norfolkluego
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:06 PM |
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The hole's too big!
Zetec is now in the Luego, went in easier than I thought (mainly due to the advice from here), but one real problem, a couple of the engine mount
holes on the block don't seem right for the M10 bolts I'm using. Bolt screws in OK but has a little play in it as it goes but when you try
to tighten up, it starts to tighten then slips, affects two of the holes out of seven, others tighten up correctly. Obviously the engine is not new so
the threads may have been damaged in the past. Any ideas of the best way to sort it, retap and bigger bolt maybe or are there self tapping bolts.
[Edited on 25/10/09 by norfolkluego]
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madrallysport
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:08 PM |
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If the block threads are damaged, best thing to do is take the engine out and get helli-calls fitted, most local engineering firms can fit them. It
basically gives you a brand new thread and are very strong
UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE is how far you take the wall with you.
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:09 PM |
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If the theads are gone and you want to use the M10 you could repair them using a Helicoil see
link
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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iank
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:18 PM |
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You can fit helicoils yourself
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:23 PM |
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Not bothered what bolt size I use but the Heli do-dah's sound expensive (and time consuming if the engine has to come out after a whole 24
hours)
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:33 PM |
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Interesting vid but if you're going to the trouble of retapping the hole anyway why use the insert, why not retap for a bigger bolt (may be a
dumb question but it's not obvious to me)
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BenB
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:34 PM |
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Can you tap JB weld? 
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steve m
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:34 PM |
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You can helicoil without taking the engine out, as long as you have some free area around the hole,
i did my crossflow engine mounts and exhaust studs with the engine in the car
fiddily but easy
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Humbug
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:36 PM |
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The vid was interesting to see how it was done, but with that amount of material round the hole, why not just tap out to the next size up?
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shaun fulcrum
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 07:45 PM |
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helicoils will be much stronger than a cut thread. Just my 2p
cut threads can be pulled out easier than rolled threads and helicoils are stronger than both.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 08:05 PM |
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Helicoil type repair gets my vote
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 08:24 PM |
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How much does the Helicoil cost?
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 08:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Interesting vid but if you're going to the trouble of retapping the hole anyway why use the insert, why not retap for a bigger bolt (may be a
dumb question but it's not obvious to me)
Because the fitting that you need to fit back on will have one size hole and it may not be possible to drill that out to the next size up
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iank
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 09:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
How much does the Helicoil cost?
M10x1.5 is £22 inc postage from the bay
linky
That's the genuine kit of tools and enough coils for 12 repairs. Can get cheaper non genuine kits, but I'd be cautious of a no-name
brand.
[Edited on 25/10/09 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 09:16 PM |
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The only thing going back on are the engine mounts and the holes/bolts in that can be sized to fit the holes in the block. I've got the drills
and taps necessary and the bolts I can buy easily, is there any reason not to retap, the Helicoil may the the better solution but this is Locost and
it's not the only bolt holding the engine in.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 09:17 PM |
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Depends how much material there is around the holes.
If there is enough I would just redrill and tap M12.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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StevieB
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| posted on 25/10/09 at 09:27 PM |
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I'd go with the helicoil just so that all your engine mounts are m10 - never underestimate how much of a PITA it is when one bolt is different
from all the others on the same component unnecessarily.
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mad4x4
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| posted on 26/10/09 at 07:07 AM |
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quote:
I'd go with the helicoil just so that all your engine mounts are m10 - never underestimate how much of a PITA it is when one bolt is different
from all the others on the same component unnecessarily.
Yes but some engines do already have different sized bolts for the mounts so no more PITA than normal.
It's an engine mount - drill and tap to M12
I agree with the helicoil answer but they are more for special bolts like Head bolts or manifold where you are limeted to the size of the bolt.
it'll be fine at M12.
[Edited on 26/1010/09 by mad4x4]
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 26/10/09 at 06:59 PM |
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Tapping it out and fitting a helicoil is a better bet than tapping for 12mm . If the 12mm strips what are you going to do then? at least in the
unlikely event of the helicoil failing you could then go to 12mm
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 26/10/09 at 07:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Not bothered what bolt size I use but the Heli do-dah's sound expensive (and time consuming if the engine has to come out after a whole 24
hours)
Do you have enough room to get a drill+drill bit into the hole to get it to the correct size for tapping?
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 26/10/09 at 10:49 PM |
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Had a look tonight, no chance of getting a drill + bit in there, could get a tap in no problem, but watching the Helicoil vid I'm going to have
to drill either way, looking like engine out, groan
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