Dick Axtell
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 posted on 17/5/04 at 07:32 AM |
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Xflow Strip
So now the xflow is on the stand, poised ready for dismantling. Have got the Wallage book & Haynes Mk2 Escort manual. Read thru both, and the
Burton power info.
For anyone out there who has actually done this before, what pitfalls to watch out for? Any recommended "dodges"?
Mr. Ashurst, I'm sure you've worked on your xflow. Any tips?
TIA - All advice welcomed
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 07:40 AM |
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I have done it, using those manuals.
No major pitfalls, and I found that the Wallage book was helpful when combined with a reasonable amount of basic mechanical sense.
The only 'catch' I found was the way the costs escalated! I suffered from the 'might as well put a new "whatever" in
while the thing's in pieces' syndrome. New gaskets, seals, timing chain, tensioner, etc. etc. plus rebore, new pistons, rings, unleaded
conversion... AARGHH!
David
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MikeR
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 11:51 AM |
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Hmm, would you mind posting the costs? I've got to rebuild an engine in the near future and am curious as to what sort of cost i'll be
looking at.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 12:04 PM |
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Too far back to help you, I'm afraid... 2 or 3 years ago (was it really that long ago? Gasp!) and I have no idea what the total was.
Sorry!
David
P.S. Burtons are a great place for small engine bits...
[Edited on 17/5/04 by David Jenkins]
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Dick Axtell
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 posted on 17/5/04 at 12:21 PM |
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COSTS!!!!!!!!!!
After reading thru Burton's brochure, tried to rack up some indicative costs.
I reckon just a simple re-work tots up like this : -
Lead-free head conversion - £100
New rocker shaft assy, spacers, steel posts etc. - £150
Top end gasket set - £20
So, by the time you add in any incidentals, you're looking at £300 just for the top end. Ouch!!
It appears that Burtons are marginally cheaper than Vulcan, for appropriate xflow parts - but not by much.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 01:11 PM |
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How much do you actually need to do?
I wasn't tuning the engine much (mainly better breathing) so I decided to re-use the rocker assembly, although I did check it over
thoroughly.
I paid roughly the same amount for the unleaded conversion work (at Scholars, between Ipswich & Norfolk).
Wait 'til you get to the bottom end!
David
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
How much do you actually need to do?
David - That's the supercritical question!
Won't find out 'til the strip-down is under way. So, it'll be head off first, and examine the bores & pistons for wear &
general condition. Whatever I find will affect any decision on the subsequent move.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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paulf
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 09:04 PM |
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Why pay out for an unleaded conversion? if you are only doing a small mileage then it would be better to use an additive and benefit from increased
octane rating as well.This is what I am doing and it means the timing can be set to the correct advance instead of having to retard it to prevent
pinking.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
COSTS!!!!!!!!!!
After reading thru Burton's brochure, tried to rack up some indicative costs.
I reckon just a simple re-work tots up like this : -
Lead-free head conversion - £100
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Dave Ashurst
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 10:57 PM |
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Dick,
You've seen the email I sent you tonight with engine spec.
Just to summarise; mine was built professionally. Although I've stripped it down for inspection and reassembled it since, as far as head off
& pistons out, I can't really advise much on practical engine building from personal experience.
BTW, if you are aiming to improve performance then have you considered an engine from Vulcan as a replacement, perhaps? Check out the specs and
prices on Vulcan's website for a complete engine, then work out how much it will cost to do the same yourself with parts bought separately. You
might want to get sva'd and registered on the original engine first though.
Also BTW I didn't bother getting the head converted to unleaded.
regards
Dave
[Edited on 17/5/04 by Dave Ashurst]
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Dave Ashurst
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| posted on 17/5/04 at 11:01 PM |
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PS don't forget to add VAT in your calcs
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/5/04 at 07:43 AM |
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Dick,
The sort of unexpected cost I came up against was new valve springs - one of those things that usually needs replacing (I don't suppose that the
original springs had been changed in the entire life of the donor!). Plus valve stem seals, and so on.
I only bought a few hard-to-get things from Burtons - most of the run-of-the-mill bits came from the local motor factors (timing chain, tensioner,
gaskets, etc.).
cheers,
David
[Edited on 18/5/04 by David Jenkins]
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DavidM
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| posted on 18/5/04 at 07:35 PM |
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Pitfall. In the Wallage book it recommends removing the oil gallery plugs to clean out the oilways. After you've done this PUT THEM BACK
STRAIGHT AWAY AND TIGHTEN THEM UP!! It's a bugger when the engine is rebuilt and you have to take the timing covers off again to tighten
them.
For info I had 1300 X-flow rebuilt professionally to standard spec but converted to unleaded. £526 + VAT, but was quoted much more elsewhere.
I stripped the engine and cleaned it and by the time I'd done all the work I decided it needed it would have cost nearly that for machining and
bits.
9 months on and not tried starting it yet though
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Robster
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| posted on 19/5/04 at 12:10 PM |
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DavidM, I you don't mind me asking, who did you take your Xflow to? I need to get one tuned to Locost race spec, and am getting quotes around
£1,000 + VAT. I know it is more work than you had done to yours, but it's worth the call in case they're cheaper.
Cheers,
Rob.
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ernie
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| posted on 19/5/04 at 01:13 PM |
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x/ flow engine
Paul, with regard to using leaded petrol & additives, what do u use and is it legal for racing ? ernie
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Dick Axtell
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 posted on 19/5/04 at 08:55 PM |
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Interesting Feedback
Thanks to the 3 Davids, and all respondents. There's a lot to mull over. Maybe I'll just do as Dave Ashurst suggested, and leave any
engine investment 'til after SVA.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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paulf
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| posted on 19/5/04 at 10:41 PM |
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I am using Millers VSP additive, it is a tried and tested make and i have had no problems in the past with engines run on it.It is the first time i
have used it in a crossflow but took the car out for some testing today and it ran well with no pinking using unleaded and additive.
I dont know if the racing rules would allow it as it is also an octane booster so could offer an advantage.I think there are some additives that only
replace the lead which may be allowed.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by ernie
Paul, with regard to using leaded petrol & additives, what do u use and is it legal for racing ? ernie
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MikeR
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| posted on 19/5/04 at 10:43 PM |
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Dick thats exactly what I'm doing, I know i've got a good engine and once its through sva i can have fun driving whilst i rebuild a spare.
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DavidM
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| posted on 20/5/04 at 10:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Robster
DavidM, I you don't mind me asking, who did you take your Xflow to? I need to get one tuned to Locost race spec, and am getting quotes around
£1,000 + VAT. I know it is more work than you had done to yours, but it's worth the call in case they're cheaper.
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob,
Lyndale Engines in Peterborough. They built mine to standard spec but they prep engines for Hot Rod (roundy round) racing, and sounded very
knowledgeable about the different tuning options for a crossflow.
Let me know if you need contact details and I'll dig them out.
David
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Robster
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| posted on 21/5/04 at 01:28 PM |
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Dave M,
Thanks, I have found Lyndale Engines
on yell.co.uk, but there is no website shown for them - do you know if they have one or if there is an e-mail address?
Cheers,
Rob.
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DavidM
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 10:25 PM |
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Don't think they have website or email address, but I seem to remember that they have an entry on the Trade Federation website. Society of
Engine Remanufacturers or something like that.
You will find they are very f**king down to f**king earth if you f**king know what I f**king mean.
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