha, yes! Callan was telling me about that when I bought a spare engine off him.
Before I delve too deeply, could it be that my gear lever pivot point isn't far enough back?
Obviously I push the stick, which pulls the gear sleeve for 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th, does it need to pull the same amount for 5th as is does for the
others?
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Building: Magenta LSR Ver 2.2.3 AKA Tupperware Turd
posted on 9/3/15 at 08:05 AM
It shouldn't need to move any further to get each gear. It selects and then returns to the same place each time so if you can get one gear, you
should be able to get them all!
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Building: Hatred of Loughborough's Speed Humps
posted on 9/3/15 at 09:09 AM
Simple to take apart, so just do it.
Sound likes a drum/forks failure of some kind.
My experience with the 893 was that the gear dogs were made from the same chocolate as used in the later R1 device. Clearly unlikely to be an issue
here, since the damage is normally self-limiting, they round/break off making holding a gear difficult.
The 893 dogs aren't undercut (or weren't on any of my gearboxes), making damaging things far easier.
If you require a Haynes Blade manual (92-99), I do have one, favourably priced, in good health.
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Building: My car is history now, burnt out,
posted on 9/3/15 at 09:10 AM
Before you rip the engine down, is it possible to remove the gear linkage on the engine, and add a bike gear lever
and try again to see if the gears are actually there
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
What happens when you go for 5th, does it just stay in 4th or do you get a false neutral? Does the gearlever still move the full distance as though
it's changing gear?
Thanks for the ideas everyone.
Mike, it feels like it's hitting 'the end of the line' when I try to find 5th. all the other gears are definite notches, whereas 5th
feels like its jamming/hitting against something. If I try to change into 5th, I hit this stop and it just stays in 4th.
It doesn't jump into/out of any other gears and 1 up to 4 is as easy as 4 down to 1.
This may (probably will) sound stupid, but are you trying to move the lever 5 times? from first to fifth is only 4 movements.
Don't mean to offend, but stranger things happen
Haha, I've done dafter things, that's for sure!
But no, I've currently got 1st back and 2, 3, 4 forward, plus when I'm doing 40mph+ its revving more than it should be if I was in 5th
accidentally
I don't know as I am not familiar with bike engines, but when you pull to shift I assume you are moving an arm on the gearbox, does this arm
return to a "neutral" position, or does it have a 1,N,2,3,4,5 positions? If so could it be that when it tries for fourth it is fowling
on something?
quote:Originally posted by Boylers11
No Matt, I haven't tried slipping the clutch, but will give it a go this week. Looks like we're both having issues at the moment!
Yes, theduck, that is the sequence of gears, but the stick returns to the same neutral point after each gear.
Luckily I have a couple of spare engines I can open up and practice on before I start taking the main one to pieces!
If I do start stripping it down, is there a good online guide anywhere or will my Haynes manual cover it?
I thought it probably would but just the way you described it sounded like it ccould be fowling on something.
Take the sump off the engine in the car, jack the front as high as you can so you can get under and have a good look too
There's no need to practice on another engine as all you can do is look, if you see anything there its an engine out jobby anyway.
While your looking up into the engine, if there's nothing obvious then flick the gear lever and try and get it into all the gears, this might
reveal something, you'll probably need someone to help as it will be easier for them to sit in the car and use the gear lever and clutch if
needed to allow it to go in all the gears.
Right, rather large update on this issue (thanks for the help previously).
I took the car out round the block a couple of times on Saturday morning. I found 5th and 6th eventually, by keeping the gear lever held forward
slightly longer before it 'clunked' into gear like the other gears. All was fine until I was in 5th on my way home ~40mph, then I lost all
drive altogether in any gear, so I pulled over.
The engine was making a fowl noise (like something broken inside being chucked around) and not one gear would give me drive, so I was thinking, get
towed home, then sump off time for engine/gearbox rebuild.
I was being towed home (with my foot on the clutch as I wasn't sure where I was in the gearbox), then the rear near side half shaft jumps out
and I'm on 3 wheels, so we stopped and I waited for the RAC.
So I'm presuming that the gearbox had jammed, causing the propshaft to lock and the half shaft to be spat out of the English axle!! (The brand
new wheel bearing remained in the axle).
So now, I am left with major work and a car on 3 wheels!
I have 2 spare engines of unknown condition, so do I:
1.) Rebuild the current engine/gearbox with spares from the other engine?
or
2.) Bolt my carbs onto a spare engine and hope it works?
Then do I rebuild the rear axle completely or try and source another one?
My main worry is that the half shaft came loose and slid out of the axle. The bearing was fitted correctly and was extremely tight, but as there are
no drum retaining blots, it's the sheer tightness of the rear wheel bearing that holds the whole thing in place!
Any advice/suggestions would be great, as I'm currently at the end of my tether.
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Building: Built - Fury '06R1 ...now on with the mods
posted on 16/3/15 at 02:35 PM
As DW says, that doesn't quite add up.
I'd suggest the bearing wasn't fitted correctly and allowed the shaft to come out. As the splines have left the diff, you lost all drive
(and you'd get a racket from the engine/transmission). Then you've tries towing and the shaft has come out completely.
The only way the shaft can do that is if the retaining collar isn't fitted correctly or the bearing retaining cover bolts come out.
Fix the shaft first and get someone to check what you've done. Then ifthere's still no drive look at the engine.
A BEC without a load on the gearbox sounds as if the box is dropping out.
I agree with the previous comments re the axle, and would say that you have too much travel on the gear lever, making gear changes difficult, I had
50mm movement each way.
........ 
