focijohn
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:35 PM |
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zetec engine number help + bolt help
After reading another thread ive had a scratch and sand around and cant seem to find the engine number (gearbox flange) Cant find it anywhere on there
as its too far gone... and i'd like to think that my eye sights good. Any ideas please?
Secondly, even after boxing everything anally ive still managed to misplace the oil strainer bolts that screw into the Oil Pump, the only bits i have
lost... will any bolts do if not does anyone have any pictures of what they look like so i can have a good nose about in my shed? At least ill know
what im looking for.
Regards
John
[Edited on 25/1/09 by focijohn]
Anyone going slower than you is an idiot. Anyone going faster than you is a maniac.
Too many targets but too few bullets.
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Bigheppy
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:42 PM |
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I have a similar problem. I have the number obtained from the donors v5 but it has rusted off the flange, so I cant verify it. Can I just stamp it
back on, what type and size of stamp should I use. Sorry if I'm slightly hijacking the thread but it is sort of relevant. 
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les g
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:42 PM |
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iirc
they are someting like m6 torx cap screws
i should think allen bolts would be ok though
cheers les g
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focijohn
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:48 PM |
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Should add that its a silver top if that makes a difference.
Anyone going slower than you is an idiot. Anyone going faster than you is a maniac.
Too many targets but too few bullets.
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will121
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:57 PM |
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i had a simular problem with engine number as could only read half of it, i lightly draw filed it wire brushed it and then took a digital photo and on
some photo software inverted the colours and to my suprise could just make them out, if you cant see any could have been a new ford block at some time
as they come with no numbers stamped. i wuld say be carefull restamping numbers as is dont look right will apear dodgy!
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coozer
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:59 PM |
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Re: Engien number... I had exactly the same problem, the flange was the only place with rust on it and I couldn't make the number out at all.
I used electrolysis to clean the flange up. Not easy but with the engine on its side over the bath I put bits and bobs in the water till it just
covered the edge of the flange and let it cook.
Next morning the poorly stamped number was plain to see, and still is nearly two years later!
Just for your info, if the engine was changed at the dealer any time in its live the new one from Ford doesn't have a number, the dealer has to
stamp the number of the old one on the new one.
 
Rescued attachment Engine Number Electolysis.jpg
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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mad4x4
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| posted on 26/1/09 at 07:23 AM |
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MY VosA/SVA inspector (Aberdeen) did say to me "If I we you i'd would have re-stamped that when the engine was out"
This was because, the number was absolute murder to see when the VOSA can to inspect.
Also take a photo of the number while it is out so that they can see it more clearly.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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02GF74
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| posted on 26/1/09 at 09:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bigheppy
size of stamp should I use.
SVA manual states minium size is 4 mm.
Machine MArt sell a set of numbers and letters, bit no 0 for a tenner; the numbers when stamped are a smdge under 4 mm but I doubt the inspector will
get a micrometer to measure. My passed ok.
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focijohn
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| posted on 26/1/09 at 06:44 PM |
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so theretically speaking i could go to a scrap yard..... find a pre (or post) 95 zetec thats about to be crushed and nick the engine number off
that?
Send the engine number off to ford tech dept and have a letter through confirming the age of the engine!?
Not that i would encourage such behavior
Anyone going slower than you is an idiot. Anyone going faster than you is a maniac.
Too many targets but too few bullets.
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