02GF74
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 08:28 PM |
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it was going quite swimmingly ...
.... until I drop a head on to see if I can connect it to the radiator.
 no, cannot use existing thermsotat so would need to make a custom one, along the lines of this. (the hose will be one ofthese bump hoses to
allow some movement between engine and radiator.
unless someone can suggest an alternative.
 
Rescued attachment DSC05614.JPG
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 08:40 PM |
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is there room to put a swirl pot in the top hose somewhere away to one side? You might be able to do that and pretend its strictly for de-aerating the
coolant rather than sorting the routing??
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 08:48 PM |
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stick the standard one on the wrong way round then get a horseshoe hose to connect it.
or make an adapter plate in ali to match the bottom profile and tap it to take the stock one at the new angle
[Edited on 11-12-09 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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02GF74
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 08:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mangogrooveworkshop
stick the standard one on the wrong way round then get a horseshoe hose to connect it.
I'd like to see you try; 2 more photos to give you an ideas of the problem.
top view:
 
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02GF74
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 09:00 PM |
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and side view...
and cannot find hump hose in 32 mm size
 
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pewe
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 09:53 PM |
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Use the alternative mounting position for F27s i.e. mount the rad in front of the shocks then use long ali. or silicone tubing to the thermostat &
pump.
Depending on how tall the rad is you may want to angle it back slightly to fit in the nosecone (meant to improve cooling anyway). You then have the
rad nearer the front for better air-flow and a choice of push or pull electric thermo fan.
Cheers, Pewe 
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02GF74
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:04 PM |
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not possible - radiator will only fit there and even then I need to do some mods to the steering.
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Peteff
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:10 PM |
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What's a hump hose ? If you mean the all purpose ones with the ridges avoid them like the plague they crack on the thin bit when you put a bend
in them, mine only lasted months. I replaced them with metal bends and ordinary pipe and they never failed again.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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lsdweb
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:22 PM |
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I'm not sure if this would be any good?
Photo
It's a Fiesta thermostat housing (Burton's sell it I think)
Wyn
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Peteff
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:35 PM |
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You need a loop to take it away from the stat housing and come back round under itself to the radiator. I reckon you could make it from three nineties
and some pipe. There must be something on
here that will do the job for you, how much is it worth to get it connected. 
[Edited on 11/12/09 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Breaker
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| posted on 11/12/09 at 11:31 PM |
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try to fit something like this ?
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hicost blade
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 12:09 AM |
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What about a 99 transit thermostat housing mounted the wrong way round??
http://strictlyeuropeanparts.com/images/Ford%20Transit%20Thermostat%20Housing.gif
with a 135 or 180 hose
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omega0684
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 05:47 AM |
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what about a 135 degree bend
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 09:31 AM |
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Use spiral hose, but use some industrial srength one, i got it from abbey hose.
Darren
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 10:12 AM |
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keep the suggestion coming.
it's a pi%%er for sure, you try to save some money by buying £ 70 alloy rad instead of forking out £ 300+ for custom one then get probs like
this
hump hose:
purpose is to allow for road/engine vibrations which might otherwise damage your pipe network..... but smallest is 41 mm - I need 32 mm.
Don't forget that a rokcer cover sits there so that the thermostat cannot be pointed backwards.
I do have a special made 'stat whose outlet is parallel to the radiator but there is not quite enough room - I may need to look at shortening
the outlest of both the radiaotr and thermostat.
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steve m
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 10:20 AM |
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What's a hump hose ? If you mean the all purpose ones with the ridges avoid them like the plague they crack on the thin bit when you put a bend
in them, mine only lasted months. I replaced them with metal bends and ordinary pipe and they never failed again.
mine is still on the car and about 11 years old now so perhaps you got a bad one ?
looking at the original problem, as my car is a crossflow, i would put a loop in as suggested, or a swirl pot, is a good idea, perhaps the swirl pot
could also be the filler ??
The orginal idea of a cranked cardboard tube WILL not work, as for one it is to short, and will not give any movement between the engine and rad, this
would mean somthing willl break, and it would not be the short hose
or could the top hose on the rad be moverd to further away to at least give a decent bend ?
unless the rad is fixed to the engine ???
also your rad looks very big ? are you expecting cooling problems ?
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 10:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by steve m
What's a hump hose ? see above
The orginal idea of a cranked cardboard tube WILL not work, as for one it is to short, and will not give any movement between the engine and rad, this
would mean somthing willl break, and it would not be the short hose.
yep - that is my conclusion too, especially since I cannot find a hump hose of that size.
or could the top hose on the rad be moved to further away
that would work - it'll be more like the oringal mk2 rad.... but I cannot do that nor do I know if it can be done - the core on these
aluminium rads is "soldered" in, I imagine that the header tanks are welded before the core is fitted hence the heat of welding may result
n leaks..... but if the rad is filled with water up to the tank, then that should work.
also your rad looks very big ? are you expecting cooling problems ?
bloody hope not!! engine had cooked - I am going oever all the possible causes to eliminate this happening again, larger high performance
rad being one option.
[Edited on 12/12/09 by 02GF74]
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flibble
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 12:24 PM |
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Capri mk3 bottom hose might fit with a bit of manhandling, not sure if they're 32mm though I'd expect they are?
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pewe
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| posted on 12/12/09 at 07:52 PM |
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Why can't you mount it in front of the front vertical chassis rail?
Both live axle and IRS F27 build manuals show the inboard mounting as an alternative position to the recommended one at the front of the
chassis.
Have you altered the front layout?
Cheers, Pewe
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02GF74
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| posted on 13/12/09 at 02:18 PM |
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two alternatives are:
i. very front of nose cone - radiator too big.
ii. in front of the chassis rail - wish bones are welded to chunky angle iron that give lower to/fro adjustment (castor?) so bolt and anlgle iron edge
(this can be removd) mean radiator sits higher so won't go under the nosecone, plus the top outlet is right against the nose cone so won't
be possible to connect to that.
current thinking is to make thermostat with vertical outlet , take a 90 degree bend to it points back and then a Uey to connect to thermostat.
hosing is aloou plate with central hjole then a cut down hose joiner welded to it.
there just is enough room to get past the rocker cover.
[Edited on 13/12/09 by 02GF74]
 
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Willie
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| posted on 16/12/09 at 11:14 PM |
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On my locost I made a header tank here, so I would suggest you make a custom take-off.
Just get a lump of 1/4" steel plate to make the base plate, then buy a nice tight madrel bend and weld it on to come out at 90deg to your
radiator inlet (In plan), at the same height, then connect it with a 90deg hose.
Don't bodge it with hose, do it right and you'll be glad you did.
Willie
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