JeffJeffers
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 11:00 PM |
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Strugling to get my engine to fit.
Hi all.
I'm strugling to get my engine to fit in my chassis. I thought I would post a few pictures to see if anyone could tell me what I missing.
 
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In this picture you can see the alternator is hitting the front of the chassis. So I thoght I could move it all back.
 
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From this picture you can see the engine won't go any futher back. I thought I could maybe lower the enigne down. I would have to lower it by a
fair amount and it is already quite low.
 
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What am I missing?
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mookaloid
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 11:07 PM |
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You may need to re mount the alternator in a different position?
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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JeffJeffers
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 11:17 PM |
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The only other place to mount the alternator is the bottom corner on the other side of the engine. There isn't any more room there.
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 11:49 PM |
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Slightly off topic but you really should get the cam cover on that engine asap! 
As to the alternator, it's not a chassis I've worked on but you could get a smaller alternator or move the alternator back and fit a
custom pulley as a couple of ideas. What part of ther alternator is touching which rail? It is quite ok to grind away some alternator casing (as long
as you don't go to far of course).
Someone that knows the chassis might Know more than me of course!
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snapper
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 07:03 AM |
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If it is hitting the triangulation left of the bay as you look at tge top picture, I would cut it out and re weld it acbit further towards the
front.
Won't compromise stiffness at all.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 09:09 AM |
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Ditto ^ ^
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 09:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JeffJeffers
What am I missing?
A bike engine 
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Davegtst
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 09:47 AM |
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CBS do a very small alternator that might help.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 09:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snapper
If it is hitting the triangulation left of the bay as you look at tge top picture, I would cut it out and re weld it acbit further towards the
front.
Won't compromise stiffness at all.
Especially as the engine bay will already be very floppy due to the missing rear triangulation...
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 10:13 AM |
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Is the prop connected to the diff? It looks to me like the prop is way too far into the gearbox , there should be a bit of the "slider"
exposed . Photo of the gearbox mount likes like the box could go further back?
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 12:08 PM |
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except for the prop, which doesn't look quite right anyway as mentioned already, why can't it go any further back? i've seen the
block right back to the entrance of the tunnel on most cars on here
how much space is there between the alternator and chassis? a half inch should be enough anyway.
and which engine? if relocating the alternator is the only way, i'm sure its been done before, and there will be posts on here showing how its
been done
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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JeffJeffers
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 01:44 PM |
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It is a 2.0l Zetec. The alternator pulley is resting on the chassis. The only thing stopping it going futher back is the prop. I did think there
should be a bit of slider showing but I was just trying to see if I could get it all squeazed in the bay.
I'll have a drive out tomorrow, I think, top see one being built.
I do think a bike engine may have been the way to go now but I have to much money spent on the Zetec now.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 03:01 PM |
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Disconnect the prop, get the engine into the correct position and then measure from the back of the gearbox to the diff flange for the correct length
of propshaft. Probably not what you want to hear but it would seem that the prop is too long, You may be able to get it shortened but get it done
properly , there has been posts in the past about failed props
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Liam
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 07:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
If it is hitting the triangulation left of the bay as you look at tge top picture, I would cut it out and re weld it acbit further towards the
front.
Won't compromise stiffness at all.
Especially as the engine bay will already be very floppy due to the missing rear triangulation...
I noticed that! Are the manufacturers these days happy to have no 'R' tubes at all?! Not even the usual almost pointless short versions?
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lotusmadandy
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 08:13 PM |
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My alternator is in the same position as yours and i dont have any
issues with it touching the chassis,though it is a lot smaller than yours.
My engine is also further back in the bay.As already suggested your prop looks too long.
Andy
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stevegough
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 09:32 PM |
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Had absolute nightmares fitting my XE into my Luego Locost chassis - (not helped by the fact I wanted to fit it with the huge standard air intake
manifold) had a fair bit of chopping and moving chassis tubes - lots of photos showing this in my archives.
I'm thinking along the same lines as Mel (rusty nuts) - you need to go further back, and your prop is already up to the hilt. Suggest you get
the engine to fit, then get a prop 'properly' (sorry!) made (about 110 quid) to suit the set up. There are also alternatives (sorry
again!) to the standard alternator - Steve Lovelock fitted a small Daihatsu one to his XE engine - it can be moved to the other side, or further down.
Be very wary of lowering it any more - you will reduce your ground clearance - mine is only 2.75 inches - not good - speed bumps can be as much as 4
inches. You might also compromise your gearlever swing - already looks a bit low as it is.
Good luck - good idea to go and look at others!
Regards, Steve.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 09:10 AM |
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Another thing to take into consideration is being able to reach the gear lever when strapped in, with the engine that far forward you will stuggle
even with a gearlever remote
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ianclark1275
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 09:50 AM |
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print the photos and take it over to maltby to see them?
dont take more than 50 in cash in your pocket or you will buy stuff!
i would cut the triangulation out and make a new one which "bends" round the alt?
IC
measure twice, cut once, scrap it, start again.
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