Benzine
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 09:57 PM |
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Cylinder head bolt siezed
Undid 7 bolts fine and obviously the last one decides it wants to stay there. I've been applying penetrating fluid since it happened a couple of
days ago. I've tried welding a nut onto it but it never holds. I've tried heating the nut & bolt first, the weld looks great but then
it fails 
I have 30mm to play with, what are my options? If I go down the welding path again, how is best to do it? So far I've put the nut on about half
way and welded up the "bowl" that's left. I haven't welded underneath the bolt yet aswell as the top, try that? Take it to a
machine shop and let them do it?
FANX
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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omega0684
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:01 PM |
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errrr where is the head of the bolt?
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austin man
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:02 PM |
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have you tried using a pair of stilsons. apply wd 40 and heat use the loosen tighten method to help it on its way keep heating and spraying the oil as
you go. If you keep welding to it you will end up softening the bolt
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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austin man
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:07 PM |
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forgot to mention, if it snaps on the block face take it to an engineer who will either be able to extract or redrill an tap the block. Had a similar
problem with the engine on my little Austin (avtar) local engineer removed the remains and retapped all for a tenner I spent 5 hours on the frikkin
thing, knackered loads of drill bits and killed my strud extractor set
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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Benzine
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
errrr where is the head of the bolt?
It died a thousand deaths. I placed a coin in it's mouth so that Charon would row it across the river Stix to the afterlife
(it snapped off)
quote:
Originally posted by austin man
have you tried using a pair of stilsons. apply wd 40 and heat use the loosen tighten method to help it on its way keep heating and spraying the oil as
you go. If you keep welding to it you will end up softening the bolt
yeah tried stilsons, needs moar power
quote:
Originally posted by austin man
forgot to mention, if it snaps on the block face take it to an engineer who will either be able to extract or redrill an tap the block. Had a similar
problem with the engine on my little Austin (avtar) local engineer removed the remains and retapped all for a tenner I spent 5 hours on the frikkin
thing, knackered loads of drill bits and killed my strud extractor set
Yeah it's probably going to save me lots of swearing to get a pr0 to do it
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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tendoshingan
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:11 PM |
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I had exactly the same problem.
Actually mine was slightly worse because my bolt sheared off next to the head.
Caused by lots of rust due to blown head gasket.
Anyway, I used lots and lots of wd40 and scraped off the rust around the bolt.
Ended up welding onto the bolt to create a T-bar to undo it.
Eventually after a few hours managed to get it out then re-tapped the hole.
Good luck with it
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RichardK
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:13 PM |
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Have you tried 2 nuts tightened against each other then having a go on the bottom one to try and unscrew?
May be worth a shot.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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balidey
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:14 PM |
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rather than weld a nut on, have you tried locking two nuts together?
And have you tried tightening a 1/4 turn first?
Failing that, let your other half have a go, that way it WILL budge and then you can say you loosened it for her.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:18 PM |
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Firstly beat the crap out of it with a hammer. No really, do it. Some smart blows directly on top of the remaining stud will help break the bond
between the threads.
When you weld a nut on, it's a waste of time trying to fill the inside of a nut as you have found (tried that many times when I've had
only a small amount of stud remaining, hardly ever works). Get a nut that fits over the stud and push it all the way through with some protruding
before welding it with lots of current.
When you have a nut securely attached, work the stud both ways, tightening and loosening and apply regular applications of the hammer on the top and
plenty of penetrating fluid.
[Edited on 6/5/09 by MikeRJ]
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Benzine
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 10:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
Quitter!!Can we please exclude him from the Sacred Order of the LocostBuilders please? Fozzie?? 
Yeah you're right ^__^ I'll keep trying
Yeah I've tried putting other nuts on and then spannering the bottom nut (I can get 3 nuts on there with thread to spare) and it still
didn't shift and I've been hitting it too ^__^
I think i'll try the welding again tomorrow and crank the power up more
[Edited on 6/5/09 by Benzine]
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 11:48 PM |
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yeah , get a nut that goes all the way over the threads , make a huge fillet weld with lots of heat .
i would think if you get it cherry red (the stud) and it still doesnt want to move after chilling it , you need to seek a professional who can drill
it out accurately(im sure you could do it yourself) otherwise block may be scrap
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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UncleFista
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 12:04 AM |
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I've had most success with the welding method when I've whacked the power right up and welded it until it's almost white hot 
It's the heat more than owt that does it.
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 06:52 AM |
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Id second the blow with a hammer. Its normally enough to get a bit of movement in it, then weld the nut all round and have another go
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02GF74
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 06:54 AM |
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is it aluminium block?
if you can warm up the block then apply a damp cloth to the stud and try to undo, you would need to make a big BBQ pit to get any heat into the block
though - it will laugh in the face of puny gas torch.
can you weld two nuts on, aligned so you can get a deep socket on?
then with big bar under tension, give it one big push - either it/nut(s) will snap off or it will move.
in the meantime get a scriber and clean the gap between block and the "stud" and apply penetrating fluid - the proper stuff, not wd40.
my money is on it shearing off.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 07:05 AM |
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Heat it as hot as possible then let it cool soak in Plus Gas penetrating fluid.(best freeing agent)
Then use a proper stud extractor
http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=1126
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-63-4603-26066-draper-stud-extractor-1-2%22-drive-(6-19mm).asp
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-63-4603-41028-draper-12mm-stud-extractor.asp
 
Rescued attachment 400.jpg
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Benzine
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 09:13 AM |
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None of the local factors have plus gas. I've been using 3-in-1 penetrating spray (not just general lube/WD-40) although I don't know how
well that compares to something like plus gas (which seems to have rave reviews)
Edit: last factors I tried has it in ^__^
[Edited on 7/5/09 by Benzine]
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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eznfrank
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 10:50 AM |
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Is it threaded all the way down? Most are blank for the bit that goes into the head and are only threaded when it gets to the block? If that's
the case you should be able to cut the head of the bolt and just slide the head off giving you much more room to play with??
I'm sure that's what I ended up doing with my old Alfa??
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AndyGT
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 11:34 AM |
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Have you tried:
grinding two flats onto the stud and using a spanner, or someting else to undo it?
Locking two nuts together and then welding the top nut?
Heating the block and shocking the stud cold?
Is it possible to buy a freezing agent as used in it to cool micro-chips in an aerosol and then undoing the stud?
Just a few ideas.... Plus as ^^^^ with slackening and tightening technique.
Good luck
Andy
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Benzine
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 12:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by eznfrank
Is it threaded all the way down? Most are blank for the bit that goes into the head and are only threaded when it gets to the block? If that's
the case you should be able to cut the head of the bolt and just slide the head off giving you much more room to play with??
I'm sure that's what I ended up doing with my old Alfa??
Not seen the pic in the first post? 
Well I just tried welding two nuts on. I got them both red hot and cranked up the welder. The welds didn't fail this time but the bolt did shear
again. So now I've got about 15mm to play with
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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eznfrank
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 12:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
quote:
Originally posted by eznfrank
Is it threaded all the way down? Most are blank for the bit that goes into the head and are only threaded when it gets to the block? If that's
the case you should be able to cut the head of the bolt and just slide the head off giving you much more room to play with??
I'm sure that's what I ended up doing with my old Alfa??
Not seen the pic in the first post?
Ah......I'm at work, I didn't realise there was a pic, my work PC is poo and never loads them.
Edit - Hahahaha I just looked at the photo via my phone - I bet I sounded like a right jackass trying to be all clever.
[Edited on 7/5/09 by eznfrank]
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Benzine
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| posted on 7/5/09 at 12:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
Bugger. Well in the absence of a proper stud extractor and PlusGas, i'd have to say now might be the time to give the 15mm remaining to a better
equipped engineering shop. You could try the same trick again with the remaining 15mm and it could well work..... but if not its likely to sheer flush
with the block rather than directly below the nut where its likelybeen heat-weakened
I got some PlusGas and left it soaking in for a couple of hours first. How do I go about finding a local machine shop? There are so many little
businesses in my area that I have no idea about, I've often stumbled across shot blasting places, powder coating places etc that aren't
listed anywhere, purely known by word of mouth? It's mad.
The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make
it moral.
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bitsilly
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| posted on 8/5/09 at 05:51 PM |
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Sharpen the stilsons and/or get a line of weld down the side to help them grip.
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