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Author: Subject: Preserving Engines
kingr

posted on 17/11/02 at 01:31 AM Reply With Quote
Preserving Engines

Having got my 1600 xflow out of the dead Xr2 at last and mounted it on the engine stand (half killing myself in the process - no engine crane), I'd like to know how to make sure it doesn't degrade while it's waiting to be run again since it could be a while. Is it a good idea to turn it over on a regular basis to stop it from seizing? And if so, should I leave the crank in the same place between turns?

Also, where on earth is the engine coolant drain plug, the haynes manual mentions it in passing, I couldn't find it with the engine in the car, and I'll be blowed if I can find it even now, I'm guessing it's a bad idea to leave the coolant in the engine.

Finally - Dave Walker, you were right, it does only have two lugs on one side, but it's got plenty of other places to mount it from, so I can't see it being too big a problem.

For those that are interested, clearance between the webber 40s (or more precisely, the manifold for them) and the dizzy seems ok, close but ok, and should be fine once I fit right angle HT leads.

Kingr

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david walker

posted on 17/11/02 at 01:01 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah, you'll find plenty of ways to mount the XR2 block. Would certainly be easier than say a Zetec and they now seem to be a commonplace installation - with good reason too.

You'll not be able to fully, as in totally, drain the block but that won't be a problem. Water drain plug should be in side of block (exhaust side). It's about 5/8" af. Wouldn't bother though if I were you. You will have lost as much water as you are going to when you removed bottom hose.

A thimble full of engine oil down each plug hole will preserve bores etc. Turn over a couple of times and then replace plugs. Bung up manifold holes and distributor hole as best you can to keep condensation out. If you can do that then turning over every couple of months would be enough to keep all OK.

40's on a 1600 are not a problem, although it is still tight getting to distributor when unit is in the car. On a 1300 it's a real problem though as block is a good inch shorter.





Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277

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stephen_gusterson

posted on 17/11/02 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
why not just pour some neat anti freeze into the block? That will stop freezing problems.

atb

steve






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johnston

posted on 17/11/02 at 06:40 PM Reply With Quote
ah but pure anti-freeze freezes


was lookin at the blucol drums in work 33% takes u down to about minus 30c or sumit but 50/50 only goes down 2 minus 20c

that and the fact on of the guys put it down the forklift ramp to stop it freezeing and went on his ass the next day makes me pretty sure it will freeze






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bob

posted on 17/11/02 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
Why not try putting nout in block as nout cant freeze






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bsilly

posted on 17/11/02 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
dont leave the crank in the same position..with no oil in the sump/oilways if yer leave it in same position yer will get pitting on the cam and rocker gear where it in touch with push rods an tappets...dont know how but it does.. dont worry about freezing..surely you have got the motor on a stand to strip it down anyway......





mainly digger drivin me

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stephen_gusterson

posted on 17/11/02 at 11:49 PM Reply With Quote
bob

- i was assuming he cant be sure of getting all the water out.....

johnston....


really??? that sounds weird. Anythign I have ever seen shows that the more antifreeze the lower the freeze temp - but i dont recall seeing more than 50% mix. Take another look at the tin.....that makes no sense.


atb

steve






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Viper

posted on 18/11/02 at 12:09 AM Reply With Quote
too much anti freeze and you get less protection, its a fact






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charlie

posted on 18/11/02 at 12:23 AM Reply With Quote
If an engine is left without being turned over things will sieze. This might not be a problem if your going to rebuild it but if you intend to run it as it is you might not have sufficient compression in the cylinders due to siezed piston rings.
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bob

posted on 18/11/02 at 09:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
bob

- i was assuming he cant be sure of getting all the water out.....

Steve
I dont think a tiny bit of water will matter too much,as david posted earlier there will not be very much water in there when bottom hose comes off.






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johnston

posted on 18/11/02 at 11:00 PM Reply With Quote
yeah i looked twice cos last year they said 50% took u to -50c

but have also been told by a guy who worked in russia they had to ship it out ready mixed to stop it freezin on the way over

(he was in army or sumit canny remember for sure)

oh aye and we also had to find space for 80 of the big drums in our warehouse for the b@£terdin stuff and they use the shittyest pallets availble






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dirtbike123

posted on 18/11/02 at 11:53 PM Reply With Quote
Preserving

If you have any kind of uprated valve springs it's not advisable to leave the pushrods sprung against the Cam or else you run the risk pitting the cam.
You could just lift the head which is easy enough, to take the pressure off of the valve springs.
Regards
Nick

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