Tris
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| posted on 19/6/11 at 07:51 PM |
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almumium soldering to copper wire ?
Evening all,
The wire to my Air inlet temp sensor on my ZX12r A1 engine broke this afternoon, causing the ECU to start displaying a fault code (as expected).
Easy fix i thought, just cut back and resolder. Problem is that this wire coming out of the temp sensor will not take any normal lead solder, even
with extra flux. I therefore 'think' it might be Aluminium wire.
Does anyone know how i can best solder a new piece of standard copper wire onto this ?
Cheers
Tris
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 19/6/11 at 08:03 PM |
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Or it could be nickel plated copper, which is also a pig to solder.
Try scaping the wire and have a go at resoldering it.
If it is aluminium wire, then you need the correct flux to be able to tin it.
HTH.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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MikeR
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| posted on 19/6/11 at 08:04 PM |
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Could technoweld type stuff do the job - not tried it, just wanted to mention it so you could look into it.
If there is a stub of wire could you attach a crimp?
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Tris
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| posted on 19/6/11 at 08:15 PM |
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The wire thats left sticking out of the sensor is only about 8mm long, so its difficult although not imposable to crimp.
Ive just found some techno-weld in the garage, so i could try that next - if not then i guess its a new sensor.
Cheers
Trus
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RazMan
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| posted on 20/6/11 at 06:56 AM |
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Ally wire is usually too fragile to do anything with and I think it is more likely to be stainless (like Lambda sensor wires)
Crimping would be my choice
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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wilkingj
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| posted on 20/6/11 at 09:15 AM |
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If its Ally, and you crimp it, Clean it thouroughly imediately before crimping. Then cover withPetroleum Jelly (Vasseline) over the freshly cleaned
part, IMEDIATELY, do not wait for the oxide to form which happens very very quickly.
The crimp on your crimp, if you can find a crimp with serrated surfaces they are the best for an Ally connection.
You can Buy alluminium solder, it does exist, I have seen it, and used it many years ago. If diffrerent to lead / tin solder which is used on copper
wire. Came from "Multicore"
I got a sample from them when I was at BT many years ago, just found the packet!..
Dont know if this is current info or if it helps.,
Its called Alusol ( 45D was ther alloy composition) and it was 2.0mm dia
Multicore Solders Ltd
Kelsey House
Wood Lane End
Hemel Hempstead
Herts
HP2 4RQ
Tel 01442 233233
Many years ago BT developed a jointing technique for alluminium cables, instead of the traditional coper ones. ie trying to save money.
The jointing was the sticking point. In the end they used serrated crimps filled with Petroleum Jelly.
ie you slide the wire into the jelly filled crimp, and then crimped up. This allowed the serrated part to pierce the wire, whilst no air being present
at point of crimping due to the P-Jelly. This preventing the oxide layer from forming. These Oxide layers form almost imediately the freshly cut /
crimped is exposed to the air.
Afer a lot of years they abandoned Alluminium cable as it was just not as good as copper. Of course its all going to be glass cables from now on.
(Fibre Optics).
Just a bit of useless info for anyone trying to do alluminium jointing.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/6/11 at 09:33 AM |
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I remember Alusol from my BT days! Even that was difficult to use - everything had to be perfect for it to work.
(Alusol link). Expensive for 1 metre of solder!
I remember a technique for using ordinary solder on aluminium: this involved cleaning the surface vigorously, then applying a hot iron and the solder,
then 'scrubbing' the joint with the tip of the iron to get through the oxide. I only managed to get this to work once or twice, and it
wasn't a strong joint (but electrically OK).
I'd be surprised if it was aluminium on an engine sensor, as that metal is very prone to vibration cracking (er - but maybe that's why it
went in the first place!  )
I think your best bet is to get the sensor wire tinned first - once you've got a good covering of solder then attaching the loom wire will be a
doddle.
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