RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:21 PM |
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no spark
Hi guys, well i took the day off to get the car started for the 1st time, and i seem to have two problems. 1st, the bike fuel pump keeps on pumping
petrol and it is pissing all over the floor.... from the bottom of the carbs. and the 2nd is i have no spark... i am running a mega jolt to 1.8 zetec
and using gs9r carbs. i am lost... i have filled the carbs with fuel and discounted the pump so i can work on the "no spark problem 1st.. i have
tested the cable going to coil pack and seems fine (but as i know nothing about how a coil pack works.....) Any help would be great. Thanks
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Mal
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:30 PM |
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Go to the ExtraEFI website and if you look you should be able to find a photo of a coil pack showing which is the 'A' and 'B'
spark connections on the 3 pin plug.
Please note that ExtraEFI is for Megasquirt, not Megajolt, but the picture is relevant to both.
HTH
Mal
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Mal
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:32 PM |
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Forgot to say that a common problem is getting the polarity of the VR sensor the wrong way round.
Mal
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vinny1275
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:34 PM |
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Are you getting any sparks at all? (If you take a plug out, put the lead on, hold it with something non-conductive, put the thread of the plug agains
the head / block and turn it over is anything happening?)
Where are you getting your spark trigger from? Are you using VR sensor / EDIS?
Cheers
Vince
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RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:45 PM |
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i am using a edis... and i am not getting any spark.. i have put a multimeter on the cable going to the coil pack and i get a voltage reading when i
test the middle pin and the ignition is on and a voltage reading for pin1&3 when i am trying to turn it over...
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:47 PM |
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The big mistake most of the time is reading the picture upside down/back to front, also check your earths i had a problem with this using MJ3 at
first.
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:48 PM |
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And another
 
Rescued attachment mjlj_3pinouts.png
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:52 PM |
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Other potential problem. Is wiring the megasquirt power feed to a connection on the ignition switch that isn't live whilst cranking.
Matt
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 02:56 PM |
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Also is the fuel pump matched to the carbs, ie is it a carb pump ?
My R1 carb pump stops under pressure,its self regulated which simpifies the fitment a bit. Bike carbs do not need a lot of pressure to work so if your
using another pump it would have to be regulated anyway.
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 03:08 PM |
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Reading through my old notes from when i fitted the zetec, i had a very intermittent spark problem which turned out to be a bad earth to the ECU MJ V3
unit.
Also remember they spark in pairs on the zetec 1-3 then 2-4 but only one cylinder sparks on inductuction as the other is a wasted spark and will fire
at the end of the exhaust stroke.
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RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 03:09 PM |
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Bob, can you repost the coil pack connector?
the pump came with the carbs and i was told that it was the right pump for the carbs, but i will check with the chap i got the carbs from
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vinny1275
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 03:10 PM |
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put your multimeter to AC, and put it on the VR sensor output - if you're not getting anything here, then EDIS won't be sparking, and
either the VR sensor is nadged, or the reader isn't close enough to the trigger wheel. If you're getting a reading, then try swapping the
VR leads over at the MJ end, it is easy to get them mixed up when looking at the diagrams.....
Good luck!
Vince
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RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 03:22 PM |
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i have connected the vr sensor cable to the crank sensor, is that right?
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 04:02 PM |
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I took this off a previous post as i thought it was already on another pic, but here goes.
 
Rescued attachment pot4.gif
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 04:17 PM |
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I'm sure you are looking at the shape of the edis plug and coil pack plug in the pictures put up to determine 1 to 12 and 1/2/3.
 
Rescued attachment 2010020320424481381megajolt.jpg
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 04:18 PM |
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I'll pop in the garage and see if i can see my coil pack wire colours .
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 04:32 PM |
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anyway to clear the coilpack plug wiring looking at engine from exhaust side GREEN/RED nearest engine BLACK in middle and GREEN/YELLOW bulkhead
side.
GREEN/YELLOW = coil B number 1 to number 12 and GREEN/RED = coil A number 3 to number 10.
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RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 04:45 PM |
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thanks chap for running around for me... i think that this may be above me, i may have to put a SOS call into members that live close to me, and see
if anyone can come around and shed some light on this problem. however i will look at the wire colours tomorrow night and let you guys know the
outcome. thanks guys
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bob
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 06:14 PM |
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Not to complicate things more but another point re the pump running on, are your carbs fitted with TPS throttle position sensor ?
I'm not sure how much of difference this will make if not wired or set up properly but might sort that problem.
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RMarine
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| posted on 6/7/10 at 07:03 PM |
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Bob, it does have a tps, but funny thing is that when you look on the lap top at the tps it says it open to 101%. that was my 3rd
problem.........
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RMarine
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| posted on 13/7/10 at 10:23 PM |
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right, i have realised that i had wired the edis connector up side down, i have now sorted that and it still isn't sparking Could i have
blown the edis unit or the coil pack by trying to start the car while the edis was wired up wrong??? also i have change the crank sensor and i am
still not getting a strong signal. any ideas?????
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scudderfish
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| posted on 14/7/10 at 06:17 AM |
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You're unlikely to have blown your EDIS. I managed to wire mine up wrong in all sorts of ways and I never killed it 
When you say you aren't getting a strong signal, how are you measuring it and what do you get?
Have you tried swapping the wires on the VR sensor?
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RMarine
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| posted on 14/7/10 at 05:07 PM |
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well, i have a multimeter 1.5v and i attach the probes to the pins in the edis connector and the reading goes from .000 to -.000 only when i 1st turn
the key does it move up to .009 for a spilt second and when i let go of the key it jumps up to .003 agian only for a split second....
[Edited on 14/7/10 by RMarine]
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scudderfish
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| posted on 14/7/10 at 05:14 PM |
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OK, starting with the basics, let's completely ignore the ECU/EDIS, only the VR sensor and the trigger wheel. Check the following :-
1) VR sensor is within 1mm of the trigger wheel. I used a B&Q receipt (v thin) folded in half and trapped between the VR sensor and wheel when I
clamped it up. That VR sensor has a few scratches on it where I got a bit too close to the trigger wheel
2) TW has to run across the centre of the sensor face. If the sensor is too far forward or back relative the the car, you will get a crap signal
3) If you draw a line along the length of the VR sensor, does it go through the centre of the trigger wheel?
If it is all lined up correctly you should see between 0.5-1v coming out of the sensor
4) Use a digital multimeter (for faster response) and set it to AC
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RMarine
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| posted on 14/7/10 at 05:18 PM |
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i am using the crank senor as the trigger wheel...is that right? and how do i set my multimeter to AC?
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