karlak
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posted on 13/4/11 at 02:36 PM |
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Duratec and Clutch choice
You guys that have gone the Duratec route. Did you go for a cable clutch or hydraulic option?
I am trying to source the best deal on a Bellhousing and have been advised that a hydraulic clutch would be the best way to go. My current setup is a
Cable system.. Is this a huge job to change ?
I am hoping to get everything together to do a Pinto out and Duratec in, in a day.
MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2
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flak monkey
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posted on 13/4/11 at 03:06 PM |
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Hydraulic is a bit better, but for the milage these cars do it doesnt really matter.
RWD Motorsport do a cable clutch bellhousing....
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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James
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posted on 13/4/11 at 03:11 PM |
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Check out Flakmonkey's excellent thread (engine section) and his website. Loooooads of great info there on doing it all for a good price. (well,
till he got all excited by Caterham roller barrels and the like )
Cheers,
James
EDIT: Haha, Flak beat me to it!
[Edited on 13/4/11 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Tiger Super Six
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posted on 13/4/11 at 04:50 PM |
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I am doing this at the moment and have bought the RWD cable clutch bellhousing. I didn't want to hack my pedal box about (all 3 floor mounted on
one structure) if I didn't need to.
I then bought the Raceline flywheel and clutch setup but this does NOT work with the release bearing. The options are to find a longer release bearing
(but needs to be rounded not flat) or to move the pivot point out by changing the pivot pin. After a lot of research and mucking about nothing was a
practicle solution. The problem is due to the fact that the Raceline flywheel is drilled for rover parts, and the RWD is designed to use Pinto.
I have sent back the Raceline parts and now bought the flywheel from RWD as well, but then opted to buy the uprated AP pinto clutch rather than the
standard one they usually sell (given the power of the Duratec). Hopefully should all arrive Friday and I can see it all fits!
Hope that helps.
Mark
Tiger Avon
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big-vee-twin
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posted on 13/4/11 at 05:16 PM |
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I would agree with Flak Monkey but I always do as I have followed his guidance throughout my Duratec Build.
Here's a picture of mine Its a Titan Bell Housing, Titan Slave cylinder, SAAB style bearing from Titan, with a spacer behind the cylinder to
adjust its position closer to the clutch pressure plate depth depends on your set up and has to be measured, yes from Titan.
You will need to cut off the guide tube that the input shaft passes through to fit one.
I've used an AP racing HD Pinto friction plate.
An Heavy duty RS Turbo clutch pressure plate, as original good for about 130HP, this one good for about 250HP.
Had also to trim the length of the clutch plate fingers by 2-3 mm, all fits nicely together, but not yet got the engine in to test.
Duratec clutch cylinder
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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