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Author: Subject: Clutch trouble
Chris Leonard

posted on 15/2/04 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
Clutch trouble

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just put the rebuilt 1300 Xflow back in. Works fine - no knocking like before. Thought Id run it up the drive and.......... the clutch isnt working.

It was working before on the old engine that knocked and its a new clutch. The only difference is that the new engine had a different flywheel which was lightened.

No matter how much you adjust the clutch, when you press it in it doesn't disingauge fully. Before I take the engine out again (4th Time) any suggestions?

Cheers Chris

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Stu16v

posted on 15/2/04 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
Clutch plate in back to front?





Dont just build it.....make it!

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Chris Leonard

posted on 15/2/04 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
dont think so. It said about that in the manual and im sure I put it the right way round: longer bit of the spline towards the flywheel.

The friction plate on the flywheel was a bit rusty. Anyone recon this might be the problem; if so I could spin it with the clutch in and the breaks on and see if this free's it - or am I being stupid

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Mark Allanson

posted on 15/2/04 at 11:03 PM Reply With Quote
Before pulling anything apart, try giving it some serious abuse - it usually works, gets rid of rust, furred up plates etc





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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Stu16v

posted on 15/2/04 at 11:22 PM Reply With Quote
As Mark says. A clutch can 'rust up' surprisingly quickly. First, get the engine really warm. Then, switch the engine off, and put it into gear. With the clutch fully depressed, and the handbrake on, try starting it again. Hopefully this will free the clutch.

If this doesnt work, do you have an area you can drive it (if it isnt registered)? Start the engine with it in gear and accelerate sharply on and off a few times, again with the clutch fully depressed.

Fingers crossed....





Dont just build it.....make it!

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theconrodkid

posted on 16/2/04 at 08:07 AM Reply With Quote
"longer bit of the spline to the flywheel",thats the wrong way round





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Chris Leonard

posted on 16/2/04 at 09:46 AM Reply With Quote
Oh Dear,

thanks conrod - I havent got the manual with me but I thought I'd read it right!

Well if thats the case then guess whose taking an engine out tonight

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theconrodkid

posted on 16/2/04 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
the flat side of the certre plate goes to the flywheel,i allways double check,i know peeps that have done it wrong





who cares who wins
pass the pork pies

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Chris Leonard

posted on 16/2/04 at 11:12 AM Reply With Quote
I'll have a look tonight when I get the engine out.

Just to make sure what were talking about. The centre plate has a splined shaft through it. This sticks out further one side than the other - one side is about 15mm the other side 20 mm. I put the shorter end to the flywheel .

Is this what you mean or should I be looking for something else

Cheers Chris

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theconrodkid

posted on 16/2/04 at 11:22 AM Reply With Quote
the flywheel side should be marked"flywheel side"and is flat or in line with the friction surface,thther side with cush drive springs pokes out and is proud of the friction surface by about 13mm,we are talking about the whole center hub not just the small bit the 1st motion shaft goes into.hth





who cares who wins
pass the pork pies

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Chris Leonard

posted on 17/2/04 at 01:02 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks to all who replied. Conrod was right - I'd put the clutch plate in round the wrong way!

OK I admit to being stupid - it was marked on the plate ' flywheel this side'!. In my defence the Haynes maunal stated that the longer side of the spline went to the flywheel, I stuck to this and didnt see the marking on the plate.

Still Im getting good at engine removals: engine out, clutch plate turned round, engine back in and plumbed, creep up to bed so as not to wake the wife at 12.30

Thanks all

Chris

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