cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 12:30 PM |
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vauxhall XE to type 9 - a couple of questions
Now that the fuel system is in place I'm looking to fit my engine and box into the chassis. To connect the two I plan on dealing with yukspeed
who supply all the necessary parts:
http://www.yukspeed.com/parts.htm
I am looking at the 7 degree bellhousing on ebay at the minute (£99), then a "bolt fitting kit" £15 (Im dubious of this, surely I can just
buy some bolts to fit from screwfix?), the clutch fork and spigot bush £45 and then a standard clutch and "competition cover"(?) is £200,
ideally id like the upgraded clutch which adds another £50 to £250.
Apart from the bellhousing, which is a specficially manufactured item and this is the cheapest i can find it, can anyone think of ways to cut the
other costs. Surely I can get a clutch and cover (which I guess means pressure plate?) for less than 200?
For those who have done the conversion, does it use a vauxhall or ford clutch + pressure plate? I'm not changing my sump, but will i need to
change the pickup pipe?
Thankyou for reading.
Craig
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dinosaurjuice
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 12:46 PM |
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its fairly likely that the 'bolt fitting kit' exists because the bolts are not standard - probably a finer thread pitch.
cant help with anything else.
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MikeR
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 12:56 PM |
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would you rather spend 15 quid and get the bolts or waste a weekend discovering the bolts you've got don't fit then hunting out some that
do?
its expensive for some bolts but for ease probably a wise choice.
As for clutches etc - I know NS Dev / NED both have done this and can probably advise, although i think both went hydraulic instead of cable.
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 12:59 PM |
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Cheers guys, i suspected there must a reason behind the bolt kit, otherwise everyone would avoid it and just pop down to their local B+Q!
I would have no idea where to start with hydraulic clutches  so hopefully they know a little about the standard cable version.
Theyll probably be able to explain why its rubbish and they both changed 
Craig
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sevaun
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 01:06 PM |
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X to type 9
Hi
I'm in the middle of doing the same conversion.
You'll need a standard vauxhall XE cover (pressure plate) and a Sierra 2.3 diesel driven plate.
I bought a brand new XE pressure plate off e bay for £30 and I guess I'll probably pay around £15-£25 for the driven plate all in for £45.
Yuk Hodson offers clutch kits mainly for Escort/Rally use and hence these are way over spec for lightweight locost use.
Everything else he does is spot on for our use. I bought my bellhousing from him s/hand for £130 and it's perfect and he's a great guy too
with a real Yorkshireman's sense of humour.
For very useful info an all XE installation work try here : http://westfield-world.com/xeinstall.html
Hope this helps
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 01:23 PM |
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now that is an excellent website
ta very much for the link, that takes a weight off my mind and my wallet with the clutch!
Craig
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 03:03 PM |
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You very probably want the 0 degree bell housing for a Locost rather than the 7 degree one.
Don't forget you will need to make/buy a shallower sump.
[Edited on 11/2/09 by MikeRJ]
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 03:05 PM |
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why is that mike? im only going for 7 degree because its £60ish less and i figured the extra space on the intake side couldnt hurt?
oh and im fitting into a dax rush and apparently there are no clearance issues with the standard sump on the standard Dax mounts.
edited to say:- just spoke to yukspeed and he also recommended the upright bellhousing in a kit as it causes all sorts of problems with oil/water
circulation etc etc if at an angle.
[Edited on 11/2/09 by cd.thomson]
[Edited on 11/2/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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mcerd1
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 05:03 PM |
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also do the standard dax mounts suit the 7 degree ?
[Edited on 11/2/09 by mcerd1]
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stevepj
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 05:15 PM |
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0 degree bellhousing, fine thread allen bolts to mate bellhousing to the gearbox, vauxhall clutch cover/pressure plate with a westfield friction plate
- got a sierra diesel one from the bay but it had some kind of flange that interfered, so check before you buy, ford release bearing and clutch arm
and a crankshaft spigot bearing.
You can either use M12 allen bolts to join engine to bellhousing or plain bolts with good thick washers to spread the load round the sunk holes.
Then there is the cam cover mod that SBD recommend.
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skippad
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 06:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevepj
0 degree bellhousing, fine thread allen bolts to mate bellhousing to the gearbox, vauxhall clutch cover/pressure plate with a westfield friction plate
- got a sierra diesel one from the bay but it had some kind of flange that interfered, so check before you buy, ford release bearing and clutch arm
and a crankshaft spigot bearing.
You can either use M12 allen bolts to join engine to bellhousing or plain bolts with good thick washers to spread the load round the sunk holes.
Then there is the cam cover mod that SBD recommend.
Everything steve said....0 deg. housing keeps engine upright, easier to install in a 7, plus modified sump (yukspeed, SBD) will be parallel with
floor, short clutch cable (capri) yukspeed do upgraded AP clutch plates.
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/2/09 at 06:20 PM |
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cheers guys, all sorted now.
the plan:
diesel sierra friction plate
original pressure plate (these to be upgraded as necessary)
yukspeed upright bellhousing, spigot bush, clutch fork and bolt kit.
£250ish
I have confirmed with Simon at Dax that I will not need to modify the sump. There first demo car with the XE had a sump guard but now they produce
them without as it was deemed unnecessary. 
Craig
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 12:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
c
I have confirmed with Simon at Dax that I will not need to modify the sump. There first demo car with the XE had a sump guard but now they produce
them without as it was deemed unnecessary.
I find this very surprising, the XE is a pretty tall engine.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 09:30 AM |
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phew, just following this thread and hoped you hadn't gone for the 7 degree one!!!
It would never fit with that bellhousing!
You will need to mod the sump, whatever anybody may say.
It may well FIT but it WILL hit things, smash and also will generate oil surge under braking
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 09:35 AM |
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Despite what the manufacturer and designer of Dax Rush sportscars says who produces outthefactory Rushes with the C20XE engine fitted with no sump
modifications?
I'm not being intentionally head strong, but Peter and Simon do produce the thing, I'd be suprised if they had got something so wrong that
they would give their customers false information.
[Edited on 12/2/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 10:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
It may well FIT but it WILL hit things, smash and also will generate oil surge under braking
I agree, it seems incredible that the engine can be fitted high enough to give enough clearance for the standard deep sump. No other '7'
manufacturer has been able to achieve this AFAIK, does the Dax have an exceptionally high bonnet line?
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 10:13 AM |
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you have to buy a special bonnet for the engine from Dax, the standard one is too low.
Craig
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/2/09 at 10:13 AM |
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fairly high, similar to MK, but that's still only an inch higher than "traditional" 7 bodywork.
It will go in, but you would have negligible ground clearance (prob 1.5" at 6" "chassis to ground" ride height)
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 13/2/09 at 06:36 AM |
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I use an XE with a Luego Velocity which is much taller than the standard 7 (well a couple of inches) and definitely needed to shorten the sump. The
top of the engine is just below (like half an inch or less) the bonnet and the sump hits the occasional speed hump. As I live in London the speed
humps are a real issue, if you live somewhere that isn't blighted by them then maybe you could get away with it. In reality though it would be
a fools move to build your car with the engine as high as possible to avoid changing the sump only to drive it and realise that it needs doing anyway.
Also, why add additional weight in the form or a sump guard that isn’t needed if the job is done properly?
I used standard clutch parts and they work very well under extremely aggressive use so I wouldn't bother with the upgraded option.
Great engine and box choice, my car is fabulous to drive and I am sure you’ll love it.
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chrsgrain
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| posted on 13/2/09 at 05:36 PM |
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HAving had one of these, it depends where you're going to drive it - if you are going to drive on flat 'normal' roads, then you will
be fine..... if however you're going to negotiate speed humps, or slight drops into and out of car parks etc - then you'll need it
shortening.
What I would do is get it running with the normal sump - and then if its a problem retrofit a shortened one - half hour job.
As for the Dax one - I saw their demonstrator, and the bottom of the sump was pretty scratched. Having said that the bell housing comes below the
sump - so how much benefit would you get from a short sump??
Chris
Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/2/09 at 06:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrsgrain
As for the Dax one - I saw their demonstrator, and the bottom of the sump was pretty scratched. Having said that the bell housing comes below the
sump - so how much benefit would you get from a short sump??
Chris
I have a Caterham sump on my engine and I'm pretty sure it was roughly level with the bottom of the bell housing. I'll have to check it.
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