Markymark
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| posted on 3/9/10 at 01:01 PM |
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What grade Ali for adaptor plate?
As the title, what's the best grade Ali to make an adaptor plate out of? And the best place to buy it?
All bolts mounting plate to engine will have to be inset and the head depth is 10mm, so whats the min thickness I could get away with? (I was thinking
20mm, thinner would be great!)
Sorry for all the questions but I want to get this bit right
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 3/9/10 at 03:36 PM |
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Use countersunk bolts for mounting to engine instead of counterboring for hex/cap heads, then you can go with 12 or maybe even 10mm thick plate.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 3/9/10 at 08:45 PM |
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10mm plate the size you need is very expensive. 20mm would really cost.....
Doesnt the length of your input shaft dictate how thick you can go ?
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Markymark
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| posted on 5/9/10 at 09:51 AM |
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That is true to a degree, I can take upto 6mm off the front face of the bell housing if necessary.
I was hoping the people who have made adaptor plates, or had them made would post their specs to give me an indication as to where I need to be grade
and thickness wise.
There must be a minimum safe thickness as some of the gearbox bolts will screw directly into the adaptor.
If I could use 10mm with countersunk bolt, what grade would I need?
Thanks in advance
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Fred W B
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| posted on 5/9/10 at 04:19 PM |
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I used 16 mm 6082 T6 alloy. You can see some more detail in my old thread
HERE
Cheers
Fred W B
 
adpator plate
[Edited on 5/9/10 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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clairetoo
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| posted on 5/9/10 at 06:23 PM |
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I used 20mm for my first one , mainly because I had a big enough chunk just hanging around.......
Later ones I have made from 16mm , with the bolts threading in from both sides - on my V6 the spigot bearing is in the clutch , so any thickness will
work as the clutch needs to be moved anyway .
[img][/img]
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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