Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Mk1 MR2 Hubs
ChrisJLW

posted on 29/7/04 at 08:31 AM Reply With Quote
Mk1 MR2 Hubs

Anyone used the hubs off a Mk1 MR2 for their Locost build?

Thinking about suspension fitment more than anything, would they convert relatively easily to the double wishbone specified in Rons book or would it require some pretty serious chopping and welding.





I've lived a life that's full.
I've traveled each and ev'ry highway.
But more, much more than this,
I did it side-ah-ways.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
MonkeyHunter

posted on 29/7/04 at 08:45 AM Reply With Quote
Hi, Im using them on my Mid Engine build, I havent got as far as building the chassis/wishbones yet; but the bottom ball joints attach to the hubs, and you would need to fabricate something to bolt to the top of the upright as it mounts directly to the shock on an MR2. There are some pics on Allan B's Site (http://www.desicodesign.com/meerkat/Donor%20parts.htm) if you want any specific pics/measurements, U2U me, i have the hubs kicking arround at home.

[Edited on 29/7/04 by MonkeyHunter]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
sgraber

posted on 30/7/04 at 04:18 AM Reply With Quote
You will need to make an upper balljoint to strut adapter. The balljoint being used is an early 80's AMC Eagle upper front. This was when AMC and Renault were buddy-buddy so you may find a Renault part that works but I can't verify that. I do know that the old Formula fords were doing something similar some years ago so it is a tried and proven method.

Alan B. (Meerkat) really paved the way for me to do this suspension. He custom made his adapters of plate steel (Lots of great photos on his website). I made mine by cutting the original MR2 Macphereson strut tube down and welding a plate to the top of it. The balljoint bolts to this plate.

Some people would say that the MR2 Hub/lower balljoint is strong enough to support the weight of the car from the lower balljoint like a standard locost suspension. Fearing serious injury or death, I made the decision to use a pullrod attached to the upper arm so that the weight of the car is routed into the hub like it was designed for. I would rather not find out under what stress the lower BJ breaks, because it would probably be at a very critical moment....

Here is a photo of my Adapter.


And a photo of how it all fits together



Graber





Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/

"Quickness through lightness"

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
ChrisJLW

posted on 30/7/04 at 07:43 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers Monkeyhunter & Graber, that's another set of bits I can use off my old Mk1 MR2. I've got a really nice set of lightweight (if somewhat battered) alloys that I can use off it as well.





I've lived a life that's full.
I've traveled each and ev'ry highway.
But more, much more than this,
I did it side-ah-ways.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Rob Lane

posted on 30/7/04 at 08:41 AM Reply With Quote
I think both of the above are describing mid engine cars where they are designing the steering to suit.

Do the hubs have a steering arm at the front of hub as Cortina, this will fit a standard Locost.

Just a thought.

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
ChrisJLW

posted on 30/7/04 at 09:06 AM Reply With Quote
Steering arms are at the rear of the hubs, will have to have a play once I've got them off the car.

Don't suppose I could use the left hub on the right side and visa-versa





I've lived a life that's full.
I've traveled each and ev'ry highway.
But more, much more than this,
I did it side-ah-ways.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
sgraber

posted on 30/7/04 at 03:11 PM Reply With Quote
Steering arms are indeed at the back. Sorry I didn't realize the question was posed for a standard Locost build. (Must practice reading comprehension...) IMHO using the MR2 hubs in ths scenario leaves you with 2 options. Make it a BEC or Rotary powered car because these engines are shorter and fit further back, or move the engine to the back and build a... wait for it.... MIDDY!!!!! Yeaahhhhh!

Bet you can't guess which option I would choose... LOL

Graber





Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/

"Quickness through lightness"

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
ChrisJLW

posted on 2/8/04 at 08:39 AM Reply With Quote
Well I have been toying with the idea of a Stryker 2 kit, but my neighbour has all the steel for a Locost chassis ready cut in his shed. I think he only wants about £70 for it.





I've lived a life that's full.
I've traveled each and ev'ry highway.
But more, much more than this,
I did it side-ah-ways.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.