joneh
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| posted on 7/1/21 at 07:44 AM |
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After following all the tips above, the new gasket weeps, albeit a lot less than the previous one. I can see a small weep from the center of the
block exhaust side. I can't see any evidence of it dripping into the oil though, or if it is, it's not enough to see.
The only thing I haven't done, is source another torque wrench to check the torques. Just checking, it's acceptable to re-use the head
gasket right? No heat has been applied, just fitted.
If my torque wrench is out, I'll need to strip the engine down and re-torque the big end, if my torque wrench is fine, then I can only assume my
head or block are warped. Either way, I'll probably end up taking the head off.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 05:20 PM |
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Hi Ya,
I have just rebuilt my engine, along with a brand new head. I was told to make sure the engine top was extremely clean and level checked, and the new
head was also machined to make sure it was level. I used a brand new head gasket and I have been told not to use a pre used gasket as they
wouldn't last long.
I have now got my engine running , although a bit louder than I thought a newly rebuilt x/flow would be a a bit quieter but hey ho, at least it lives
again and this time without any leaks now after having to re-seat the water pump.
My head gasket was dry fitted along with the instructions from an escort service book.
Jason
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joneh
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 05:56 PM |
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I've taken the head off again, block sanded with wet and dry and refitted. I got a new torque wrench and oiled the bolts before fitting to see
if that helps.
I've checked with a straight edge and torch and can't see any warping but I guess it may be out if it weeps again. It's been a few
hours so far and no sign. Before I was getting one tiny drip over night. I'm probably worrying too much about it, but thinking it'll get
worse under pressure.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 06:04 PM |
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That sounds good then, good luck, I still have a few jobs to do, the list never gets smaller as new ones always keep popping up after each afternoon
working on these cars so keep your head up, eventually things work out 
Jason
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02GF74
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 07:34 PM |
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Worrying about it?? There should be no leaks. Use tissues or dust talc over the area to detect leaks.
My friend who has a caterham, and is probably smarter and more competent mechanic than most on here, well more than me at least, bollocksed up fitting
his aluminium head. There was a sliver of gasket folded over by the hole for the water passage that let go when car was being tuned for TBs.
158 Bhp from 1700 crossflow in case you were wondering.
[Edited on 9/1/21 by 02GF74]
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joneh
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 08:00 PM |
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Third time lucky. Looks ok after 8 hours. Will see once I rebuild and turn it over. It's a 1300 with an fast road cam, so not big power or
anything. The weep was so minor, just one tear of sadness under the exhaust manifold.
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02GF74
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 08:10 PM |
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Good luck but if you have problems I have complete 1300 engine, head removed, was running well.
Replaced it by a 1660 engine.
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joneh
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 08:37 PM |
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Ta, will keep that in mind.
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steve m
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 08:57 PM |
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"and oiled the bolts before fitting to see if that helps."
Ive never done that! but i have run a die over the bolts, and a tap in the block, turn the block over, and blow the crud out of the head bolt thread
holes
Why did you oil the head bolts ? as all that will do on a xflow is let them slowley untighten themselves
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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joneh
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 09:15 PM |
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Someone mentioned a drop of oil helps with torqing correctly. May have been on here or somewhere else. Will check them again when I finally get it
running and up to heat.
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steve m
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 09:25 PM |
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Ive never put oil in there, but once the engine has been run, for 20 mins at the very minimum wait till it cools, not long in these temps !!
take the rockers shaft off, (stupid design!) and re torque the head,
Now, i did the whole process again, as in restart, 20 mins idling let it cool off , shaft off again, re torque, shaft back on, re do the valve
clearances, and job done
But thats down to you, but that is what i did
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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joneh
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 09:31 PM |
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That's basically the plan, although I've got to time the ignition once its rebuilt.
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02GF74
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 10:15 PM |
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The head bolts are what, 70 lb ft ? I doubt they will come undone even with oil. All the oil will do it to reduce friction meaning that you end up
putting more stress on the bolts, and if too much oil, then you can crack the block due to applying pressue to the oil.
I'm not 100% sure but I vaguely remember retorquing the bolts without having remove the rocker gear (mind you I had steel posts ifthat makes a
difference).
If you really feel you need to clean the bolt threads, then to avoid any head gasket issues, the way I would do it is to undo the bolts in sequence in
stages, and leave them in the head at a very low torque, < 5 lb ft and clean the bolts one at a time so that the head/gasket do not move relative
to the engine block. Then retighten in stages.
If you do move/remove the head, I would recommend a new head gasket even if the engine has not been run, but I guess you can always try it, worst case
you need to repeat the steps.... which by now you have plenty of practice!
If the rocker gear is removed, check valve clearances cold and again once you have had the engine up to running temperature.
 is correct, the rocker shaft runs over the head bolts
so rocker gear comes off.
[Edited on 9/1/21 by 02GF74]
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steve m
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 10:46 PM |
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"I'm not 100% sure but I vaguely remember retorquing the bolts without having remove the rocker gear (mind you I had steel posts ifthat
makes a difference)."
This may be possible with a special crows style of tool for the head bolts but from memory, 5 of the bolts are hidden/below the ohv setup, and not
accessible with a normal socket etc
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Deckman001
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| posted on 9/1/21 at 10:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
If the rocker gear is removed, check valve clearances cold and again once you have had the engine up to running temperature.
Yeah that's what I did, and when hot, I had to slack off 6 of the adjustments and 2 were too loose.
Jason
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/1/21 at 07:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by steve m
"I'm not 100% sure but I vaguely remember retorquing the bolts without having remove the rocker gear (mind you I had steel posts ifthat
makes a difference)."
This may be possible with a special crows style of tool for the head bolts but from memory, 5 of the bolts are hidden/below the ohv setup, and not
accessible with a normal socket etc
steve
It’s definitely possible all you need is a shallow socket and a thin extension,
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Deckman001
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| posted on 10/1/21 at 04:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by joneh
That's basically the plan, although I've got to time the ignition once its rebuilt.
If it helps, my first couple of turns of the engine didn't show up any oil pressure, but the third attempt when it started and ran for about ten
seconds it showed the roughly 60lb as expected when blipped. another attempt you could do it take the plugs out and turn it over again like that, ie
no firing of the plugs and it'll spin over much easier and should show pressure like normal.
Jason
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joneh
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| posted on 10/1/21 at 08:53 PM |
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All back together and cranked it over, no leaks and oil flows. Will chuck some fuel in it and see what happens some point this week.
Whilst I was fiddling, I noticed that the valve stem seals have climbed up the valves. They're Burtons seals as the originals split. I gather
this is a common issue and I assume some oil will work it's way down. I read somewhere that people glue these down sometimes. Any thoughts if I
should just try this or not worry about it?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/1/21 at 09:32 PM |
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It was a common occurrence on Xflow valve stem seals , think they worked more like an umbrella than an oil seal . It may?? be possible to use CVH
valve stem seals that are held in place by the valve spring? But that would mean taking off the valve springs to try
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joneh
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| posted on 10/1/21 at 09:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
It was a common occurrence on Xflow valve stem seals , think they worked more like an umbrella than an oil seal . It may?? be possible to use CVH
valve stem seals that are held in place by the valve spring? But that would mean taking off the valve springs to try
I never want to take this head off again!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 11/1/21 at 08:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by joneh
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
It was a common occurrence on Xflow valve stem seals , think they worked more like an umbrella than an oil seal . It may?? be possible to use CVH
valve stem seals that are held in place by the valve spring? But that would mean taking off the valve springs to try
I never want to take this head off again!
I somehow thought that might be the case
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joneh
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 06:42 PM |
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It's alive! Thanks all for your help. Runs like a dog and stinks but it's running. I'll adjust the timing with a timing light and
eventually get it to a rolling road.
Now to finish the build...
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 07:50 PM |
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Well done , great news 😊
Jason
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 09:12 PM |
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Good oil pressure?
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joneh
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 09:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Good oil pressure?
Seems to be. The pressure sensor thinks so.
Just took the sump plug off, drained a little oil off to check for coolant leaks, and there was a drop of water at the bottom. Just one tiny drip.
I'm hoping it was from the previous leak and just worked it's way back to the sump. I'll leave it still for a few days and see if
any more collects. If it does, after I've finished crying I'll probably bodge it with k-seal and hope it lasts until IVA.
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