mad-butcher
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 11:55 AM |
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Difficult job or not
Just been checking the Blade over and ended up having to take the nose cone off to investigate further, found a build up of water in the lip of my
radiator, dried it off and brought the engine up to working temperature (well let it warm up untill the fan kicked in to pressurise the system )
noticed an occassional drip from the mounting for the temp switch, the radiator is an MK modified one (no I'm not slagging MK off this rad is
over 5 years old ) The mounting for the temp switch is a brass nut about 6 mm thick soldered to the rad top,
question. would it be an easy job to re-solder the nut in place, given the heat required to warm the nut in comparison to the surrounding brass,
I'm worried about melting the solder were the top attatches to the core, also what grade solder would you suggest using. ie ordinary plumbing
[img]
 
Radiator leak
[/img]
many thanks
tony
[Edited on 18/5/11 by mad-butcher]
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 12:13 PM |
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Why don't you braze it? If you get the torch up to a good pin-point flame yu should be able to spot braze a bit at a time.
Or you could wait for the experts to come along and give you a good answer 
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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afj
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 12:26 PM |
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quick and easy way is to mix up a bit of 2 part epoxy like araldite and put a smear around the join
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 12:47 PM |
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JB weld might be the easiest (similar to epoxy)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 02:39 PM |
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Traditional radiators were assembled with different grades of solder starting with higher melting point solder and working down to a low melting
point solder for the later stages.
Any attempt a brazing would melt not only the soldered joints but the brass the radiator is made from low melting point radiator repair solder is
what is required, with all the silly EU regs on lead solder don't know who sells it.
Any commercial radiator shop should be able to run solder into it for you.
[Edited on 18/5/11 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mookaloid
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 02:50 PM |
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I have successfully repaired a radiator like that with plumbers solder and flux. I did it in situ with water in the radiator up to just above the
level of the soldering between the tank and the core which protected it from melting whilst the soldering above was carried out above the water
level.
Or do as BT says take it to a specialist who probably will only charge a tenner.
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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johny p
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 05:36 PM |
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2 words... QUICK STEEL!!!!
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 05:37 PM |
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Easy to fix, take off the rad, lay it on its back and clean the area very well, then just flux and plumbers solder, just get it hot enough for the
solder to flow and work into the area, get it to hot and the solder will drip away.
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stevegough
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 06:49 PM |
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or you could use an egg!
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 18/5/11 at 08:26 PM |
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well it won't be the first and certainly not the last time I've used that method to get me home
tony
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