nib1980
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 07:39 AM |
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A Few Questions from the weekend
Morning all,
I hope your all well.
I have a few questions from the weekend I was hoping you could help me with.
The Facts.
1. I have a 1.3 crossflow running twin webbers and megajolt.
2. I have plumbed the heater line from the water pump and now defunct line from the webbers into the bottom of the header tank.
3. I'm using Caterham gauges (CAI by any other name)
The questions
1. I'm convinced I have a air lock in the coolant circuit, I've filled the header, the radiator, and the thermostat housing on the
engine, how can i check? there are some photos in my archive
2. currently I have only a oil warning light, I want the run the oil pressure gauge, and the oil warning light, how can this be done? some kind on a
tee piece in the engine oil pressure outlet? where can these be bought from?
3. What fuel level sensors are you all using? not the dip stick method! I have a gauge I'd like to use.
4. does anyone know if the rev counter output on megajolt will work with the cai gauges?
many thanks in advance
fingers crossed with this info i can try and start it this week!
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saigonij
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 08:08 AM |
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ETB instruments sell a oil pressure and warning light sensor yo umight be able to use.
they also sell a fuel level sensor too.
in terms of air lock.... try running the engine with the rad cap off for 5 mins to let the air to the top. also make sure the header tank is above
the rad, so its the highest thing - air shoudl then travel to the highest point ( in my theory anyway! )
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paulf
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 08:52 AM |
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I would drill a 3mm hole in the thermostat if it doesnt already have one. It is also a good idea to run a small bore pipe, 8mm will do from the
thermostat housing to the header tank to allow air to escape from the thermostat area which is most likely the highest point in the system apart from
the header tank.
You megajolt is a v3 which has a 12v tacho output and should operate most modern tachos.
Fuel level sensor needs to be matched to the gauges to be accurate or else you will most likely end up with a gauge that reads incorrectly at one end
of the scale .
Oil pressure connection just needs a tee peice as you suspected.
Paul.
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scutter
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 08:55 AM |
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I'd say your header tank is the air lock, I'd say the hoses from pump and manifold should be joined to one another and the header tank
plumbed into the lower rad hose with a take off from the top of the thermostat housing.
That said, i changes top a closed system/expansion bottle and i works even better than the system above.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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paulf
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 09:01 AM |
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I thought that at first, but thinking about it theres not a great difference between teeing the 2 pipes together at the pump or header tank.On my
installation i had a pipe from the header tank to the water pump and joined the manifold outlet into the middle of it with a tee.
The main problem i had was getting the air out of the thermostat housing.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by scutter
I'd say your header tank is the air lock, I'd say the hoses from pump and manifold should be joined to one another and the header tank
plumbed into the lower rad hose with a take off from the top of the thermostat housing.
That said, i changes top a closed system/expansion bottle and i works even better than the system above.
ATB Dan.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/5/07 at 10:03 AM |
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Drill a couple of 3/16" holes in the thermostat -- helps a lot when filling/bleeding.
Also what rad are you running ? If you have a pressure cap on the rad it will cause air locks.
Pressure cap should be at the highest point of system or on the header tank which should be connected to highest point in the system eg the thermostat
housing.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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