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Author: Subject: Potential Overheating Problems
mcg

posted on 21/11/11 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
Potential Overheating Problems

Did my first track day on the weekend, and had a great time. I am hooked already!

We spent 90% of the day setting up the carbs, tinkering and problem solving. We are far from there yet, but managed to get some laps in anger in which left me gagging for more!

Embarisingly, I had the plugs for cylinders 1 and 4 in the wrong order which meant that to begin with we were running on 2 cylinders! So for the sighting laps we had a bit of a caravan on a country road thing going on with a nice queue of traffic behind us! I got the firing order right, but not the direction that the rotor arm rotates so had 1 and 4 the wrong way! Live and learn eh but sorted now!

When we did get going the power was great and very satisfying. However, we found that after 2 laps, we lost power, unfortunately a bit too far from the pits to coast in. So I got to experience the tow truck for the first time as well!

Between conking out on track, and the pits, there was about 10 minutes, and the car started 1st time back in the pits, which made us think there was an over heating issue. One of the fellow track goers suggested maybe the coil was over heating as we had it mounted to the engine, facing the back of the car, and therefore in the shade from cool air.

So we moved the coil to the scuttle with better air flow. We didnt get many laps in after that as the closed for the day so havnt been able to fully test that theory. However, in the meantime I wondered if anyone had any other suggestions of what may have caused that issue that I may be able to address before the next track day this weekend?

I am running an 8v vauxhal engine with fireblade carbs. Standard points ignition with airbox. Fuel pressure regulator set at 2.

Carbs running rich at WOT.





Thanks in advance

matt

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MkIndy7

posted on 21/11/11 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got a vent on the fuel tank?

The fuel tank could have Vaccumed after a few laps of fuel were used then slowly equalised in pressure while you were stopped.

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rusty nuts

posted on 21/11/11 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
Try removing the temperature sensor when filling to get rid of any air in the system, make sure all air going into the air intake for the rad is actually going through the rad using ducting if needed. Ignition timing needs to be correct , make sure the auto advance is working correctly as well. If that doesn't sort it try a new thermostat to be on the safe side. Water Wetter will drop the coolant temperature bby as much as 20 deg as a last resort
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britishtrident

posted on 21/11/11 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
I agree first check the fuel tank is venting and not building up a vacuum

Other suspect could fuel vaporisation.

Re the coil is it wired as it was on the donor --- not a Vauxxhall person but even with electronic dizzies some ignition systems need a ballast resistor or the coil over heats.





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dray13dad

posted on 21/11/11 at 08:45 PM Reply With Quote
Note from your you moved the coil and the amp to bulk head,have you made up and earth to both fixings,secound point yrs ago had a car that was overheating (coolant) took a long time to find but was coolant hoses as a were flexible like yours and not smooth on the inside which made a vortex effect so trapping air and slowing water flow.maybe a train of thourght for you
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mcg

posted on 21/11/11 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replies.

I do have a vent valve on the fuel tank. I checked that it was allowing air in but will check again.

Ignition timing is close but I need to get an adjustable timing gun on it to get it spot on. How do I check the vac advance is working?

I think water temps were not to high. Fan has not even come on yet and its on a 89 degree switch. I will check though. What are the symptoms of an over hot engine out of interest?

What is fuel vapourisation? anything I can do to stop it?

What's a ballast resistor, where can I get one for my set up? Is it a good fail safe to be sure?

Coil and amp definitely earthed. I think those ridged flex hoses are smooth on the inside but I will check.

Thanks again.

Matt

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