David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 03:39 PM |
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Nearly running properly - but not quite...
OK, I had another go at getting my engine to run today, seeing that it wasn't raining on a weekend for a change... 
First, the good news...
* It's a 1600 crossflow (total rebuild, GT spec)
* 32/36 DGV carb, totally stripped, cleaned and re-jetted according to Weber's instructions for this engine.
* Distributor's been stripped, cleaned, checked and rebuilt.
* Dwell and timing are correct.
* I have good oil pressure
* engine temp is sensible (around 80C)
...and the bad news...
* It runs, but doesn't really want to go above idle.
* Coughs, splutters and eventually stops with plugs all sooted up (not oily - 'dry sooty' ).
* Backfires through carb if I try to rev it when it doesn't want to.
As this was a total carb strip, clean & rebuild then I may have done something wrong - but I did try to follow the instructions, and I'm
pretty good with mechanical gubbins like this (Setting gaps, making adjustments, and so forth).
I do get the impression that once I sort whatever is wrong, it will really run well - it's almost there!
All suggestions (clean, preferably) will be gratefully accepted.
cheers,
David
[Edited on 24/4/04 by David Jenkins]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 04:45 PM |
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Hi David, check valve clearances GT setting may be different from standard cross flow, also check for the correct dwell angle and timing for your
distributor, seem to remember that ford changed the setting at some stage, depends on distributor number IIRC. Sounds like carb is set too rich,
possible flooding?? or incorrect jetting?? Rusty
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 06:26 PM |
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Rather than using a dwel meter get it running by setting the points gap ----- 21 to 25 thou if you have a Ford distributer set to 25 thou if using
new points and recheck after 20 minutes running. If you have a Bosch distributer set to 15 thou likewise Lucas distributers. If you have change the
dustributer has the new one the correct direction of rotation (ie; anti-clockwise)?
Because of the sooty plugs a prime suspect is the float chamber flooding --- check the float level and condition of float needle valve also what
type of fuel pump are you using ? --- if electric is it a type for a carb ? if it mechanical is the asbestos spacer fitted beteen the pump and bock?
Vavle clearances too tight will also cause the engine to fallter above idling.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 08:08 PM |
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By sheer fluke I set the points with feeler gauges, and it came out within spec on the dwell angle, so I'm right on both counts!
It's the standard distributor (bosch, I think)
After the last attempt at running I had given the head its final torque-down and reset the gaps, so they should be OK.
I'm using the standard mechanical pump (with insulating spacer).
I'm fairly sure it's a carb problem now - the float chamber sounds like a good (and easy) place to start.
cheers!
David
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 12:09 PM |
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Latest update: my float level was just about where it should be... 
...I might have a look at the quality of my spark, as it didn't look very consistent when I peered through the colortune window.
All further clues welcome!
David
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 12:51 PM |
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is the coil breaking down? Try the old trick of running with a plug grounded to the head (use a 5th plug and leave the disconnected one in the head in
case you ignite fuel vapour) and watch the spark directly. Could also be tracking in the dizzy cap.
atb
steve
[Edited on 29/4/04 by stephen_gusterson]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 01:15 PM |
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New cap, rotor, points & coil!
Doesn't mean that one of them isn't faulty, though...
DJ
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