jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 07:29 AM |
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roughly how much is it to rebuild a pinto
i know its hard to ansewer this with out knowing the spec,but how much is it to get an pinto rebuilt?????
400
500
1000
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x_flow57
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 07:51 AM |
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It's a how long is a peice of string question?
My crossflow was £500 in parts and machining only and I would expect a Pinto to be similar.
It is usually more cost effective to buy a recon or better still a known 2nd hand unit.
Nick
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 07:57 AM |
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i know its hard to answer,
did you hear what happened to my pinto???
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philhoward
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:03 AM |
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I just paid £420 for crank regrind, rebore, new shells and pistons. Then another £250.00 for all ancillary bits like oil pump, water pump, gaskets
etc
A CNC machined gas flow head cost £650.00.
All in all a lot of money, but now have an engine that is very fast
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x_flow57
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:35 AM |
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I have read what happened .
I would hope, as someone else has said, that there may not be too much damage as you did not actually drive it and load everything heavily.
I would use it and see if every thing seems ok. Looking for smoke when accelerating and listening for strange noises from crank and cam.
Pinto's a tough old lump  good job you've not got a flimsy bike engine in there.
Nick
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02GF74
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jpindy3
i know its hard to answer,
did you hear what happened to my pinto???
you ran it without driving the oil pump?
take the cam cover off, wipe t he oil off the lobes and look at the lobe condition - that;ll be an idnoicator of the damage.
if ypu hjave good oil pressure and no band knocking from the lower end, you'll probably have gotten away with it.
these are 70s engine tewchnology not made to the same high tolerances as todays so can take much more abuse.
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bob
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:36 AM |
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You have to give this a great deal of thought, you spend a lot of money on pintos rebuilding them and they can give you good numbers in power.
But
With new in a crate black top zetec engines selling for £700 it becomes more tempting to make a complete engine change,also these engines bolt
straight onto your excisting type 9 gearbox once a rear wheel drive spiggot bearing (£8)has been fitted to the crankshaft.
I know the zetec would mean new exhaust header possible sump mods but it still wont be far off rebuilding the old 8 valve pinto.
zetec linky
[Edited on 21/6/09 by bob]
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bob
You have to give this a great deal of thought, you spend a lot of money on pintos rebuilding them and they can give you good numbers in power.
But
With new in a crate black top zetec engines selling for £700 it becomes more tempting to make a complete engine change,also these engines bolt
straight onto your excisting type 9 gearbox once a rear wheel drive spiggot bearing (£8)has been fitted to the crankshaft.
I know the zetec would mean new exhaust header possible sump mods but it still wont be far off rebuilding the old 8 valve pinto.
zetec linky
[Edited on 21/6/09 by bob]
thanks this is the thing its a vulcan pinto not far off 2ks worth, power wise about 150-160bhp that what valcan quote
[Edited on 21/6/09 by jpindy3]
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:46 AM |
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i bought a "new" 2,1 pinto from vulcan engineering for £3600  Ouch!!! (I did not know about this site before i started so choices were
made with out informed knowledge)
BUT VERY FAST low 4sec to 60, and on private roads 0 to 90 in under 7 secs
How fast do you want to go?
Ditch
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mark chandler
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 08:49 AM |
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I paid £600 20 years ago for a 2.1 block and ported heads, so budget on £1k if you do it properly.
Dump the pinto, go Zetec, more power, more economy and more revs.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 21/6/09 by mark chandler]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 09:06 AM |
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You might have gotten away with what happened. On the other hand you might not.
The worst that will have happened is that you will have scuffed the bearings and cam, you shouldnt need any regrinding.
All in all you would be looking at about £150-200 for the bearings (you need special tools to change the cam bearings) and £150 for a new cam and
followers.
Moral of the story, research what you are planning to do before you do it!
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 09:59 AM |
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the cam looks ok,
 
Description
 
Description
but i guess you carnt tell if its shot by looking at it
[Edited on 21/6/09 by jpindy3]
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prawnabie
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 10:00 AM |
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that cam looks worn lol. Anything with ANY marks on I would deem to be scrap tbh.
Esp on pintos, it seems the norm to replace the cam at very low intervals.
Shaun
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 10:02 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I paid £600 20 years ago for a 2.1 block and ported heads, so budget on £1k if you do it properly.
Dump the pinto, go Zetec, more power, more economy and more revs.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 21/6/09 by mark chandler]
i hear what your saying,i might get a zetec of druatec,but i want to turbo a pinto first,+ i do like the pinto i think its a good engine to learn with
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 10:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
that cam looks worn lol. Anything with ANY marks on I would deem to be scrap tbh.
Esp on pintos, it seems the norm to replace the cam at very low intervals.
Shaun
the cam is new fr32 after i ran it in for the first time i looked at it and it looks the same now after my oil cock up
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delboy
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 10:20 AM |
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Have a look at this site, they are local to me , but carraige isn't too much, full 2.1 short motor for £540. They build a pretty decent engine,
a lot of the stock car guys use their bottom ends with heads built to the racers own spec. They use mahle pistons, vanderval bearings and arp rod
bolts with everything balanced. Seems like a goodand quick solution to me. They always have one built on the shelf ready for dispatch too.
http://www.jemengines.co.uk/8.html
[Edited on 21/6/09 by delboy]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 10:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
that cam looks worn lol.
No it doesnt. It looks almost new. I would look at the slight mark on the lobe though.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Peteff
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 11:06 AM |
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That cam looks perfect, 2 minutes on tickover is not going to do your engine any harm if it ran before with the oil pump connected. The oil
doesn't drain out of them and if it was rebuilt there would be the build up lube in them anyway. Stop procrastinating it isn't a big job
to look at the cam and a big end shell to see if it's scored.
The marks on that cam are just ridges in the oil film where the follower wipes, my old one had a 2mm gouge in no.4 piston lobes and still ran quite
happily (I did fit a new one though)
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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mediabloke
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 12:31 PM |
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Despite what certain oil manufacturers used to claim, I'm fairly sure very few engine parts ever run metal-to-metal without a film of oil
between them - even when cold. Anyone who's tried to separate big-end shells or strip hydraulic lifters can testify how much fun that is...
Surely the cylinder walls would be the most vulnerable, but would require the smallest amount of oil in the first place? I'd have thought that
dry / hydraulic'ed lifters would be the biggest source of noise but have the least impact...
But I can't claim to be an expert and would be interested to know what everyone thinks, too.
Francis
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 01:02 PM |
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I wouldn't worry about it, what's done is done. Use it for a few hundred miles and then check the came lobes for any further wear. Big
ends and mains will probably be ok if you weren't revving the engine hard when there was no oil pressure.
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prawnabie
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 01:58 PM |
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[quoteI would look at the slight mark on the lobe though.
Hence me saying it looks worn
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martinq357
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 02:19 PM |
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Pintos are sturdy old lumps and seem to be able to take no end of abuse.
That Cam Lobe looks pretty good to me. The Mains might have faired less well but if it's running well now with a healthy oil pressure, I'd
just run it for the summer (maybe not give it so much stick) and pop the sump off in the winter and check a couple of the shells then.
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gregs
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 02:21 PM |
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I've never had a Pinto cam without the marks... IMHO it is the difference between where the finger contacts the cam and where it doesn't.
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jpindy3
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 03:49 PM |
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ok ran it on the megajolt,a very good bit of kit,
but the oil presure droped after being at temp for a little bit,it has droped by 12psi,
it normaly is 6bar but now its 5bar,it has a high presue pump,
what do you think??
i think i have done a bearing
this is a f**king new engine im so mad
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mookaloid
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| posted on 21/6/09 at 05:10 PM |
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I don't think you have done major damage. The cam looks fine to me.
If you are worried about the mains and Big ends then you will have to pull the engine out, drop the sump off and check the bearings. If you do it soon
then you can pop a new set of shells in and it should be as good as new. If you leave it with worn shells for a period of time you risk damaging the
crank.
Even if you just leave it and you do end up damaging the crank then you are still only looking at a couple of hundred to put it right.
I would leave it and watch the oil pressure - it should be about 60 psi max and 20 psi or so on tickover. It will be higher on tickover when new so if
it has just dropped to 20 or so now then you have accelerated the running in process a little.
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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