shortie
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 07:49 PM |
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Zetec SE cooling
Anyone happen to know the OD of the Zetec SE cooling pipes??
i.e. one's too and from Rad and ones to and from heater??
TIA,
Rich.
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beaver34
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| posted on 21/10/09 at 05:55 PM |
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not of the top of my head, but i have a se in a shawspeed car, and have issues cooling, i would like to see how your doing it, if your still stuck i
can measure mine
thanks,
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shortie
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| posted on 21/10/09 at 07:58 PM |
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This is a diagram of how I am doing it.
Rich.
 
Zetec SE Cooling
[Edited on 21/10/09 by shortie]
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beaver34
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| posted on 21/10/09 at 08:53 PM |
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hmmm let me know how it works, mine is very similar to that,
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beaver34
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| posted on 22/10/09 at 08:27 PM |
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ill get some pics of mine for you,
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Ugg10
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 11:39 AM |
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Sorry to drag up an old thread but I am planning the install of my Zetec SE and I need a bit of help on coolant hoses.
The set up is - Puma 1.7 Zetec SE, Anglia Radiator (or similar) with top and bottom hose connectors and top filler cap with small bore hose connector
in neck. I am also going to install a slim rear water manifold with the standard rad and heater hose connectors (plus temp sensor port). I do not plan
to have an expansion tank if I can help it.
So, this is what I am planning to do, please can anyone confirm or correct this please?
Bottom rad hose to lare connector on thermostat oulet on inlet side of block
Top rad hose to large connector at rear of head
Based on the drawing above - small thermostat outlet on block to small connector at rear of head
That leave the filler neck small connector and the small connector in the exhaust side of the head - do I just connect these two together ?
Finally, what pressure radiator cap will I need ? Associated with this - any thoughts on using the waterless coolant that does not boil and so produce
pressure, also potentially reduces internal corrosion as it has no water in it, any one used this or have comments ?
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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beaver34
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 12:51 PM |
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i would do it like this
large thermostat housing to bottom rad hose but t into to feed the headertank feed in
large housing under coil pack to top rad hose
breather on head exhaust side into headtank breather
small outlet under coil fed heater, then out of heater unit into the thermostat small inlet, its important this is connected as it warms the
thermostat and makes sure it opens. if you do not use a heater still connect these but fit a restrictor in the pipe about 2mm otherwise its easier for
water to go that way than down the rad.
let me know if you need any pics of my setup
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Ugg10
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 01:41 PM |
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Many thanks Beaver 34 - any suggestion if I did not use a header tank ? What are the advantages of using one ?
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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D Beddows
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 02:37 PM |
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You have to have a header tank of some description somewhere! you're putting a modern engine in a Ford Anglia...... it's not going to be
original in any way shape or form so make life easy for yourself! (header tanks and expansion/overflow tanks AREN'T the same thing btw)
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Ugg10
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 03:10 PM |
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Thanks for the clarification, The radiator has a header tank integral to the top, I guess I am distingishing this from a separate expansion tank. The
standard mod is to fit the polo rad and header tank (had this in my Fisher Fury with no problems, used a nice cylindrical volvo tank) so will look
into this again.
[Edited on 10/6/14 by Ugg10]
[Edited on 10/6/14 by Ugg10]
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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nickm
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 06:31 PM |
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Hi
I did mine exactly the same as the diagram with a T connection fm the header tank to the radiator return.
The pipes are 32mm fm engine-radiator and return (polo rad) and 22mm for the bypass.
Nick M
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Ugg10
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 07:32 PM |
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Cheers for the info nickm, much appreciated. Good to see a Lincolnshire yellow belly on the forum, Boston is my birth town and I lived there until I
was 11, went to park board (nkw a car park) and tower road schools and the grammar school for just over a year. Still occasionally visit family.
[Edited on 10/6/14 by Ugg10]
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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Jenko
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 07:35 PM |
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I would say that unless you can get the top of the rad (i.e. the header tank section) at least as high as the head, then really you should go for a
heander tank....
The drawing detailed in the original post was exactly how I did mine and it seemed fine on the recent rolling road session.
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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beaver34
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 07:42 PM |
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i had issues bleeding mine with header tank feeding into top rad hose
also i have a bleed on rad that is capped off
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Ugg10
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| posted on 10/6/14 at 08:01 PM |
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Thanks all, looks like I need to find a small ally Rad with hose connection on the passenger side and a suitable header tank, used a volvo 740/960 one
before, will probaby mount it on the scuttle.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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nickm
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| posted on 11/6/14 at 08:03 PM |
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Hi
The smaller pipe which feeds the heater also helps to warm the engine up. When you start the engine up you will feel this pipe start to warm almost
immediatly once it gets to the operating temp the thermostat close/opens (does its thing !) and then allows coolant to flow to the radiator - this my
understanding of how it works fm the Haynes manual and holding the pipes. I may be wrong but once the engine is at operating temperature the heater
bypass becomes almost redundant.
Not a yellow=belly im afraid but its a quiet county with only 5km of dual carraigeway, who could ask for more. and Cadwell.
Nick M
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