AdrianH
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| posted on 25/11/11 at 08:25 PM |
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Any type 9 gearboix experts on here?
Reminded by the previous post http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=163254 about the gearboxes I thought I would ask about mine
and a problem I have.
It jumps out of 1st gear on over run i.e. road wheels driving the engine.
The gearbox is a mod'ed standard type 9 with long first with the E2 gear set from BGH. I bought just the gear set and had the box rebuilt
locally.
I used it on a few Autosolo's and it was during one of these events the fault developed, as they are normally 1st gear runs I guess something
has given way, but not sure what.
Gear changes are quite smooth still in all gears, once warmed up and for road use is not an issue.
I checked the oil I have used and perhaps going off previous post it is the wrong type, but was all I could get at the time, being Comma EP80W GL5.
The can says high quality mineral based Extreme pressure gear oil use in cars, trucks when ever a Gl-5, 80W, 85W, 90 or 85W-90 product is
specified.
The old Sierra book says SAE 80EP to ford spec ESD-M2C 175-A Duckhams Hypoid 75W/90S
I found this on the internet about GL-4 and GL-5 http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf backing up a comment in the previous post, so now
wondering if I have broken a syncro ring because of the oil choice.
Looks like gearbox out anyway and standard box in over weekend if I can and I need some more oil.
Adrian
[Edited on 25-11-11 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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snapper
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| posted on 25/11/11 at 09:02 PM |
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Baulk rings and inserts, stronger on first and second but you cane it in first then fast shift to second.
GL5 eats the yellow metal so it probably needs a rebuild.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/11/11 at 09:40 PM |
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As above
BUT with the type of use I am wondering if a selector fork could be bent also before doing anything major it might be worth checking the detent
balls and springs.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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AdrianH
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| posted on 25/11/11 at 10:03 PM |
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I must admit I did think about what was holding it in first, when warm it goes in very easy and wondered if there was enough tension on the spring,
but just not worked out from the pictures where the ball/spring is for 1st?
I could drain the oil from the top and refill, I guess I have done around 2000 miles on the gl-5 oil and doubt it would have a lot of wear after such
a low mileage on the wrong oil.
Adrian
Think I have found it just one pin and spring behind allen head grub screw in main casing. I can always check it is done up OK.
[Edited on 25-11-11 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/11/11 at 10:34 PM |
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Wrong oil more a corrosion/erosion issue not wear.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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AdrianH
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| posted on 27/11/11 at 09:24 PM |
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What a weekend!
I decided I must do something about it so Saturday the engine and box came out. I drained the old oil from the replacement standard gearbox and
filled with Comma EP 75W/90 GL4 clear oil. Last job on Sunday morning was to refit the clutch cable, then the engine came back out as I had put the
clutch arm on back to front!!
I have not drained the other box yet and could perhaps have now found the jumping out of first problem.
The grub screw that holds the selector pin and spring was loose and just proud of the main casing, on the standard box it was screwed down tight with
approx 1/4 further in the case.
I guess I have to get the box stripped and checked now, just for my peace of mind.
Anyone know any good gearbox re-builders in the North West, not sure if I have the space to do this or the patience.
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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