Wheels244
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 07:19 PM |
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I couldn't find a pump Ben.
Do you want me to take pics of my set up and email them to you ?
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teegray19
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 07:48 PM |
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Totally different engine however, my crossflow ran very hot with the standard 93-102degs thermo in for ages, dropped it down to 80ish opening never
goes above 90degs now. Worth playing around with a range of thermostats.
Also might want to look at the diameter of the driven belt wheel on the pump, different sizes increase or decrease speed of pump rotation like gear
systems. It might not be a standard size, people fit smaller driven wheels to reduce the amount of drive on the pump extending life! crazy I know...
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 08:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
I couldn't find a pump Ben.
Do you want me to take pics of my set up and email them to you ?
Yes please mate.
ben_copeland at hotmail dot com
Ben
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dave_424
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 09:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by teegray19
Totally different engine however, my crossflow ran very hot with the standard 93-102degs thermo in for ages, dropped it down to 80ish opening never
goes above 90degs now. Worth playing around with a range of thermostats.
Also might want to look at the diameter of the driven belt wheel on the pump, different sizes increase or decrease speed of pump rotation like gear
systems. It might not be a standard size, people fit smaller driven wheels to reduce the amount of drive on the pump extending life! crazy I know...
Wouldn't smaller driven pulley increase RPM of the pump?
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Wheels244
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 09:09 PM |
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email sent with pics
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/5/13 at 10:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by teegray19
Totally different engine however, my crossflow ran very hot with the standard 93-102degs thermo in for ages, dropped it down to 80ish opening never
goes above 90degs now. Worth playing around with a range of thermostats.
Also might want to look at the diameter of the driven belt wheel on the pump, different sizes increase or decrease speed of pump rotation like gear
systems. It might not be a standard size, people fit smaller driven wheels to reduce the amount of drive on the pump extending life! crazy I know...
The reason racers with high RPM engines fit smaller crank pulleys to slow the water pump down is if you spin a centrifugal pump at too high RPM you
get cavitation, as a result the pump flow rate is greatly reduced and the power required to turn the pump greatly increases.
Why did you fit an 93c thermostat in an xflo ? the factory spec was 83 or 88c start to open.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 09:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Why did you fit an 93c thermostat in an xflo ? the factory spec was 83 or 88c start to open.
The original Ford spec for a X-Flow stat was 74 degrees. Had one in all my X-Flows from 1980 to 2002. When I sold all my old bits buyers on E-Bay
flocked for the 74 degree stat, was told they were unavailable new.
Engine always ran at 78 degrees on an accurate gauge and I never had any issues. Fan switched on at 88 degrees and off at 84 degrees but eventually I
did fit a manual override switch.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 10:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by teegray19
Totally different engine however, my crossflow ran very hot with the standard 93-102degs thermo in for ages, dropped it down to 80ish opening never
goes above 90degs now. Worth playing around with a range of thermostats.
Also might want to look at the diameter of the driven belt wheel on the pump, different sizes increase or decrease speed of pump rotation like gear
systems. It might not be a standard size, people fit smaller driven wheels to reduce the amount of drive on the pump extending life! crazy I know...
The pumps an aftermarket standard arrangement. Nothing wrong with the pulley size. Which I'm now thinking I'm going to have to replace the
pump and stick a jetwash in the water jacket within the cylinder head
Ben
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 10:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Why did you fit an 93c thermostat in an xflo ? the factory spec was 83 or 88c start to open.
The original Ford spec for a X-Flow stat was 74 degrees. Had one in all my X-Flows from 1980 to 2002. When I sold all my old bits buyers on E-Bay
flocked for the 74 degree stat, was told they were unavailable new.
Engine always ran at 78 degrees on an accurate gauge and I never had any issues. Fan switched on at 88 degrees and off at 84 degrees but eventually I
did fit a manual override switch.
Sorry but you should check your facts a 74c stat being standard fitting is nonsense any manufacture fitting a 74c stat in the UK market
would soon get complaints of selling cars with ineffective heaters.
In most thermostat catalogues of the 1960s a to 1980s 84c was the standard stat and 88c was listed the "hot heater" option. By
the late 1970s emissions and Fuel economy were more important and 88c stats were standard fitting.
Normal parts outlets never carried the 74c stat is was always a special order item, BMC/BL always sold it from their Special Tuning parts
brochure.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 11:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Sorry but you should check your facts a 74c stat being standard fitting is nonsense
Don't need to check the facts. I know what was fitted to my engines. They were either OEM FoMoCo and Motorcraft or QH parts.
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teegray19
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 05:29 PM |
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Thermo in mine may have been aftermarket, I dropped in a lower opening temp and enjoy sitting in traffic and not watching it shoot off the temp
scale.
I was only throwing up suggestions not trying to cause arguments! Fill it with the waterless coolant and stop worrying about it boiling until 140degs
or something.
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jeffw
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| posted on 8/5/13 at 06:05 PM |
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Ben
Are you sure the temp gauge is correct? If you are seeing 95 deg at the thermostat housing and 60 deg on the rad but the temp gauge is at 115deg
maybe the sender/gauge is faulty or miss matched. What does the ECU think the water temp is?
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 03:28 PM |
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Hi Jeff,
The gauge is correct. It was showing just under 100 at that point.
I raised the coolant bottle before my MOT, not sure if its made any difference. When cruising the temperature is stable and drops a little, but heats
up when under heavy throttle or sitting still.
I dont know what to do next now. I'm going to have to pull all the pipes off next weekend and try flushing the head out. Then its replace pump
time. Cant think what else it can be.
Ben
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 03:49 PM |
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It would be good to know what the temperature of the coolant coming out the lower outlet of the radiator is when you are putting the engine under
load.
If the temperature at this point is low then it points to a coolant circulation problem, if it is high then it points to the radiator being to
small or not getting enough airflow to dispose of the heat the engine is producing.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 03:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Sorry but you should check your facts a 74c stat being standard fitting is nonsense
Don't need to check the facts. I know what was fitted to my engines. They were either OEM FoMoCo and Motorcraft or QH parts.
Boswollox
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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teegray19
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 03:54 PM |
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I was speaking to a lad that has an MNR who has similar problems. He found sticking some Vents in the bonnet done the trick to circulate the air
correctly.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 03:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by teegray19
I was speaking to a lad that has an MNR who has similar problems. He found sticking some Vents in the bonnet done the trick to circulate the air
correctly.
Overheats with bonnet and nosecone off...
Ben
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teegray19
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:00 PM |
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Maybes try a vauhxall forum and see what they have to say? Am sure the circulation in a 7 is better than a corsa or Astra?
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
It would be good to know what the temperature of the coolant coming out the lower outlet of the radiator is when you are putting the engine under
load.
If the temperature at this point is low then it points to a coolant circulation problem, if it is high then it points to the radiator being to
small or not getting enough airflow to dispose of the heat the engine is producing.
I'm thinking it must circulation problem because theres no water coming out of the bleed at the top of the polo radiator, which is lower than
the bottle
Ben
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teegray19
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:19 PM |
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May have a huge air lock, try holding the catch tank as high as the piping alows when the engine is running and see if it slurps the water trough.
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perksy
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:31 PM |
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Strange that drilling the extra holes in the stat didn't help it as this has helped folk in the past mate.
(SBD sell a lower operating stat which is worth a thought)
Is the coolant tank the highest part of the layout ?
Have you got the small take off from the head plumbed in or is it blanked off ?
Sorry if these questions have been asked already...
My layout if it helps....
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Strange that drilling the extra holes in the stat didn't help it as this has helped folk in the past mate.
(SBD sell a lower operating stat which is worth a thought)
Is the coolant tank the highest part of the layout ?
Have you got the small take off from the head plumbed in or is it blanked off ?
Sorry if these questions have been asked already...
My layout if it helps....
Coolant tank is as high as possible. Small take off is plumbed straight back to the coolant bottle.
What tank have you got?
Its bit difficult to tell the plumbing with your pictures as theres so many pipes !
Ben
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perksy
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:50 PM |
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Standard Westfield Coolant tank mate which if i remember right is from a Ford Fiesta.
When you changed the coolant, what state was it in ?
Have you used Speedflush to flush the coolant system out ? (although i believe the Rad is a new one ?)
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 05:10 PM |
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I'll have a look at speedflush and see what it can do 
Coolants never got old 
I'll check fiest bottle too thanks
Ben
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 1/6/13 at 04:36 PM |
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Bit if an update. All flushed but no dirt come out.
Changed water pump to a good manufacturer, also I wrapped the thermostat and temperature sensors in heat wrap to make sure there was no heat soak from
the manifold which is close.
No air inside definately.
I've wired the fan to stay on which helps keep the temperatures down but far from ideal
Run out of ideas now, going to ring sbd on Monday see if they can help.
[Edited on 1/6/13 by Ben_Copeland]
Ben
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