To go back to your throttle shaft setup, could you use an 8mm or so central shaft and rose joints?
I had the same issue, although mine's a straight 6, of not wanting to stress one shaft more than the other, here's what I did, you could
do similar if you reverse a set of bodies...
my gosh it has been ages! I am terrible at updating frequently and unfortunately I managed to double upload my pics to my google+ album, deleted one
of them, which unfortunately was the one the previous posts where using.
So, I think lots has happened, made a bracket for the VR sensor, got the MS wired up for 4 spark outputs, decided to go for LS2 coils (for fun), wired
everything up, (some with temporary connector blocks whilst I sussed it out) turned it over and proved that things seem to work with it all wired up.
ie I can hear the injectors clicking and can see sparks.
I've just got a swirl pot and am ready to plumb it in with a test setup at the back of the car.(out on the floor behind the car!)
thought I better get a post up as hopefully in a few days I will have tried to start it and will be amazed to see how well the tunerstudio auto tune
feature works!
some pics:
Yes I know I might have to switch a TB bank round in the future..
went for a LC2 innovate wideband controller..
the joy of wires!
embarrassed my self by thinking the starter wasn't engaging on the flywheel. turned out it was fine and I just could see it! Had the spark
plugs out and all I could hear was electric motor whine. sorted the VR sensor wiring so it read something and got a reading.
(I have a deadline decision to make, ie pay remainder of skcc euro trip money by the end of the month, so have to see if it runs and how confident I
am I can finish it by May!)
not sure about the yellow fuel, it has been sitting since last March.. That is what is left after a few days sitting, so it has vented off alot.
Aim for an idle of 13afr just to get it running clean and get the throttles balanced, then lean it off abit of the idle quality remains good. If you
end up with I rich idle it doesn't really matter unless you are running CATS
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Just watched your vid, sounded like it kicked back on the starter, double chk your trigger wheel settings (if not using EDIS) and set your cranking
timing a 10.
Double chk with a strobe light that the timing on the engine matches the laptop. Dual back type strive lights don't work properly on a wasted
spark system. You need a basic strobe light without timing control.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
Just a thought, cool headers on odd cylinders may also be a slight inlet leak (i.e. running a bit lean)? Had a nightmare getting my Zetec to run until
I found that there were leaks around the injectors and then on the inlet manifold gasket.
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
Photo Archive
Building: Fisher Fury 4.3 V8 with Speeduino
posted on 22/2/15 at 09:52 AM
quote:Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
quote:Originally posted by scudderfish
Excellent
Now do everything Dale tells you.
Scudderfish,
How your v8 going? I remember some concerns about a slightly cool header (conpaired to rest) I also remember it made good power anyway!
New job has got in the way of most stuff. I've learnt I'm to very good at bodywork/painting making the hole in my bonnet for the carb hat
look better I'm now just sizing up a new fuel tank. When I've had the car out, it still scares the crap out of me The header
wasn't a real issue, just me being able measure something with too much accuracy and worrying about nothing too soon. I may come and visit this
summer for a couple of ideas I have.
Dale you are right, I haven't go so far as to balance them. For just a start I was going with the paint marks being lined up from how they were
in the bike. (knowing each bank could be different)
Would you believe that morning I had rushed out early to get a spark tester (one of those pen type ones that works by being near the wires) and a
Gunson G4113 timing light
all machinemart had and both of which didn't work ! yet to double check this against the zafira.
inlet manifold gasket for the air leak, is perhaps a likely contender. I did notice water was getting into the oil, so perhaps that corner is not
quite right. I'll have to look into that.
I still seem to have a long list to go..:
get swirl pot and HP pump fitted into the boot and rear panel.
decided that after hearing the LP pump noise in the video that that is just gonna have to get replaced.
rear tub off, replace fuel pipes up to sender unit as they are starting to crack and are probably too old for current fuel.
replace the seals on the push in drive shafts diff end.. not gonna pass and mot with them as they are.
moving forward, get the passenger footwell wiring all tidied up and fixed back up.
get MS fixed to tunnel or somewhere similar.
engine bay area
fix coolant to oil leak
get trumpets to right height to fit under scoop
balance TBs
check timing as we did think it was perhaps a bit off, we did check it again by removing no1 spark plug and seemed ok. shame no timing light...
brain area - learn MS more, and fuel maps!
all good, fun, and still feels great to have gotten it to fire up
so I have double checked which tooth is next the to VR sensor at TDC. It matches up to the TDC mark on the crank pully and also when we take plug
number one out and watch a pencil come to the top and start dropping down.
I also tried setting it to tooth 27, 25 and 24... using the spreadsheet to calculate the numbers for MS. Tehy would all idle but none let me apply
any throttle.. am I way off?
Sorry if I am teaching granny to suck the proverbial, stating the obvious etc., but are the plug leads/coilpack/ecu/injectors all connected up and
firing in the right order?
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
I may have the totally wrong end of the stick here (most probably have!) But shouldn't the VR sensor be opposite the fifth tooth?
Or is that only for EDIS8?
It is a good point. I really should triple check the coils go to the right plug.
As the tester I bought failed me, I think I will do a manual check, ie take the plugs out and see which ones fire when I just have the connected coil
connected.
No 1 cylinder is the front right as you look at the radiator?
Using ms to control the spark, thus can choose which tooth.
Photo Archive
Building: Fisher Fury 4.3 V8 with Speeduino
posted on 23/2/15 at 10:05 PM
quote:Originally posted by Chris_Xtreme
It is a good point. I really should triple check the coils go to the right plug.
Work on the assumption that every one you look at is actually wrong until you have categorically proved and documented that it is not. Check MS to
coil pack and coil pack to spark plug. Stick post it notes on the rocker covers numbered 1-8 so that you don't lose track of which is which as
you are walking around the car. Do something similar with the coil packs. Have the firing order written down somewhere large that you can easily
see.
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